Friday 21st November
Oyster Bay – Nowra – Tarrago – Bungendore – Cooma
After not having the bike for 9 weeks, following the
mysterious sheep incident, and having missed a planned trip in October, I
managed to squeeze in a 4 day weekend from Friday 21st November to
Monday 24th November. The same time last year I had a 4 day trip to
the Snowy Mountains and enjoyed it immensely. I couldn’t think of anywhere
better to go this time.
On the Friday morning I packed up the bike. This was my
first chance to use the panniers and top box on the new bike and they worked
beautifully. They all locked on to the bike with a minimum of fuss and allowed
plenty of room for the essentials.
I headed straight down the freeway to Wollongong and then to
Nowra. That’s the boring part out of the way. I had planned to stop in Nowra,
but I was travelling so well that I decided to keep going. From Nowra headed
south west on Braidwood Rd to Nerriga, which is a pub and a few houses. From
there I continued on Nerriga Rd, then Oallen Ford Rd, Sandy Point Rd and then
Cullulla Rd into Tarrago. These roads cover some very isolated country with
very few signs of habitation. A very interesting part of the country with
changing landscapes and vegetation.
Again I decided against stopping in Tarrago and went
straight on to Bungendore for petrol and lunch. That was a trip of 300 Kms non
stop which I probably would not have done on previous bikes. The one trick that
the Honda has is the ability to stand up while riding the bike. This takes the
pressure off your backside and stretches the legs and then you are good for
another 45 minutes or so before the stand up.
It makes an enormous difference. Lunch at the Blind Duck Café.
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Lunch at Bungendore |
From Bungendore, through Queanbeyan and down to Cooma. 130Km
and I got to Cooma about 2.30pm which was earlier than expected. I like Cooma
and the last couple of times I have been there I have stayed at the Nebula
Motel in the middle of the town. The Nebula was booked out this weekend due to
some car racing in Cooma that weekend. I finished at the Greenleigh Motel at
the top of the main street. Close enough to the action. A shower and change, a
few beers at the pub followed by dinner at the Two Vaults Restaurant ( an old
bank) and an early night.
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Evening in Cooma |
Saturday 22nd November
Cooma – Adaminaby –Cabramurra – Khancoban – Thredbo –
Jindabyne
Got away from Cooma about 8.30 on a beautiful Saturday
morning and headed for Adaminaby. This day is the piece de resistance of this
trip. A full circle around Kosciusko National park. Cooma to Adaminaby starts
with lots of of long straight roads through rolling hills, very few trees and
very few dwellings. Very tempting to go a bit faster than the speed limit.
Although I am a lot more wary of stray wildlife than I used to be. Towards
Adaminaby the road goes over a few higher hills and deeper valleys and gets a
bit windy. Stopped in Adaminaby for a coffee and a quick look around town. A
few other bike riders were there doing the same. I continued along Snowy Mountains Highway
until the left turn into Link Road which takes you into the National Park. The
countryside becomes particularly alpine from here on and the road gets a little
narrower.
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The big Trout and I - Adaminaby |
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Adaminaby shops |
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Mining memorial - Link road - Entrance to National Park |
First stop is Cabramurra, Australia’s highest permanent
settlement. It was built for the workers of the snowy Scheme. I stopped and
tried to get into the café but it looked like everything was closed for the
day, if not for summer. From here on the road becomes very dramatic. Steep
climbs, tight corners and magnificent views. You cross the dam walls of Tumut pond and Tooma Reservoir, both part of
the Snowy Scheme. This ride is non-stop fabulous scenery and I could do it
every week and tire of it. The only tricky bit here was passing other bike
riders going the opposite direction and hoping they were keeping to their side
of the road and rounded blind corners.
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Cabramurra |
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Tumut Pond |
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Above Tumut Pond |
I had a stop at one of the old cabins along then away and
again at a small picnic area beside a beautiful mountain stream. I had a close
encounter with a wallaby who decided it was imperative he cross the road before
I passed, but fortunately I was not going fast and had plenty of time to watch
him pass.
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Skiers Cabin |
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Picnic Area |
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Between Cabramurra and Khancoban |
Eventually there is a long downhill section with the country
opening ip on both sides on the approach to Khancoban. I stopped here for lunch
and petrol. Many more bike riders in groups going through the town.
From Khancoban you start o climb steeply again along the
Alpine Way, Still in the National Park and heading towards Mt Kosciusko. When I
came to a camp area called Tom Groggins I pulled off and stopped at the camp
area. This is the far South West corner of the National Park and it is right on
the Murray River, which is still a stream at this point. The other side of the
stream is Victoria.
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Tom Groggins Camping Area - Murray River - Victoria on the other side |
At the top of the climb I stopped at Dead Horse Gap for the
obligatory photos and then continued on for a quick tour through Thredbo, which
really was quite busy for this time of the year.
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Dead Horse Gap looking towards Thredbo |
As I was making very good time I took a trip up to Smigin
Holes and Perisher Valley which I had never been to before. Both towns were
deserted. Could not even find a café open in either of them. There was still
abit of snow around the peaks though and the road up was very enjoyable.
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Thredbo |
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Snow at Perisher |
Back to Jindabyne for
the night at the Rydges Snow Mountains
Resort where I have stayed a few times before. Self contained. Accommodation,
bar, restaurant. Very convenient.
Sunday 23rd November
Jindabyne – Dalgety – Bombala – Pambula – Tathra – Bermagui
– Tilba Tilba – Narooma
I love the road from Dalgety to Bombala. Rolling hills and
valleys with not a tree in sight as far as the eye can see. The big difference
this time was a row of wind turbines that seemed to go on to the horizon. The
road went right through the middle of them which meant you go quite close to
the turbines on either side of the road. You have to get close to these things
to realise just how big they are.
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Turbines on the horizon |
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Up close and personal |
Coffee in Bombala and a chat to a couple of riders heading
back to Victoria. Mt Darrah Road through Cathcart and Wyndham goes through changing
scenery, over a mountain and then down into opening farm lands as you approach
the coast. Beautiful. A stop in Pambula for more coffee and then along the
coast through Merrimbula and up to Tathra. A stop at the famous Tathra Wharf
for lunch. A beautiful spot on a beautiful sunny day.
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At Tathra Wharf |
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Looking out from the Wharf Cafe |
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From the Wharf |
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Tathra Wharf |
From Tathra I continued along the coast to Bermagui. I have
done this section a few times now and always enjoy it. Every now and then you
come around a corner or over a hill to be met with a glorious view of the
ocean. There are also a number of long bridges of the mouths of rivers and
creeks. I went straight through Bermagui which is a very picturesque town with its
harbour and fishing fleet. I was making good time again so I went in to Tilba
Tilba in search of coffee and a scone, which I found and enjoyed.
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Tilba Tilba |
From Tilba Tilba it is a short hop on to Narooma. The last
time I did this trip I went on to Moruya and found very limited accommodation options.
Narooma on the other hand has a lot of Motels and I found one in the middle of
town with easy walking distance to pubs and restaurants, which I took full
advantage of.
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Narooma |
Monday 24th November
Narooma – Moruya - Batemans Bay – Milton – Nowra - Burrawang
- Oyster Bay
Woke to rain on Monday morning. It didn’t seem to want to
stop so I loaded up and headed north. The rain didn’t last long. After about an
hour it cleared up and I didn’t see any more til after I got home. Familiar
territory along this road. A stop for coffee at Milton and then on to Nowra.
Instead of the usually slow trip from Nowra through to Kiama I went through Kangaroo
Valley and stopped at the Burrawang Hotel for Lunch and then went around the
back of Mittagong, through Wilton and Appin and home. I got back about 3pm.
About 1 hour before a very dramatic thunderstorm with lots of very close
lightning. That’s called good timing.
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Burrawang Hotel |
All in all 1,400 km in 4 days and some of the
best motorbike roads in the country