Saturday 25/07/15
Sydney, Katoomba, Lithgow, Rylstone, Mudgee,
320 km
I had the opportunity to take a week off at fairly short
notice and grabbed it. Unfortunately, the week before I was due to go, NSW
suffered it's coolest weather for many years. One week before I crossed the
mountains, the road was closed with heavy snow and ice. I wasn't sure until the
last minute that I would be able to go. On the day, a bright blue sky presented
itself. I left Sydney on a temperature of about 14c. At Blackheath it was down
to 10c and by the time I got to Mudgee it was 14c. I was well prepared and the
temperature never posed a problem.
I stopped at Rylstone at about 12.30, lunch time
coincidentally, and went to the famous Rylstone yum cha. It was just as good as
I remembered it. Set menu of 8 different dumplings and choice of tea was
perfect for lunch and I sat in the back courtyard in the sun. The place was
quite busy. Rylstone pub had the usual 20 or so motorbikes parked out the front
which I have seen every time I have stopped there.
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| The Yum Cha courtyard at Rylestone |
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| Lunch |
I got into Mudgee bout 2.30, checked in and collapsed for
a while and read the paper. A long shower and I wandered down to the Brewery.
Last time I was here there was a wedding reception and I couldn't get in. Nice
and quiet this time. I was able to sample several of their fine brews before
wandering out looking for dinner. My preferred destination, Esther and Albys
wine bar, was closed for a private function. I went instead to the Wineglass
grill and had Duck Breast with glazed cherries and gingered baby turnips, which was excellent, washed down
with a glass of 2 different local whites. Perfect.
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| Scenes from Mudgee |
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| Mudgee Brewery |
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| At the bar. Mudgee Brewery |
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| Dinner at Mudgee |
It was a cold start the next day, about 6c when I went
down town for breakfast at the Market Street cafe for outstanding coffee, local
bacon and eggs. I left town about 9am and it was 12c. On reflecting on my time
in Mudgee I realised that between beers in the brewery, dinner at the Wineglass
and breakfast at Market Street, I never saw a person over the age of about 25
working in any of those establishments. Obviously the grown-ups are doing well
enough to stay at home and let the kids run the place.
Sunday 26/07/15
Mudgee, Gulgong, Dunedoo, Mendooran, Binnaway, Narrabri,
Moree, Goondiwindi.
540 Kms
A cool start leaving Mudgee, but a beautiful blue sky. I
was well prepared with clothing and the cold was not a problem. I stopped in
Binnaway for a quick photo for a friend then petrol in Coonabarabran. On to
Narrabri and a stop for lunch. Wandering around Narrabri looking for coffee and
lunch, I suddenly realised that stopping in Mudgee first made everywhere else
look ordinary. In Mudgee you have a choice of nice cafes, pubs or breweries,
restaurants etc. In Narrabri I was reduced to eating in Subway with a bottle of
water. How disappointing. On to Moree for some more petrol and then the last
leg to Goondiwindi. Good roads out here. 110 Kph speed limits on most of them
with plenty of long straights for overtaking. A bit dull, but no stress. Everything looking
nice and green here and all the creeks and rivers seemed to have some water in
them. Must have had some decent rain.
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| Binnaway CBD |
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| Narrabri |
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| Scenes of Goondiwindi |
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| Chinese Restaurant, Goondiwindi |
Monday 27th July
Goondiwindi, Warwick, Beaudesert, Kyogle, Casino
490 kms
I opted for breakfast in the motel room after having
looked around Goondiwindi. Toast and serial. It was make your own instant
coffee in the room. So I had a cup of tea.
I left town about 9am and headed to Inglewood to refuel.
Nice country. Lots of crops and cows. Quite a bit of water lying about. Not
sure it was from rain or irrigation. Everything looked green.
I had a stop in Warwick for some real coffee. 2 quick
cups and I perked up. Warwick is a nice old town. I had a night there last time
I was in Queensland. My plan was to get to Beaudesert and spend the night
there, but I was making such good time I was in Beaudesert by 1pm. It did not look
like the type of town I wanted to spend a whole afternoon and night in, so I
decided to keep going to Kyogle.
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| Warwick. I love a parking spot right in front of a coffee shop. |
I took Mt Lindsay Highway that went over Mt Lindsay and
was a great ride. Some places got very windy and narrow, but the road was very good and great scenery. Very
little traffic. I crossed the QLD/NSW border along this road and then turned
onto Summerland Way to go down to Kyogle. This section into Kyogle was a
highlight of the whole trip. A beautiful winding road down the mountainside to
begin with then opening out into wide green valleys of stunning countryside
with lots dairy cows staring languidly as I passed, not in the least bit
perturbed.
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| Mt Lindsay |
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| Mt Lindsay Hwy |
I got into Kyogle and found 2 motels way out the southern
side of town. A long walk back for dinner. Casino was only 30 Kms away and it
was still early so I kept going. Casino is a much larger town and there were
plenty of Motels to choose from. I wouldn't choose the same one again mind you,
a bit out of the action and full of very noisy people who were up early for a
chat.
I wandered down to about 6pm and had a look at a couple
of pubs that didn't inspire me. The town was deserted on a Monday night. I
spotted a large and well kept RSL club and took a chance. Very comfortable,
clean and well maintained. Tooheys Old on tap. Wine by the (large) glass, and
good country style crumbed lamb cutlets. What more could a weary traveller
want.
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| Casino |
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| Casino |
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| Casino - Monday nights are quiet. |
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| Sun setting on the Richmond River, from Casino bridge. |
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| Casino RSL. Looking good. |
Tuesday 28th July
Casino, Grafton, Nymboida, Tyringham, Dorrigo, Bellingen
220kms
A short days ride, but fantastic conditions. It was cool
start to the day, but a clear blue sky and no wind. I stopped for petrol in
Grafton and then headed down Armidale Road through the backwoods country. Great
scenery, some narrow winding road, potholes and the odd timber truck to keep me
on my toes. I had planned to stop for coffee in Nymboida, not having a clue
what to expect there, but dreaming of lost hippie community with a nice cafe.
Very disappointed. Nothing. Just out of town there was large hotel type
establishment with a rope across the driveway and sign saying "CLOSED -
KEEP OUT". I can take a hint. I kept going. At a small village called
Tyringham I turned onto Tyringham Road which too me to Dorrigo. This was an
even smaller road than Armidale road, but serviceable. Really backwoods country
here with farm houses glimpsed through the trees.
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| Dorrigo |
I soon found that in July, not much happens in Bellingen
after about 6pm. The place was deserted and there wasn’t much open for dinner.
I finished up in the Bamboo Palace Chinese Restaurant, which turned out to be
unique in my considerable experience of country town Chinese restaurants. There
was not a single person of Chinese heritage, or any Asian heritage for that
matter, working in the restaurant. There was a tall young Caucasian man in the
kitchen wielding the woks and a young lady taking orders and serving. They did
a great job and the food was better than many of the country town Chinese
Restaurants I have tried.
Wednesday 29th July.
Bellingen.
I had a whole day in Bellingen. I was spoilt for choice
for Breakfast. I finished up in the Black Bear with an open fire, a large
unhealthy breakfast and lashings of coffee. Perfect.
My main reason for staying the day was to visit some
friends in Nambucca Heads which is about 30 minutes away. I spent about 4 hours
in Nambucca having a good old chat with the friends and got back to Bellingen
about 4pm. The Café Ambrosia was open for dinner and I had Butter Dhal with
roti and salad. Washed down with a couple of glasses of wine. A very pleasant
evening.
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| Hotel I stayed in at Bellingen |
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| Coffee in Bellingen |
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| A morning walk in the park. Bellingen |
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| It get's quiet here at night |
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| An open fire, an unhealthy breakfast and lashings of coffee. |
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| Still quiet. Bellingen |
Thursday 30 July.
Bellingen, Dorrigo, Armidale, Uralla, Walcha, Gloucester,
Dungog, Singleton
500Kms
Another hearty Bellingen breakfast and I was on the road.
Waterfall Way up to Dorrigo and Armidale is a beautiful trip. I stopped at Ebor
to have quick look at the falls, which was worth the effort.
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| Ebor Falls |
Straight through Armidale and on to Uralla and then
Walcha. A petrol stop in Walcha and then off down Thunderbolt’s Way. I have
ridden this way a few times now, but you would never tire of it. Lots of changing
country and scenery and not much traffic. Always a fast run.
I stopped in Gloucester for coffee and a sandwich. I had
been in 2 minds about spending the night in either Gloucester or Singleton and
I was making very good time so I decided to push on to Singleton.
Down Bucket’s Way to Stroud and then across to Dungog.
Dungog had been inundated with floods back in April and a number of houses had
been swept away. I could see the empty blocks and a couple of houses destroyed but
still in place.
Across to East Gresford on one of my favourite roads,
Bingleburra. A great name with scenery to match.
This brings you in the back of Singleton. I had never
stayed here before and wasn’t sure what to expect. I found a very nice Motel in
the middle of town and settled in. The main street was mainly blocked off and
the road was being worked on. It was like this in March when I came through and
the CBD was deserted and looked like the businesses were suffering. Surprisingly,
I found an excellent restaurant called The Grainery where I had a wonderful
meal with good wines by the glass. A pleasant way to spend the last night of my
trip.
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| Singleton |
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| Singleton. Road Works. |
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| The Grainery. Singleton |
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| Singleton |
Friday 31st July.
Singleton, Bulga, Putty, Windsor, Liverpool, Oyster Bay
257Kms
I found a very nice café close to The Grainery for
Breakfast and got away from Singleton about 9am. Everyday so far had been cool
with clear blue skies, and today was no different.
I headed down Putty Road. There was less traffic than
usual and I was able to make good time (that means I was speeding). A stop at
the Grey Gum Café for coffee and off down to Windsor and on to the dreaded M7
for the run to Liverpool, then Heathcote Road and home.
A very enjoyable week covering 2,461 Kms all up. As much
as I enjoy these trips. It is always good to get home, especially having a
weekend to recover before going back to work.
Now, where to next?
