Saturday
10th September, 2016
Sydney - Goulbourn - Yass - Gundagai - Holbrook - Albury - Yarrawonga
After my last tour in July I booked a week’s leave in September, not sure what I would do. Between then and now my lovely wife had 2 weeks house sitting our ex neighbours house in Nambucca Heads. As a result she was very understanding of me going away for a week.
After some poring over maps I settled on a loop of northern Victoria and back through Northern NSW. The first leg was to Yarrawonga. At 660 kms that was to be the biggest day. I got an early start and left a sunny Sydney at 7.30. By the time I passed the Berrima turnoff I got the first spots of rain and it was getting colder. I had steady drizzle through Goulbourn and Yass so I didn't stop. I got to Gundagai about 11.30 and the rain had eased and it was down to 9c. Is stopped for petrol but decided not to eat. I had had a good breakfast and was feeling pretty good. Very pleased that I had done the 380 odd kilometres to Gundagai non-stop. A testament to the new bike. I did stand up on the pegs a number of times to relive the butt and felt very comfortable.
I stopped in Holbrook for a burger and coffee. The rain had stopped by then. The countryside on the whole trip was incredible green and lush due to good rain throughout the winter. Because of the heavy rain in the few days before this trip, rivers were swollen, usually dry creeks were running swiftly and it looked more like English countryside than NSW. The hills around Yass were covered in lush green grass. The livestock looked particularly satisfied.
Holbrook |
I got through Albury Wodonga and turned off the highway to go through the beautiful little town of Rutherglen before reaching Yarrawonga. Yarrawonga is on the side of lake Mulwala, formed by a weir on the Murray River. It is a pretty spot popular for fishing, boating canoeing etc for holidaymakers from Victoria. There is very long bridge that joins Yarrawonga to Mulwala on the NSW side. The bridge has a serious bend in it and the level dips quite considerably. Apparently construction was commenced on both sides simultaneously by the Victorian and NSW governments, but they had not co-ordinated their approach, so that when they were ready to meet they realised they were coming from different angles and at different levels. Reminds me of the railways.
The bridge. Yarrawonga |
Yarrawonga |
Sunset on Lake Mulwala |
Had a pleasant night in Yarrawonga. Beers at a couple of pubs. Dinner at the 3rd pub and a very early night.
Sunday 11th September, 2016
Yarrawonga - Cobram - Echuca - Kerang - Swan Hill - Sea Lake - Ouyen - Mildura
A hearty breakfast of Smashed avocado on sourdough with poached eggs and bacon, washed down with lashings of coffee and I was ready to go.
This turned out to be a bigger day than I had expected. I thought I was in for a trip of just over 400 kms but it turned out to be 580. Not sure where I went wrong. I think I added Sea Lake after the initial calculation, but it was a great at ride.
I pretty much followed the Murray from Yarrawonga through Cobram and on to Echuca. Echuca really impressed me. Sunday morning and there were people everywhere. Sitting in lots of Cafes with footpath seating and just wandering around. There are lots of lovely old buildings and pubs and the old paddle steamer port is a heritage centre and you can still book river cruises on a paddle steamer. Definitely a spot for a return visit.
On through Kerang and then a fuel and lunch stop in Swan Hill. Then I turned west and headed to Sea Lake in search of Lake Tyrell. My wife had shown me a story about people journeying to Sea Lake, even from Japan, to have a photo taken on nearby Lake Tyrell. The lake is very shallow, and on a good day it can reflect the big sky perfectly, creating spectacular photos. Apparently the locals from the town of Sea Lake are bit bemused by all this activity on their lake. I found it. Possibly not the best day for it. You can't get close enough to it to take water level shots without walking through quite a bit of mud. I kept a safe distance and needless to say, my photos are particularly unspectacular.
A fancy photo of Lake Tyrell |
Fancy Lake Tyrell again |
My photo of Lake Tyrell |
From there on to Ouyen and then to Mildura, booking in to the Motel at about 4:45. I found when I got off the bike that the screen and headlight were covered in squashed bugs. Turns out they were probably aphids from the cops I had been passing. A bugger to clean. A late day for me. A rest, shower and off to the Mildura Brewery for dinner and a few of the local specialties.
Aphids on the screen |
Mildura Brewery |
Monday 2th September
Mildura - Wentworth - Coombah - Broken Hill
Woke to a beautiful sunny morning in Mildura and had breakfast across the road from the motel at Steffano's. Grilled chorizo on toasted corn and polenta with poached eggs, wilted spinach and Steffano's peach chutney. Ate it all up no problems.
Stefano's, Mildura. For breakfast |
Left town about 9 and headed out through Erbien, which I'd never heard of. A small town outside Mildura, on the Murray with lots of vineyards and orchards. Then a bridge across the Murray, a bridge across the Darling and into Wentworth. There is a park there overlooking the joining of the Darling and the Murray called Junction Park. Stopped for a few photos. Wentworth also has an historic goal, which I had a look at. I was amazed at the similarity with the Hay goal, both of which have now been turned into museums. Hay goal was built in 1880 and Wentworth in 1881. Wentworth hasn't been used since 1928, but Hay was put back into service for POWs during the Second World War and again for "problematic" girls from Parramatta Girls home up until the 1970s.
Wentworth. Murray Darling confluence |
My photo. Darling on the left. Murray on the right |
Then it was on to the Silver City Highway to Broken Hill. 270 kilometres of mostly straight road in good condition. I cruised on 130 kms overtaking quite a few four wheel drives pulling caravans. No doubt driven by grey haired retirees.
I stopped at the Coombah Roadhouse, roughly half way. Just the road house there. Nothing else. Although it was quite busy with other travellers having a break.
Coombah Roadhouse |
I had considered taking Tandou Road across to Menindee on the way. I knew it was a dirt road and I thought it was about 50 kms which I was prepared for. When I got to the turnoff it said Menindee 98kms. I'll try to get to Menindee tomorrow on the bitumen road. Along the way there were lots of hoppers on the road that hopped as I was approaching. They were too late to get very high on the bike, but there were lots of them squashed on my boots and the bottom of the bike when I arrived. There were also a number of eagles sitting on the road eating the hoppers. They would fly as I approached, but if they took off in the same direction I was going, they couldn't get very high before I went beneath them. I got some interesting close ups of Eagle’s undercarriages.
I know they have had a lot of rain this season, but the country side was green all the way to Broken Hill. I'm sure that doesn't happen often. In fact, I think it has been nothing but green since I left Sydney.
I got to Broken Hill at 12-30, checked in. Had a shower and nice wander around town. I even got up to the Line of Lode Miners memorial, on top of the giant mullock hill on the edge of the city. This site was closed the last time I was in town and I was glad to finally get up there. Great view.
Broken Hill from the Line of Lode Memorial |
Miner's memorial |
Tuesday 13th September
Broken Hill – Wilcannia – Cobar
First stop was Wilcannia. This is not a town I ever feel
comfortable in. I only stop because it is so far between fuel stops out here. I
stopped for fuel. The 95 super was out of order, so I begrudgingly filled with
91 and got moving.
I had considered going through Menindee again on the way to Wilcannia,
but fortunately I checked the condition of the road only to find the local
council had closed the road. I f I had ridden to Menindee I would have had to
return to Broken Hill. A 200 Km round trip to get back to where I started from.
rest stop between Wilcannia and Nyngan |
It's not supposed to be this green |
A bit further on I stopped at the Emdale Roadhouse. I had
been here before. Middle of nowhere. Petrol, Coffee. Carrot Cake. Looked like
the place was being run by young back packers. But they know how to make a cup
of coffee. The final 160 Kms into Cobar and the country became greener every kilometre.
This country is not usually green. They must have had a lot of rain over the winter season for it
to look like this. After 450 Kms I got into Cobar, booked into the Motel and
found the Great Western Hotel which brags the longest iron lace veranda in NSW.
And it is long. It also served a good beer, Little Creatures Pale Ale, and a
good dinner, Crumbed Lamb cutlets. Back to the motel in a very satisfied mood
and ready for an early night.
Great Western Hotel in Cobar. Long Veranda. |
Dinner at the Great Western |
Wednesday 14th September
Cobar – Nyngan - Trangie – Narromine – Dubbo - Mudgee
I had breakfast in the Motel Dining Room, which was a
mistake. Live and Learn, but Left Cobar about 9am in a very light drizzle. I
was expecting to be in rain most of the day, but as it turned out, I think I
was behind it all day. The roads were all soaked and water lay on the side of
the road, but I didn't get any more rain.
The country continued to look greener than the day before. I
feel quite privileged to see it like this. I'm sure it doesn't happen often.
Just after Nyngan there was a spot where water was covering the highway.
I stopped in Narromine for coffee and a pie and petrol. It
still looked like it was about to rain. After Narromine it was a fairly short
hop to Dubbo, where I didn't stop and then another hour on to Mudgee through
Goolma. This last 100 km or so on smaller back country roads, with good twisty
bits and nice scenery made me realise that the last few days on long straight
outback roads had been pretty boring and this was pure fun. As a result, I
found myself in Mudgee far too soon. 430 Kms in all
Narromine. Unexpectedly good coffee. |
Shortly after I had checked in to a motel, it finally started
raining and didn't stop for about 4 hours. No issue for me. I had an umbrella
to get to the pub and find a nice spot for dinner. No challenge at all in
Mudgee.
Thursday 15th September.
Mudgee – Rylestone – Kandos – Lithgow – Blackheath – Katoomba
– Oyster Bay.
After a lovely breakfast at the Market Street Cafe, I left
town just after 9 and took the Lue Road to Rylstone, just to enjoy a few more
country roads before joining the highway. I stopped in Rylstone for a coffee
and then headed on through Kandos before joining the highway. Once you pass
Lithgow, the travelling becomes a bit more of a chore, especially with the
roadworks going on in this area, combined with heavier traffic.
Breakfast in Mudgee. Market Street Cafe |
Mudgee morning. |
Coffee in Rylstone. |
I stopped at Blackheath for a last sandwhich and coffee
before rejoining the rat race through the Blue Mountains and Penrith on the M4
and M7. Mad Drivers everywhere.