Bilpin - Mt Wilson

20^th May, 2011

The Bells Line of Road is somewhere that I had been hearing about for many years, especially with regard to riding motorcycles. Likewise, Mt Wilson is a place that I have been interested in visiting for some time. I had read an article about it in a recent motorbike magazine from the point of view of a rider visiting there for the day. Over the past few weeks I had been keeping an eye on the weather, social and family commitments waiting for the opportunity to venture north west.

The previous weekend, all had looked good, until a cold snap showed a predicted top temperature at Mt Wilson of 7 degrees with a reel feel of 3 degrees. Too cold for me.

This week the temperature looked more like 17 degrees. Good enough. My wife decided to come as well, but opted to drive rather than pillion. This was OK with me as I like to try out a road on my own first before committing to a long ride with a pillion. Some roads are more suitable than others.

We got away about 9 am and went out through Casula to Bringelly and then turned right on to the Northern Road. This takes you north through Luddenham and the eastern edge of Penrith. Then on to Londonderry Road, through Londonderry and straight on to Richmond.  Then right on to Kurrajong Rd, across the Hawkesbury river and then you are on Bells Line of Road.

The initial climb through North Richmond and Kurrajong heights is steep and fairly slow going, but then you level out somewhat and wind through Bilpin. The countryside is beautiful with occasional view off through the valleys to the mountains beyond.

We stopped at the Bilpin Fruit Bowl for coffee and to buy some of the compulsory apples. Right in the middle of the shop they have a woman baking fresh apple pies and the smell as they come out of the oven gives the seller an unfair advantage over the buyer.

Bilpin Fruit Bowl - Watch out for the hot apple pies.

From there we continued along Bells Line of Road passed the Mt Tomah Botanic Gardens, which look like a nice place to stop on future visits, until we came to a spot called the Walls lookout. We parked in the small car park and took the 1 km trek to the lookout which had the most spectacular views over the Grose valley. Well worth the trek. This took about 1 hour all up.

The wife and I - At the Walls Lookout - Bells Line of road.

The Walls

We then carried on the short distance down the Bells Line of Road to the Mt Wilson (two, three, ) turnoff. As you approach Mt Wilson you can see the change in vegetation. The bush becomes much more lush with more ferns and larger trees. The rich soil, higher rainfall and cooler climate has made it a popular place for large English style gardens since it was settled around 1875.

At this time of year, the deciduous trees are changing colour and trees are beautiful shades of red green and gold. It is a very impressive place to drive into at this time of year. We stumbled onto a private garden at a home called WindyRidge and spent half an hour wandering around. It was a very beautiful place. Have a look at the photos. We spent the 45 minutes looking around Mt Wilson and enjoying the sites of the huge, colourful trees and the avenues lined with fallen leaves.



Windyridge Garden



Windyridge Garden

Windyridge Garden

Windyridge Garden

Windyridge Garden

Windyridge Garden

Windyridge Garden

Windyridge Garden

Windyridge Garden

Curch Lane - Mt Wilson

Curch Lane - Mt Wilson

Curch Lane - Mt Wilson

Mountain bike - Thunderbird at Mt Wilson

Time was ticking away and we were looking for a late lunch. The only café advertised in Mt wilson was closed on the day. We had earlier had thoughts of going on to Lithgow but it was getting too late for that, so we decided to head back to Bilpin to find somewhere to eat.

In The Apple Bar - Decision time.

We stopped at a the first place that served food that didn’t say hamburgers or pies on the sign out the front. As it turned out, this was the find of the day. We were at the Apple Bar and as soon as I saw the Good Food Guide sticker on the front door my confidence lifted. The apple bar was a gem. Have a look in Cafes and pubs for more info.

After an hour or so over a very tasty lunch, time was getting away. We hit the road for the trip home. We went back the same route, only now the roads were getting busier with people coming home from work. Fortunately the heavier traffic was going in the opposite direction to us, but it still took quite a while and it was dark by the time we got home. A small serve of fresh apple pie was all that was required.

All in all it was a great day and great ride. The Bells Line of Road is highly recommended for a cruise on the bike. Next time I will make sure I have ti,e to go all the way to Lithgow. My wife might even go on the bike.

Hay

20^th April, 2011

I was born in Hay and spent my childhood there. For the last few years my 3 borthers and I have been getting together at Hay over the Anzac Day long weekend to catch up. This year Anzac day fell on Easter Monday. I normally avoid travelling over Easter because the traffic in and out of Sydney is horrendous. However, this year we all agreed to go to Hay over Easter. To avoid the traffic I took a day off either side of Easter so I wouldn’t be travelling in the heavy traffic.

More importantly, I decided to ride the Thunderbird to Hay. It is a 700 km trip and usually takes 8 hours in the car including stops for food and fuel. I have been thinking of riding there for some time and this seemed like a great opportunity.

The morning of the 20^th was cool and there was some rain expected along the route. I was up and ready to go by 6-30, dressed and warm and waterproof gear. The bike was kitted out with windscreen, saddlebags, sissy bar and sissy bar bag.

I was off out of Sydney before the traffic got serious and the cruise to Goulburn was uneventful and a little cool around Mittagong. I didn’t stop till I reached Goulburn about 8-30am. I called in at the Big Merino. The Big Merino has been around since 1985 and used to be in Goulburn when the highway actually went through the town. These days you take the Goulburn bypass, but there is a service station with a few fast food outlets near the bypass and the big Merino has been moved here to catch more of the passing traffic. When you enter the service station you get a close up of the Big Merino’s rear and you will be pleased to know that the designers did not skimp on anatomical detail at the lesser seen end. See the photo.



Big Merino's Bollocks

Coffee and breakfast and I was back on the road heading for Yass and then Gundagai. Just East of Gundagai, the rain finally started. It got quite heavy, but only for short bursts. The wet weather gear worked perfectly and the Thunderbird never missed a beat, only having to slow down when visibility became a problem. I kept going on to Wagga Wagga where I stopped at a Roadhouse for fuel and refreshments. I ordered a toasted sandwich and when I asked if they had whole meal or wholegrain the answer was “Oh no we don’t have either of those here”. The waitress then cheerfully took my order for a flat white coffee and soon after delivered a mug of milk coffee made with instant coffee powder which quicly developed a nice thick skin over the top. I had forgotten the joys of country roadhouse cuisine, but it soon came back to me.

When you reach Wagga Wagga you usually feel like you have done a full trip, but Hay is another 270 kms. 100 kms to Narranderra, where I stopped again to stretch the legs and have a cup of tea (I wasn’t game to try the coffee) . Then it’s off for the final 170 kms across the plains. From here on in the country is flat and the roads are generally straight. You are heading due west at this stage so it’s a good idea not to get here at sunset or you are looking straight into a setting sun without even a hill to shade the glare.

I got to Hay about 4pm. The bike looked like it had buckets of mud poured over it. This was from the spray thrown up from the road by cars and trucks. 719 kms from door to door. All in all I was in pretty good shape. I had left a day earlier than my wife and kids thinking that I might have to stop overnight along the way if fatigue or the sun became an issue. But that was not the case. If I were travelling for a number of consecutive days I think it would try to limit each day to about 500 kms. But, as a one off, 700 kms was not too bad.



Very muddy Thunderbird - Arriving at Hay



I spent the next week in Hay living on beer, red wine and dead sheep, with lots of stories about my brother’s lives since we had last met and a hefty dose of laughter. My wife, son, daughter and her boyfriend were there as well and it was nice to slow down and enjoy small country town life for a while.



Hay - Early morning fog



The two boys got to shoot some quail, ducks and rabbits and ride a couple of old dirt bikes that my eldest brother has had at Hay for about 20 years. I am always amazed that they even start.



Boys on the bikes





a 1995 Thunderbird 900 at Hay 150,000kms and still going strong

My daughter on the Thunderbird - First time she's been near it.

How flat is the One Tree Plain - just north of Hay



Sculpture in the river bend at Hay

More sculpture in the river bend at Hay

Inside the Hay Gaol Museum

Gaol Bird- Thunderbird outside the Hay Gaol Museum

My wife and family left to come back to Sydney on 26^th which was the last public holiday. I stayed one more night to miss the traffic. On the 27^th I left Hay about 8-30 am and made the return trip. There had been quite a lot of rain about but I managed to miss it all except for a few drops around Goulburn.

This time I went into the main street of Wagga and found a lovely café called De Lish which served me a delightful breakfast and 2 cups of flat white. In Gundagai I came across my eldest brother and his wife who were also travelling back to Sydney that day. They followed me from there to Goulburn at a cracking pace.

On the return journey I adopted the system of stopping separately for food and fuel. This gave me twice as many stops which is great for stretching the back and legs and also meant I could be a bit more selective about where I had coffee or food rather than just sticking to petrol stations. A good plan for future trips.

I got back to Sydney about 5pm, a little tired but none the worse for wear. 1500 kms in a week was a good workout for the Thunderbird and I.

Joadja - Bundanoon

3^rd April, 2011

A beautiful Sunday morning in Sydney, after a couple of weeks of overcast drizzly weather. My wife was going on an aboriginal heritage walk which would keep her busy for the day, and my sometime Sunday morning Kayaking partner, Richard the gourmet historian, was having friends over for one of his famed gourmet brunches, so I was free to spend a day on the bike.

I had recently heard of a deserted village call Joadja (click here and here for more info) down near Mittagong that I was keen to locate. I knew that it was on private property and I probably would not be able to access it, but it looked like a nice ride anyway. Joadja had been a village centered round a shale mining operation in the late 19^th century and was eventually abandoned in the early 20^th century.

It was the perfect day for riding. Sunny, blue sky, but not too hot. I headed for Mittagong about 9am. This was the first real test for my new windscreen and I was looking forward to giving it a good workout. I took the usual route through Appin, Wilton and then down the freeway to Mittagong. Refueled and out Wombeyan caves road. Beautiful country once again, and I was surprised at the number of vineyards in the area and wineries advertising that they were open to the public. Invites a return visit. I have thought about going all the way out this road to Wombeyan Cave, but there is still a large section unsealed. Large cruiser motorcycles are not meant for dirt roads.

I turned left into Handleys lane and a short time later, right on to Joadja Road. More winieries and some palatial looking homes along the way, with a few very old original looking cottages. Eventually I came to an end to the public road. 2 private roads continued on, but unsealed. There was also a for sale sign there, detailing the fact that the abandoned village was contained in the parcel of land up for sale. I thought about venturing down the private road, but common sense prevailed. Getting into difficulty on a dirt road, a long way from help seemed to be unnecessarily complicated when trespassing was thrown into the equation. Perhaps another time.

Joadja  - Old miner's cottages



Joadja - old school building



Joadja - old shale ovens



Joadja Information

The day was still young, the weather was still beautiful and I still had a full tank of petrol. I retraced my steps and turned right into Handleys Lane and continued on to Berrima. Berrima is a lovely little historic town with some beautiful old sandstone buildings, including a gaol. As on most sunny Sunday afternoons, Berrima was full of people out for a drive, visiting cafes and museums. I went straight through, down Berrima Road to Moss Vale, then along the Illawarra Road through Sutton Forest before turning on to Exeter Road, continuing through Exeter and on to Bundanoon.



Bundanoon - Markets



Bundanoon Markets



Thunderbird at Bundanoon

My wife and I had been to Bundanoon a few years earlier and had stayed in the pub to attend a friend’s birthday and we had fond memories of the town. Today the markets were on and the main street was busy with people browsing stalls and soaking up the sunshine. It looked like there were many tourists in for the day. I had a wander around and checked the stalls. Bought some caramelized balsamic salad which makes a great salad dressing and decided it was a good time for lunch.

After looking at a few establishments I went into the Gardener’s Kitchen (see Pubs ans Cafes). A nice setup with a varied menu and a nursery at the back. I wouldn’t be needing the nursery today. After perusing the menu I ordered Sweet Potato and Chick Pea Slice, served with salad, yoghurt and mango chutney. It was, in a word, delicious. Coffee was good too. Highly recommended.



The Gardener's Kitchen



The Gardener's Kitchen

After lunch I decided travel a little bit further south west of Bundanoon to visit the Sunnataram Forest Monastery, a Buddhist monastery in a beautiful bush setting. There is a large stone Pagoda there. My wife and I had visited the last time we were in Bundanoon and the pagoda was being built. The Tibetan stone masons could be seen fashioning the stone pieces to build the Pagoda. Today it was finished and it is a very impressive site.



Sunnataram Forest Monastery



Sunnataram Forest Monastery



Buddhist Thunderbird - with windscreen



Sign at the entrance to the Sunnataram Forest Monastery

I then cruised back through Bundanoon, Exeter, Suttons Forest, Moss Vale and Bowral. All beautiful towns, separated by beautiful, scenic countryside. Although riding through Bowral on a busy Sunday afternoon, I remembered that last time I rode through Bowral on a busy Sunday afternoon I swore I would never do it again. Next time.

Between Bowral and Mittagong lies a small mountain called Mt Gibraltar. I have often seen the signs pointing to Mt Gibraltar lookout and today I thought I would venture up. You can enter the reserve from either Bowral or Mittagong sides and the road takes you over the top and down to the town on the other side. On the way there are some picnic areas and lookouts over both Bowral and Mittagong. I stopped at the Mittagong lookout and the view is spectacular. Coming down the Mittagong side there are some huge houses with beautifully manicured gardens high up on the hill. Apparently this became the posh end of time from very early on.



View from Mt Gibralter looking over Mittagong.

Once back through Mittagong I was enjoying myself so much I decided to take the long way home. I crossed the freeway and wound my way back through Colo Vale, Hilltop, Balmoral, Buxton Thirlmere and Picton. I even stopped at Picton and had a schooner of lite beer. I was having a very good day. Then on to Wilton, Appin, Bulli Tops, Helensburgh and a quick stop at Stanwell Tops. Very busy. Home through the National Park and once again I am sure I have sworn to myself not to go through the park on sunny Sunday afternoons because the traffic is awful. Lines of slow cars being overtaken by reckless motorcycle riders does not make a pleasant ride.

Got back home about 4-30 pm. 400 kilometers and I felt fresh enough to do another 400. I put that down to the new windscreen which really reduces the wind drag on the body and reduces the fatigue enormously. A great idea.

Nattai - Stanwell Tops

Sunday 13^th March, 2011

Weather predictions were not good for today, but then they had not been good for the past week, and the predictions had been wrong every day. I decided to head off early and have some breakfast before the weather changed. At 8.00am it was a lovely sunny morning.

I went down the old Princes highway, off to Appin and through Douglas Park and out to Picton to r. coffee for breakfast where Ryan and the staff take good care of me. I have been working my way through the breakfast menu at this place and today I spied the Eggs Benedict. A dish I normally avoid because it is not the healthiest option, but it is bloody nice. The r. did not disappoint. Two large flat whites to wash it down, a browse through the Sunday Paper and I ventured outside to see what the weather had done.

The weather had improved. It was a beautiful sunny day. I decided to ride out to Nattai. One of my favourite places.  You head Northwest from Picton on Barkers Lodge Road. This is a beautiful road through valleys and over hills with farmland on each side of the road, very little traffic and always a few other bikes around. The speed limit is 80 kph until you reach Mowbray Park, which is just a few houses, and then it increases to 100kph. Sitting on 100 kph, or a little bit more, on these roads is a great way to kill some time. Lovely windy roads, rolling hills, great scenery and a sense of being hundreds of miles away from a city. Fantastic.

Eventually you come to the small town of Oakdale and turn left on to Burragorang Road. In 10 minutes you come to the tiny village of Nattai. Village may be overdoing it a bit. There are no shops. Just a row of houses. Left over from coal mining days. At the end of the houses you enter the Burragorang State Recreation Area and climb slowly until you reach some picnic grounds with BBQ and toilet facilities, and right at the end of the road and the top of the hill, the most beautiful scenery opens out before you. Lake Burragorang. Created when the Warragamba Dam was built and the water backed up to fill the valleys. From the lookout you can see across the lake to the Blue Mountains on the other side and Blue Mountains National Park which stretches away to the west as far as the eye can see. It really is breathtaking. See the photos for a better idea.

View from Nattai Lookout

Nattai - Looking North

Nattai - Looking West



Nattai - Just looking



After a half hour of gazing, taking photos and re-reading the information boards at the lookout I head back into Oakdale. You can continue straight through Oakdale and onto the Oaks, but I’ll save that for another day. This time I had enjoyed Barkers Lodge road so much I decided to go back the same way.

Back through Picton and out Remembrance Drive this time towards Camden and turning off on Finns Road which takes you back to Douglas Park.

Back through Appin and Wilton, Bull tops, Helensburgh and down to Bald Hill at Stanwell Tops. This is another amazingly beautiful place. And on a Sunday afternoon there are plenty of bikes, cars and a few hang gliders about.

Bald Hill is commemorated as the spot Lawrence Hargraves used to test his kites, which played an important part in the early progress to manned flights. There is plenty of information about him at Bald Hill.

From here you can see all the way down the coast to Wollongong to the South and the bottom end of the royal National Park to the North.

I like to have a wander around here on busy days and have a good look at all the bikes. A veritable showroom of two wheeled wonders.

Bald Hill - thunderbird amongst the crowd.

Bald Hill - view South

Seacliff bridge - Just south of Stanwell park

Back on the bike and through the National Park towards home. The Royal National Park is a trip I have probably done on average once a week for the last 3 years. I will never get tired of it. It was a great training ground when I first returned to riding. It was the scene of my only fall (so far) since returning to riding. The park is in 3 distinct phases. Coming from the south you travel along Lady Wakehurst drive which winds through semi rain forest. Tall lush trees forming a canopy right of the road in many places, up and down hills and often following a rivulet which flows all the way to Audley and becomes the Hacking River.

Road throgh the Royal National Park



Royal - National Park - 2nd oldest national park in the world



Then you come to an intersection. MacKell Ave goes off to the left taking you up to Waterfall and onto the Princes Highway. Going right puts you on to Sir Bertram Stevens Drive and takes you into the 2^nd phase of the Royal. Here you climb up to the plateau and the country opens out into heath lands and you travel some long straight stretches of road before coming to the turnoffs for Wattamolla and Bundeena. Then the 3^rd phase begins, winding up and down hills until you come to Audley , cross the river and make the final climb up to the highway at Sutherland. I love the fact that you come straight out of the park into the outskirts of Sydney. It’s 10 minutes to home from there on. Another lovely day on the Thunderbird.