Tuesday, 16 August 2016

The Super Adventure Begins


A new bike


After 2 years and 42,000 km time has come once again for an update.

the Honda Crosstourer has been a great bike and I have enjoyed every kilometre. It has been the first "adventure tourer" style bike I have had and it will not be the last. I find that this style of bike suits my needs absolutely perfectly. A very comfortable upright seating position, enough protection from the elements, perfect for long distance touring and able to tackle a dirt road with confidence. As they say in the trade "it ticks all the boxes"

I have been looking at the KTM 1290 Super adventure for a while now and having taken the plunge in July, I am thrilled with the result. It is so far ahead of the Honda it is in another suburb. If you are really interested in the details click here. Suffice to say that it won best adventure tourer for 2015.

Unfortunately, with 42,000 Ks the trade in value for the Honda took a serious hit. You can have a good trade in value on a bike, or, you can ride it a lot. I choose to ride it a lot. This is what the ad says when the dealer was selling my traded Honda. " In great condition for the mileage and well looked after (full service history),"


Here it is.
That's me.

with luggage

Tuesday, 21 June 2016

Bourke - Charleville, June 2016


Friday 10th June, 2016

 

Sydney - Katoomba - Lithgow - Mudgee - Goolma - Dubbo


430 km

 
Day 1

Time for a quick break. Again. On my own. Sorry Richard. I had booked a week off from work some time ago before planning where I would go. The rule of thumb is south in summer, north in winter. This was definitely winter so north it was.  In the last 2 years I had done Lightning ridge and Roma and also Goondawindi. Cobar and Broken Hill before that.  Now for the bit in the middle. Bourke, Charleville and maybe a bit further north if time permits.

 

So Friday morning I set off with the gracious support of my wife and headed to the blue mountains. Leaving Sydney was about 18℃, the warmest temperature I was to have for quite a while. By the time I got to Katoomba it got down to 10c. Fortunately I had dressed appropriately and I was loving every minute.  I stopped at Lithgow for petrol. A balmy 11℃ by then. Straight on to Mudgee. Not through Kandos and Rylstone this time. I had further to go.  Got to Mudgee and it was still only 13℃. Stopped for coffee and grilled ham panini which was larger than I needed but too tasty to leave. Cafe 89 in Market St. Recommended.

 

Then out of Mudgee and west on Guntawang Rd and then Goolma Rd. New territory for me, but judging by the traffic, a popular route to and from Dubbo.  It had been very overcast since the Blue Mountains and finally, about 10 kms out of Dubbo I got some rain, but not enough to cause a problem or even to slow down.

 

I was in Dubbo about 3.30pm. I had booked into the Dubbo RSL Motel and it was a good choice. Very comfortable and had a back door straight onto the car park where the bike was parked.

 

Shower, read the news and off down the street. Had a beer in a pub and then found the old Bank Bar and Restaurant. Very hip. Great range of beers. Had an Asahi Black and a Stone and Wood. It was very busy and I was lucky to get somewhere to sit. I thought I would go to the RSL, opposite the Motel and very large for dinner. Shame. I should have stayed at the Old Bank.

 
Dubbo by night

I got to the RSL and it was packed. People of all shapes and sizes were everywhere and there was a cue to order meals. So I had a drink. Finally got the meal ordered and found a table around the back.  Meal was sufficient, but I couldn't help thinking about the Old Bank.

The Old Bank - Dubbo
 

Staggered back to my room and couldn't stay awake for long enough to watch anything on the IPad. Very early night.

 

Saturday 11th June, 2016

 

Dubbo - Narromine - Trangie - Nyngan - Byrock - Bourke


384 km

 
Day 2

Early night, early awake. Plenty of time to read the paper. Love the iPad. Then a stroll down town to find breakfast. A restaurant I had reconnoitred the night before was open and served an excellent Moroccan bean stew with poached eggs on top and fried polenta on the side, washed down with a couple of very nice coffees.

 
Breakfast at Dubbo

As I walked back to the Motel, I could hear very bad 70s pop music blaring from a PA, but couldn't see what it was. As I left the motel and rode down past the oval, which is very close to the centre of town, I saw at least 100 Holden motor vehicles from the 60s and 70s shining in the morning sun. An enthusiasts heaven. Lots of people once described as bodgies were wandering through cars.

 

I left Dubbo and headed out through Narromine and Trangie. A bit of traffic on the road. Not unusual for a Saturday morning in rural AUSTRALIA. Got to Nyngan about 11am. Filled up with petrol and stopped for a coffee and muffin.

 
Nyngan

Then off on the Mitchell Highway. On the map, the Mitchell highway from Nyngan to Bourke is a straight line. This an accurate depiction. Conditions were so good that I kept finding myself traveling at 150kph. When I did I immediately slowed down to about 130, but it crept up again pretty quickly. I really need cruise control.

 

A mate I work with and who grew up in Nyngan told me to make sure I stop at the Mulga creek Hotel in Byrock, about halfway between Nyngan and Bourke. I did. If it weren't for the Hotel, Byrock would be a house.  As it was, the hotel is a very idiosyncratic sort of place. When locals decide their hats are too old they get nailed to the roof of the hotel. See the photos. Had lunch and a light beer.

 
Mulga Creek Hotel - Byrock

In the bar

Old hats on the roof


Final run to Bourke. Got there about 2.30pm.  I had booked into the Riverside Motel which had been the historic Telegraph Hotel turned into a motel. And they have done a very good job. Very comfortable.  When the owner saw I was on a bike he changed my room and said I should park on the veranda which wasn’t visible from the road. I had seen signs in the reception saying the gates were locked between 9.30pm and 6.30am. Later I noticed the quite tall barbed wire fence forming a compound around the Motel which consisted of a number of historic buildings and a large yard and gardens. And the 2 Rottweilers. Security conscious.  I only had to walk across the road to the Diggers on the Darling restaurant for dinner. A former RSL club turned into a restaurant. I'm back there for breakfast apparently. 

 
Bourke Riverside Motel - originally the Telegraph Hotel
My room  - an old fireplace in the wall

Good parking conditions

Old paddle steamer wharf at Bourke

Diggers on the Darling - Former RSL club.


Sunday 12th June, 2016

 

 

Bourke - Engonia - Barringun - Cunnamulla - Wyandra - Charleville

 
450km

 
Day 3

Back over the road to the Diggers for breakfast. Traditional Australian fare cooked and served by a Chinese family. Only fair after I had traditional Chinese food cooked and served by an Australian family in Bellingen last year.

 

I left Bourke about 9am. As you leave there is a sign saying last petrol for 250 kms. There were a couple of small settlements before that, but no petrol or anything else really. More amazingly straight roads. Red, sandy soil and lots of scrubby trees on both sides of the road. Still plenty of green grass and water lying about. And dead kangaroos everywhere.

 
Crossing the border - north of Bourke

I saw a few live goats on this stretch. Very healthy looking goats. This day and the day before was dominated by Emus. Hundreds of them everywhere.

 

Got to Cunnamulla for lunch. A bit tired after 250kms non stop. Cunnamulla is a nice town with a very large bronze statue in a park near the Council chambers titled The Cunnamulla Fella. Not sure what that's all about.  There was a group in front of the council cooking a BBQ and a bus load of oldies wandering about. I went into a local cafe which was busy and wasn't coping very well with the crowd. Got a pie and a coffee.

The Cunnamulla Fella
 

Couldn't see much point in hanging around so filled with petrol at the only petrol station in town and headed for Charleville. Another 200 kms of straight roads, red soil and scrub.

 

As I got closer to Charleville there were 2 occasions where kangaroos ran across the road. The first one was about 50 meters in front so I just slowed down a bit. The second came out right beside me and fortunately I was going fast enough to get in front of it. I can't fathom why a kangaroo, when it gets startled by a sound just dates across the road no matter what is on the road. There were literally hundreds of dead kangaroos along these roads to testify to the total lack of road sense in these animals. Sheep aren't much better. But you never see a dead goat on the road. They always run the opposite direction from whatever startled them.

 

Got into Charleville about 3pm. Very quiet on a Sunday afternoon. After a little rest and a shower I wandered down the street. There was hardly another living soul to be seen on the streets of Charleville. I had noticed 2 incredibly large pubs on my way in. On closer inspection the first, The Charleville Hotel, turned out to be closed with for sale signs on it. The second, The Corones Hotel, was enormous and had a great looking dining room out the back. When I enquired at the bar I found that the dining room wasn't open, but they could do a steak sandwich, burger or bowl of chips. I had a beer and consulted the phone and found that a Motel called the Rocks had a restaurant open called On The Rocks, not too far away.

 
Charleville - busy Sunday afternoon
Charleville Town Hall - with kangaroo

Corones Hotel - Charleville

Charleville Hotel - for sale


I found it and after perusing the menu had slow cooked oxtail in star anise served with jasmine rice and bok choy. With some sweet potato chips on the side and a bottle of Chardonnay.  I was feeling pretty good after that.

 

I had to make a decision about whether I go further north or turn east the next day. I couldn't face another day of 450 kms of dead straight roads and nothing in between which was the prospects going to Longreach. So I decided to go east and booked a motel at Chinchilla.

 

Monday 13th June, 2016

 

Charleville - Morven- Roma - Miles - Chinchilla

 
445km

 
Day 4

I found a cafe open in Charleville for breakfast. Unmemorable. I left town about 8.30 am. More straight roads. Uneventful trip. Got to Roma about 11.30 and fuelled and had a toasted sandwich and a coffee before hitting the road for more of the same. I did make good time and I was in Chinchilla by 2pm. I got lucky with the Motel. Nice new rooms, undercover parking and a large Hotel with a nice restaurant connected. I won't be going far tonight.

 

Dinner in the Hotel dining room. Nice are. Very modern and clean. I had BBQ Duck Nasi Goreng, not sure if that is actually a thing. But it did the job.  After dinner I helped myself to the self-serve coffee  machine and, thinking I would splurge, went to the bar and asked if they had a cognac. The girl behind the bar looked at me as if I was an idiot and said "what's that?". I replied it was a fancy brandy, but to no avail. I settled for a Kahlua. It improved the coffee no end

Restaurant in the Club Hotel - Chinchilla

BBQ Duck Nasi Goreng
 
Motel in Chinchilla with Club Hotel in the background

Tuesday 14th June, 2016

 

 

Chinchilla - Dalby - Toowoomba - Allora - Boonah - Beaudesert


385 km

 
Day 5

Got away from Chinchilla about 9am and for the first hour it so it was more of the same. Long straight Queensland highways. I had had enough of them by now and they had become very tiring. I turned south in the outskirts of Toowoomba so I didn't have to go through the city centre. I finished up on the Cunningham Highway heading towards Brisbane and this took me through Cunninghams gap. This is a spectacular drive with amazing scenery. Unfortunately not many places to stop to admire it.

 

Got a bit of rain just before Beaudesert, but it didn't cause a problem. I got into Beaudesert early enough to go and have a sandwich and coffee for lunch and look around town. It was bigger than I thought it was and a couple of beers in the RSL went down very well. I spotted a Chinese restaurant which is where I later had dinner and a very early night.

Beaudesert
 

Wednesday 15th June, 2016

 

Beaudesert - Mt Lindsay - Kyogle - Casino - Grafton - Nymboida - Ebor - Armidale


455 km

 
Day 6

The reason I wanted to stay at Beaudesert is that it positions you perfectly for  some beautiful riding the next morning. The Mt Lindsay highway takes you through very twisty mountainous areas and some beautiful rain forests. A wonderful change from the last few days and I really enjoyed the riding.

 

Just into NSW you turn on to the Summerland way which brings you down the beautiful valleys leading to Kyogle. Lots of Dairy farms. Then through Casino and Grafton. Beautiful country. Really enjoyed the ride. A stop at Grafton for fuel and food, then over that magnificent bridge on the Clarence and then onto Armidale Rd. I have done this road before and I was looking forward to it. More twisty mountainous roads with beautiful forests and valleys. Through Nymboida and Tyringham and out on to Waterfall Way near Ebor. I noticed a very large building on the outskirts of Nymboida with a sign labelling it the Nymboida Power Station. I didn’t notice this last time I passed and I was curious. Wikipedia tells me it is a hydroelectric station taking water from the Nymboida River and it was built between 1924 and 1926. This pre-dates the Snowy Mountains Scheme by 20 years and must have been one of the first hydroelectric stations in Australia.

 

I stopped at Ebor for coffee. The temperature when I left Beaudesert was 14℃. At Grafton it was 22℃ and at Ebor it was down to 12℃. Chilly. A final run into Armidale and it reached 16℃. I had booked into a motel near the centre of the city and a short walk to the New England Hotel which supplied fine beer and a very tasty steak.

 
Armidale

Armidale

New England Hotel - Armidale

Dining Room of the New England Hotel


Thursday 16th June, 2016

 

Armidale - Tamworth - Gunnedah- Mullaley - Coolah - Mudgee


 425 km
Day 7

This was a bit random. I wanted to get to Mudgee and punched it into the GPS and followed directions. It was 5℃ when I left Armidale, but a beautiful clear blue sky. It soon warmed up to about 16c.

 

The surprise package here was The Black Stump Way. I had taken Oxley Highway from Tamworth, through Gunnedah and on to Mullally where I turned South on the Black Stump Way. A nice, smaller road with very little traffic and some great scenery. There were isolated mountains on either side of the road. The far outposts of the Warrumbungles, which made spectacular country. This lead me to Coolah, which I had never been to before. A nice little town which provided a nice coffee and pie at the local bakery for lunch. Lots of mentions of the Black Stump in town. Turns out Coolah is one of the 3 towns in Australia that claim to be the original home of the Black Stump. It makes interesting reading here.

 

Left Coolah on Cassillis Rd which joined The Golden Highway for 3 kms before turning again onto Ulan Rd. This was another revelation. It goes through the small communities of Ulan, Frog Rock and Budgee Budgee before entering Mudgee from the North East. Just before Ulan, about 40kms before Mudgee, I went past a most enormous coal mine which was a bit of a surprise. I had no idea it was there. The last 10 or 15 kms of Ulan Rd into Mudgee seems to be continuous vineyards and wineries. A lovely spot.

 

Got into Mudgee about 3pm. Last night on the road and I was very happy to be spending it in Mudgee. A few beers at the brewery and dinner at Eltons. Perfect.

 
Eltons - Mudgee


Crispy skin barramundi with coconut broth, noodles, coriander and chilli
Mudgee Brewery


Last breakfast. Eggs benedict at Market St café - Mudgee


Friday 17th June, 2016

 

Mudgee – Lithgow – Katoomba – Penrith – Liverpool – Oyster Bay


285 km
 
Day 8

A well-worn track for me these days. No surprises. It was drizzling rain when I left Mudgee about 9am and that continued to Lithgow. A few spots of blue sky over the mountains. I was going so well I didn’t stop at all before getting home about 12.30pm. The 3,200 Kms of the past week had caught up with me. I was ready for a little rest.

 
The full trip. 3,200 km

Tuesday, 15 March 2016

Victorian alps, March 2016


Saturday 5th March, 2016


 

Sydney - Nowra - Bungendore - Cooma - 420km


 


The opportunity arose at short notice to get away for a few days. Despite the rigours of a new pup in the house, my wife was gracious enough to permit a few days away, and on my return, she will have a few days away.

 

I have been looking forward to a couple of new roads (to me) in the Victorian Alps and East Gippsland. First day was to get to Cooma. This ride, from home down to Nowra and the back roads through Nerriga and Tarago are becoming very familiar though no less enjoyable. Sydney to Nowra on a Saturday morning is horrible. Loads of traffic and lots of roadworks.

 

Once through Nowra I head west on Braidwood road. That's where the fun begins. No traffic. No police persons. The wild blue yonder. Passed a few bikes and made good time to Bungendore for lunch, then on through Queanbeyan to Cooma. Got there about 3pm.

 

I had decided to stay at a different Motel this time. The Bunkhouse. If that sounds cheap, old and worn, well spotted. It was half the price of the motel I usually stay at in Cooma, and half as good. Though they did urge me to ride the bike into the courtyard in the middle of the Motel for safe keeping. Never mind, it was very close to the Alpine Hotel where I enjoyed some beer and dinner.

 
The Bunkhouse

Bike safe in the Bunkhouse courtyard


Sunday 6th March, 2016


Cooma - Khancoban - Corryong - Tallangatta - Myrtleford - Bright - 385km


 


Breakfast at the Food Lott, Cooma. Fantastic food and good coffee.

 

Left town about 9am. Great roads out here. Not much traffic. More Bikes. Through Berridale to Jindabyne. Quick stop for petrol and on past Thredbo and into Khancoban. I was feeling good so I kept going into Victoria and through Corryong. I was thinking of stopping for a bite to eat, but the travelling was good and I kept on going.

 

Got to Tallangatta and realised that I would get to Myrtleford about 1pm and decided to keep going. I knew an Italian Restaurant in Myrtleford that would fit the bill. Got there in good time, filled up with petrol and stooped at Delize Cafe and Deli which specialises in local product, Italian Style. I had Bruschetta which is probably the best I have ever had, and the coffee is always great. I had been here before with my wife. We just stopped for coffee, but the Italian salesman sold my wife a bucket a of Tiramisu which was devoured over a day or so. Been there twice and the memories are all good.

 
Delize, Myrtleford


Delize bruschetta


It's only 30 kms from Myrtleford to Bright, beautiful country with lots of crops, orchards and wineries. Very productive country.

 

I was in Bright fairly early. Again, I had opted for a Motel I had not been to before.The Coachhouse. The owner was a bike rider and took an interest in my bike and let me park in his special spot. The room was fine and big compared to the Bunkhouse.
The Coachouse, Bright

 

This motel was in the perfect spot. Directly across the road from the Bright Brewery where I spent my afternoon sampling the wares and listening to some live music. Kat Fish and the Harp played my kind of music and I possibly over indulged just a tad.

 
Live music at the Bright Brewery

Then back across the road to Tani Food and Wine right next door to the Coahcouse Motel. I had thought earlier on that some Duck would go down well. I had earlier checked the Chinese Restaurant, also very close, and was amazed to see no duck. Tani didn't let me down. Half roast duck with vegetables and a couple of glasses of wine. Fell back into the motel about 8pm and went straight to bed. It must have been the big ride.

 
Duck dinner at Tani Food & Wine

Monday 7th March, 2016


 

Bright - Mt Hotham - Omeo - Orbost - Delegate - Bombala - 433kms


 


Breakfast in Birght was at the Blackbird Cafe which had a very inviting menu. I settled for house made baked beans with smokey bacon, toasted sourdough, rocket and feta. Fantastic.

 
Breakfast at the Blackbird Café, Bright

This was to be a big day with two highly recommended roads that I had never ridden before.

 

The first was the Great Alpine Road out of Bright. the first section was beautiful coutry through Harrietville. From there you start to climb and the road becomes a very windy mountain road, but in good condition and with great views. The big caravans were a bit of worry, but I was usually able to overtake them fairly quickly. Eventually you emerge from the forests on to the top of mountains and ridges with amazing views that stretch in all directions. It continues like this until you come to Mt Hotham which feels like the top of the world. The buildings and layout of Mt Hotham reminded me very much of Thredbo except Hothham is right on top of the mountain, not down in the valley like Thredbo.

 
Mt Hotham scenery


Mt Hotham

Mt Hotham

Near Mt Hotham


After Mt Hotham the road opens up. Not so windy and narrow. But still great alpine country and some magnificent scenery. The next major town is Omeo, which looks like a very interesting place with old buildings, but with plenty of life about them. I didn't stop as I knew I had long way to go. Through Swifts Creek, Ensay and a quick stop at Bruthen for a stretch and toilet break. Then on to Nowa Nowa and Orbost for lunch and fuel.

 

The second road I was planning for the day was the Bonang Highway which goes north from Orbost, crosses the border to NSW and ends at Delegate. I was aware that there were a couple of unsealed sections and I was ready for that. While in Orbost I stopped for fuel and there were about 10 guys on bikes stopped there as well. They were returning from the Ulysses Club AGM held in Tasmania. They were heading back up to Sydney and I asked one of them if they were taking the Bonang. He looked at me as if I was a complete idiot and “No”. There was probably a message there.

 

The first 60 or so Kms was great. Lots of curves, never faster than about 80 Kmh, more often 30 or 40 Kmh. The road was fine, the country was wild and there was no traffic. Then the road narrowed, climmbed and became much more windy. I hit the unsealed section 11 km short of Bonang. When I think of an unsealed road I think of a straight flat dirt road, a bit slippery, but no real problem. This was a winding mountain track with tight corners, huge drops off the side, loose gravel and enormous corrugations which shook and rattled the bike mercilessly. This was very slow going and nerve racking. 20 kmh at best. The longest 11 kms I have ever ridden in my life. I finally got back on bitumen at Bonang, which although sounding like a town, is just a few houses on the side of the road.

 
The sign Bike riders love. Bonang Highway

The rest of the run into Delgate seemed like a picnic after that. But it did feel like an achievement. If I had known more detail about the road I probably wouldn't have done it.

 

No stopping at Delegate. Only 36 Kms into Bombala which was my destination for the night. And I was very glad to be there.

 

Finished up in the Bombala RSL for dinner, a hearty meal with no unnecessary embellishments.

 
Alpine loop. Two day ride.

Tuesday 8th March, 2016


 

Bombala - Bemboka - Bega - Tathra - Tilba - Bermagui - Burril Lake – 319 kms


 


Breakfast at Bombala Bakery and on the bike by 9.30am.  Followed the Monaro Highway up to the Bega turn off, Snowy Mountains Highway. I had never done this section before and was looking forward to it. The morning was absolutely beautiful. Clear blue sky. About 24c and not much traffic on the road. Snowy Mountains Highway takes you over Brown Mountain with lots of beautiful forests that open up to the valley below and the village of Bemboka. Coming down into Bemboka provided some of the most beautiful and greenest country I had seen on the entire trip. Absolutely stunning, lush green hills with contented dairy cows merely glancing in the direction of passing traffic.

 
Brown Mountain

I turned south on the Princes Hwy and went a few kilometres into Bega. Couldn't find a parking spot near the cafe in the centre of town so I continued through to Tathra and went down to the famous wharf. There was a sea mist on the water which gave it an eerie feeling. Coffee on the wharf watching fishermen on the edge. You could only see about 20 meters over the water before the mist obscured everything. Very atmospheric.

 
Tathra Wharf, with sea mist




I then followed the Tathra-Bermagui Rd north along the coast. I have ridden this road quite a few times now and it is very comfortable. A nice road with plenty of gorgeous sights along the way to keep it interesting. Through Bermagui and back on to the highway and a lunch stop at Tilba Tilba. Hard to go past this beautiful village without at least a cup of tea.

 

Then straight up the highway to Burrill Lake where I was spending the night with a friend that I had started school with in about 1961. Looking forward to a very pleasant evening.

 

Wednesday 10th March, 2016


 

Burrill Lake - Nowra - Berry - Oyster Bay – 205 kms


 


Jim and I had a fantastic night reliving many old stories over a couple of small beers. He cooked breakfast in the morning and sent me off feeling very happy with the world.

 

A 2 and a half hour trip up the Princes Highway, no stops. My wife had already left for her trip away and I had to get home to be on puppy duty.

 

1,870 kilometres later and ready for a quiet day or two.

 
Home to puppy duty