Friday 9th June 2017
Sydney - Eden
Another winter trip, this time south. On previous mid year rides I have decided to go north thinking it must be warmer. Now to put it to the test. I have done the Great Ocean Road twice before. Once on a bike and once in the car. The trip on the bike was wet and cold. This time I was going to be better prepared. Different bike. Different gear.
I had organised to have the Friday off and the following week which included a public holiday on the Monday. Don't know why, but I didn't stop to think that things might be busy on a long weekend. I'll never do that again.
It had been raining through the week and Friday morning was cool and very overcast. I had looked at the forecast and saw that Sydney was in for plenty more rain, but south, where I was headed, looked pretty good.
I got away about 8.30 and all was dry until I got to Gerringong. Even then it was only light drizzle and it really wasn't a problem. I had thought of stopping in Milton, but everything was going so well I just kept going, enjoying the bike and the road. Same story at Batemans Bay, Moruya and Narooma. Just kept going. Finally I started to get very low on Petrol so I stopped at Bega to fill up. Had thought I might get some coffee but just kept going. That was 400 km to the first stop. On earlier bikes I would be lucky to do 100km without having to stop for a stretch. The KTM is a perfect fit for me, and being able to stand up while riding really refreshes the back, legs and bum.
So I landed in Eden at about 2.30 which was quite a bit earlier than expected. No problem with that. A lie down, shower and changed and I wondered down to the pub for a few beers and a packet of chips, photos of which were dispatched to friend Richard. An early dinner at the Golden Ocean Chinese Restaurant, a final cup of coffee at the Fisherman's Club and back to the Motel for an early night. A job well done.
 |
| Under Cover - Twofold Bay Motor Inn - eden |
 |
| Eden Sunset |
Saturday 10th June 2017.
Eden - Orbost - Bruthen - Bairnsdale - Sale - Yarramundi - Foster
A beautiful blue sky greeted me in the morning as I searched town for breakfast. It was brisk, but I was feeling very confident. Breakfast done, I suited up and hit the road. Thermometer on the bike said 10c when I started which I thought was pretty good. I realised later that this was a result of the bike being in a closed garage for the night as the temperature reading started to drop.
 |
| Morning in Eden |
 |
| Eden |
As you get near the Victorian Border the road goes through a long stretch of dense forest of very tall trees. There was no direct sunlight in here and wouldn't be for some time. The thermometer dropped to 2c at its lowest. The bike started flashing ice warnings at me and everything was becoming very cold. I had worn the best thermals for this trip and I made good use of the heated hand grips and the heated seat. My feet were the only problem. They got quite cold, but never to an unbearable point.
By the time I got past Cann River and headed on to Orbost, I was finally getting some sun and it warmed up to about 10c. Heaven. I was in no stopping mode again and I went on to Bruthen before I stopped for a toilet break and a cup of coffee. A very nice little town which is at the bottom of the great Alpine highway and I have stopped here a few times before.
 |
| In Bruthen |
I then continued on the Princes Highway through Bairnsdale and on to Sale. Filled up with petrol here and then took the South Gippsland Highway, which goes down through Yarram. This is beautiful country, with lush green hills and dairy farms everywhere. Lots of happy cows watching me go past.
I had planned to stop at Leongatha for the night, but when I called the night before, both Motels were full. Well one wasn't, but would only take a 2 night booking. Hope their room stayed empty. This was the Long Weekend effect falling into place. As a result and perusal of the map, I had booked into the Wilsons Promontory Motel in Foster. A small town that calls itself the gateway to Wilsons Promontory. It turned out to be a pretty little town and the Motel was good value.
A few beers in the pub and a curry in the local Indian and I was done for the day.
 |
| Wilsons Promontory Motel - Foster |
 |
| Foster Pub |
Sunday 11th June 2017
Foster - Sorrento - Queenscliff - Barwon Heads - Lorne - Apollo Bay
Another clear blue sky and a balmy 10c when I left Foster. More dairy farming country and a fog had settled. Not enough to make riding dangerous, but enough to give the countryside a misty dream like quality which was absolutely beautiful. I really enjoyed the ride with very little traffic. Unfortunately that all ends as you get closer to the Mornington Peninsular and the area becomes very built up.
 |
| Breakfast in Foster |
It thins out a bit as you get to Sorrento where there are some beautiful old buildings. However, the long weekend effect was in play. It was busy. I hadn't booked on the ferry and wasn't sure If I would have a wait. As it turned out, I got there as the ferry was almost finished loading, bought my ticket, rode straight on to the ferry and by the time I got the bike settled we were moving away from the dock. I could not have planned the timing better.
The ferry trip was uneventful. I was able to stay outside because I was well dressed for the cool weather. I was expecting things to be quieter on the western side of the bay. I don't know why. Apparently the June long weekend is a popular time to drive the Great Ocean Road. It was pretty much a line of cars from the time I got off the ferry.
 |
| On the ferry |
 |
| On the ferry |
I went down through Barwon Heads where I stopped for petrol, then joined the queue through Torquay and on to Lorne. It might have been slow going, but at least the scenery is spectacular. There was no point trying to overtake anyone. There was no end to the line of cars.
 |
| Great Ocean Road |
Lorne was a traffic jam. There were thousands of people filling all the out door seating areas along the Main Street. West of Lorne, the traffic was a little bit lighter, but not much. I got to Apollo Bay about 3pm. I was so glad I had a room booked because it was packed as well. A few beers and fish and chips at the pub and I was ready for bed.
Monday 12th June, 2017
Apollo Bay - Port Campbell - Warrnambool - Port Fairy - Portland
Breakfast at the Bayleaf in Apollo Bay. Been there before and I recommend it. Very overcast morning. Looked like it was about to rain. By the time I got back to my room and started to get ready to leave it was raining. I thought about waiting for a while, but it didn't look like it was going to stop, so I packed up and hit the road.
This was almost identical conditions to the last time I left Apollo Bay on a bike. It still wasn't as cold as Eden. It got down to about 8c going through Cape Otway National Park, which is beautiful. But with the rain falling, a little fog and very twisty roads, it was slow going.
Once I emerged from the national park, near the 12 apostles, the rain had stopped, the temperature had risen to about 11c and I was thoroughly enjoying the ride and the scenery. I had a brief stop in Port Campbell for a photo opportunity and carried on through Peterborough and Warrnambool. Got a few more sprinkles along this stretch and the sky kept changing from mostly blue to about to rain.
 |
| Port Campbell |
I stopped in Port Fairy for a coffee and a wander around. A very nice town. This part of the ride from Warrnambool to Portland is a beautiful ride. Good roads and beautiful green countryside. I got to Portland about 2pm. I have never been here before and it turns out to be a very interesting place. The site of the first European settlement in Victoria, a history of sealing, whaling, fishing and a still working deep water harbour. Some beautiful old buildings and an interesting history. Walking along the waters edge I saw a few seals hanging around some people cleaning fresh court tuna and sting rays swimming underneath. Also the site of the first recorded massacre of Aboriginal people in Victoria in the Convincing Ground Massacre of 1833. This was over a beached whale that the local people claimed as their right. The Europeans turned up with their guns and killed somewhere between 60 and 200 people to "convince" them that their rights had been revoked.
 |
| Port Fairy |
 |
| Port Fairy |
On 30 March 2007, the Gunditjmara People were recognized by the Federal Court to be the native title-holders of almost 140,000 hectares of Crown land and waters in the Portland region. Who's whale is it now?
After a good walk around town I finished up having dinner at the restaurant of the Motel I was staying in. Very nice it was too.
 |
| Seals at Portland |
 |
| Portland |
 |
| Portland |
 |
| In a whale, in a Maritime Museum, in Portland |
Tuesday 13th June, 2017
Portland – Hamilton – Dunkeld – Halls Gap – St Arnaud – Wederburn – Echuca
A cloudy day, but no sign of rain. About 8c when I left Portland. That was becoming a comfortable temperature for me now. The gear was doing its job.
About 30 Km north of Portland I went through Condah, which consists of a pub, a church and a couple of houses. But not too far away is Lake Condah which is the home of very large, aboriginal built, stone eel traps dating back more than 6,000 years. Even more interesting are the remains of permanent stone dwellings around the area which ruined the Europeans theory that all aboriginals were nomadic hunter gatherers. Although this was discovered very early in European settlement, it was conveniently buried in the archives. My research had also told me that most of the area was now private property and difficult to access so there was no thought of trying to visit. The Turnbull Government has recently added the area to the World Heritage watch list and hopefully one day it will become a permanent listing. Then there may be better access to visit.
 |
| Stone dwellings - Lake Condah |
 |
| Eel traps - Lake Condah |
 |
| Eel Traps - Lake Condah |
By the time I approached Hamilton there was a heavy fog and I passed through the town without being able to see very much of it. It's not too much further to Dunkeld and by the time I got there the magnificent Grampian's were peeking out of the fog at me. I stopped for a coffee and to give the fog a chance to lift a bit more.
From here I was taking Grampian's Road which takes you through the Grampian's national park with the amazing peaks on both sides. I have driven this road in a car before, but this was the first time on a bike. The tops of some of the peaks were still wrapped in fog which gave the whole thing a beautiful but eerie look.
After Halls Gap you emerge from the national park and head into Stawell, the home of the Stawell Gift, a town that takes its athletic heritage very seriously, including the Stawell Gift Hall of Fame.
I was in “just keep going” mode again and I pushed on through St Arnaud and Wedderburn where I finally stopped for a toilet break and a stretch. I should have got petrol as well, but thought I had a couple more towns to go through.
What I didn't realise was that the GPS was taking me on some minor roads and missing the towns. I headed to Boort, but turned off just before it. Then headed for Durham Ox, but turned off just before I got there. Finally I was going through a tiny little place called Mitiamo. I had 50 Km to got to Echuca and the tank was saying empty. I searched Mitiamo and found the general store had a couple of bowsers hidden around the side. A more relaxed 50 Km ensued.
I got to Echuca about 2.30 and booked into a Motel before a wander around town, a few beers and a very pleasant dinner at Port53. The usual drill.
Wednesday 14th June, 2017
Echuca – Cobram – Yarrawonga – Rutherglen – Albury – Culcairn – Wagga Wagga
A cold and foggy morning in Echuca. 0.5c when I went to breakfast at the Black Pudding. By the time I hit the road it was about 2c. The fog was not enough to be a hazard, but enough to to give the paddocks that early morning dreamy quality that I was begining to like. Although riding in fog seemed to drop the temperature by 2 or 3 degrees. You could really feel the difference when you ride out of the edge of a fog and everything suddenly gets warmer.
M
 |
| Morning in Echuca |
I followed the Murray through Cobram, Yarrawonga and Rutherglen. Stopped for a coffee in Yarrawonga. It was warming up by then. 10c. Yippee. Through Albury/Wodonga and then up the Olympic Highway through the small towns of Culcairn, Henty, The Rock and Uranquinty before getting into Wagga about 2pm. Wandered the town until I found the Union Club Hotel which had everything I needed for the rest of the evening.
Thursday 15th June, 2017
Wagga Wagga - Goulburn - Oyster Bay
Last day on tour. A hearty breakfast at Jardine’s Cafe and I was on the road. About 3c when I left Wagga. Certainly a lot colder in these inland locations than around the coast.
Very familiar and uninspiring travelling on the Hume Highway. I didn't stop until I got to Goulburn for petrol and a hot beverage. It was still about 11c so I needed some thawing. The last stretch home was uneventful as well. Usually I rode this section after leaving Hay. Leaving from Wagga made the trip nearly 300 Km shorter, which certainly takes the edge off it. Home about 2.30 and ready for a rest.
 |
| Trip stats |
