Tuesday, 11 September 2018

Murray Bridge and back - August 2018


Saturday 25th August, 2018

 
The whole trip

Oyster Bay - Gundagai - Holbrook - Jingellic - Lake Hume- Beechworth

Day 1

Time to hit the road again. Victoria and South Australia. The aim is to get to Murray Bridge in SA. It’s only 70 Kms from Adelaide, but its far enough. Still winter, but the last trip up north was so bloody cold that North in winter and south in summer no longer holds water.

Saturday 25th August finally arrived and I hit the road at 7.40am. An overcast morning with a prediction of long overdue rain for Sydney. I got a few drops around Mittagong, but nothing of note. by the time I got to Yass the Sky was clearing into a sunny day. But chilly.  Had not got above 12c by then.

I carried straight on to Gundagai before I stopped. The Hume highway is so boring I was in danger of falling asleep so I decided to stop for fuel, food and coffee. After refueling I found the famous Niagara Cafe in the middle of town. At first I thought it wasn’t open, but I stuck my head in and there was one customer in there so I entered. A very reasonable steak sandwich and a double shot flat white got me me going. Biggest problem was getting into and out of the booth. It was built for much smaller people.




Back on the road through Tarcutta and on to Holbrook. Boredom set in quickly this time and I was again in danger of falling asleep. I had researched a side trip from Holbrook but decided not to do it because it added an extra 100 km to a 600km trip. But by this stage I was desperate to get off the Hume, so I turned off at Holbrook and took Jingellic road south to the small town of Jingellic on the side of the Murray river.

There is a bridge across the Murray and then I turned right on to Murray River Road which follows the Murray River down to lake Hume, the Hume Dam and then Wodonga. Murray River Road would have to be one of the most beautiful roads I have ridden. It twists and turns along the side of the river, looking over the changing widths of the Murray flood plain, all of it covered in lush green grass. No sign of the drought here.

Eventually came to the upper reaches of Lake Hume, but continued following it until I came to the Hume Dam. Stopped for a photo and then continued on. Only 15 km from Wodonga by this stage but the GPS made sure I didn’t go through it and took me to Beechworth by a few back roads.

In to Beechworth about 3.30pm after 700 Km. I was ready for a shower and little lie down which I enjoyed. I was in a different motel in Beechworth this time, the Beechworth Carriage Motel, and I must say it was a big improvement, and still very close to the center of town.

As it turned out, my friend Richard was in Beechworth with some old friends for a week of cycling the rail trails. I met Richard at the brewery for pre-dinner drinks and then we met his 3 comrades at the Empire Hotel for a fabulous meal and a good chat. An unexpected pleasure.
Brewery in Beechworth

Richard in the brewery

Beechworth in the morning

Motel in Beechworth

Sunday 26th August, 2018


Beechworth - Benalla - Shepparton - Bendigo - St Arnaud - Horsham


500 km
Day 2

Bacon and Eggs in Beechworth to get me going and I left town under a beautiful sunny, blue sky. 9c. a bit cool, but I was prepared.

Straight to Wangaratta where I got onto the Freeway to Melbourne. I was very keen to leave the freeway and finally took the Benalla exit and then followed some lovely country roads to Shepparton and on to Bendigo. And lots of very small places between these bigger towns.

The traveling was going so well that I went 400 km before my first stop at St Arnaud. Refueled an had a pie and coffee at a bakery. Small population, but a pretty town with some lovely old buildings.
 
St Arnaud
This left only 100kms to get to Horsham, my stop for the night. About 10kms before Horsham I went past the Horsham Motorcycle club that had literally 1,000s of people present and cars and trucks to match. It turns out that Horsham is hosting the world Junior Motocross championships this weekend. the first time they have been held in Australia. Fortunately I had booked a Motel room yesterday without any trouble.

Had a walk around town, checked out some possibilities for dinner and bought a few beers back to my room to start blogging.
Horsham

Horsham - Two Chinese restaurants side by side ?

Horsham

Horsham

Monday 27th August 2018


Horsham - Dimboola - Nihill- Bordertown - Keith - Coonalpyn - Tailem Bend - Murray Bridge


360 km
 
Day 3
Found a nice spot for breakfast in Horsham, Cafe Jas, that provided poached eggs with grilled capsicum, chorizo and feta on toasted sourdough. Very nice.

As I was leaving the motel some European gentlemen came to say hello. They had come from Europe for the Motocross championships and were staying at the same motel. One of them told me he had a KTM 990 back home and asked me a few questions about the bike and where I was from and where I was going. Very nice fellows.

As I left Horsham it was a beautiful crisp morning with a clear blue sky about 9c. I was well prepared for the temperature so the conditions were excellent. I was smiling in my helmet. First stop was only about 30 km away. Dimboola. Those of you old enough will probably remember that back in the 70s there was a very popular play called Dimboola about a wedding party in a small country town. It was then made into a movie in 1979 starring Bruce Spence and Max Gillies and a raft of other well known faces from the 70s. I didn’t realise at the time (1979) that there was a real town called Dimboola and that many scenes were actually filmed there.  today I had a cup of coffee there. It didn’t take long to have a look around.
 
Dimboola
from there it was on to Nihill, a quick ride through town and kept going. As I approached the South Australian border I started to see signs about quarantine stations and that no fruit was to be taken over the border. Then it dawned on me that I had a couple of punnets of blueberries in my bag that I had bought the night before in Horsham. I found a nice rest area with tables and chairs and toilets and I stopped and ate the blueberries. It turned out that the border was only another kilometer down the road and the quarantine station was closed. Oh well. I did the right thing. 

Park near VIC SA border - Green isn't it?


The first town cross he border was Bordertown SA which, amongst other things, boasted of being the birth place of Bob Hawke. Apparently you can visit his house, but I didn’t find it. Straight on to Keith where I stopped for fuel and then on to Coonalpyn.

This is a very small town where I wasn’t expecting to stop, but in the middle of town I suddenly saw right next to me some huge silos painted with a mural of kids. I did a double take. I had to stop and get some photos. I have seen these things on TV, but to be right beside one is just amazing. They are much bigger than I imagined.
 
Amazing.


Next stop was Tailem Bend which is on the Murray not far before it empties into Lake Alexandrina. Nice little town with lots of history. Found a nice coffee and friand.
 
Tailem Bend- Car ferry across the Murray in the distance


That only left 24 km to Murray Bridge, my destination for the night. Had a good walk around town. Lots of history to be seen here. An early dairy industry collecting milk and cream from surrounding towns by cart, river and rail and turning it into butter. Amongst many other things. The river is enormous at this point and it has played a crucial part in the development of the town.

The motel I’m in has a rather nice looking Vietnamese restaurant downstairs. Don’t think I’ll be going far tonight.

 
Murray Bridge

Murray Bridge

Murray Bridge

Murray Bridge

Murray Bridge

Murray Bridge

Tuesday 28th August, 2018


Murray Bridge – Tailem Bend – Lameroo – Pinnaroo – Underbool – Ouyen – Redcliffs – Mildura

 
Day 4
400 Kms

Found a very tasty breakfast in Murray Bridge at The Davery. On the bike and out of town about 8.30am. Another crisp morning with clear blue sky.

First 25k was a retrace of my steps to Tailem Bend, Then I took the Mallee Highway through lots of small communities. Much of the mallee in this are has been cleared to grow enormous grain crops, but you could still see patches of mallee along the borders.

Slightly unusual country side for me which made it interesting. Good roads, not much traffic and most of it 110kmh limits which kept me moving along nicely.

My first stop was Pinnaroo where I found the local bakery did a nice coffee and I indulged in a finger bun. They shouldn’t be allowed to leave them next to the cash register right under your nose. While parking the bike, I was next to a couple just getting back on their Harley to continue their journey home from Darwin as part of the 2018 Top End Black Dog ride in support of mental health. That’s a big ride. Pinnaroo is very close to the SA/VIC border and soon after leaving town I was in VIC and the clock went forward 30 mins.
 
Pinnaroo

Pinnaroo

I also had a stop at Ouyen where I think I saw the same couple back from Darwin saddling up for their next leg. Ouyen to Mildura takes you through some real, native mallee where you get a good idea of what the country is like.

I had tried to book into Robinvale for this night, but the local motel was booked out. Apparently there is a large solar farm being installed and the tradies have booked everything out. Still, Mildura is probably the best consolation town I can think of. Got in about 4pm and after all ablutions performed, reacquainted myself with the Mildura Brewery Pub and found dinner at Stefano’s Spanish Grill. A bit meaty, but very tasty.


Mildura

Mildura

Mildura

Wednesday 29th August 2018


Mildura – Robinvale – Balranald – Hay – Narrandera – Ardlethan – Temora


600 Kms
 
Day 5

I didn’t realise when I started this run how far it was. Not my biggest day, but not much to see on the way. Certainly nothing I haven’t seen many times before.


I did manage a lovely breakfast at Stefano’s café before I left town. About 80Ks down the road I made a quick detour to have a look at Robinvale where I had tried to book in for the previous night but it was full.

On to Balranald where I stopped for a coffee. Small, quiet town that hasn’t changed. Then Balranald to Hay. No more trees and dead flat as far as you can see. Amazing sight for the first 15 minutes, then it gets a bit dull.

In Hay, I went passed my brother’s house who happened to be sitting on his verandah reading the paper. I pulled in, completely unexpected, and had a chat for about 20 minutes. He was surprised to say the least. With his advice “don’t be on the road after about 4pm” ringing in my ears (kangaroos aplenty) , I didn’t stay long and set off towards Narrandera.

A fairly dull run to Narrandera and the turned north to Ardlethan and on to Temora. All very familiar country and roads here and I was happy to get into town and relax for a while.

I had planned to stay at Wagga this night, but just for something different I thought I would try Temora. Seemed like a nice town. I won’t make that mistake again. Dinner was a bit of a hurdle and I finished in the Ex-Servicemen’s Club which seemed to be the only option. Crumbed cutlets once again. First time this trip.

Thursday 30th August 2018


Temora – Yass – Gunning – Goulburn – Oyster Bay

 420 Kms

I was happy to be heading home by this time, so after breakfast at the White Rose Cafe I was on the road and heading to Yass. Seemed to be police cars everywhere today so I was being a very careful rider.

Straight through (around) Yass and onto Gunning where I stopped for petrol and coffee. Lovely little town, my second stop now and more to come.

From here on it all becomes a bit of a chore on the freeway as the traffic grows and grows approaching Sydney. One day I might find  a better way into and out of Sydney. Every way I have tried so far has been a pain.

Got home about 1.30pm ready for a nice lie down. Another successful trip and at 3,050 km, the biggest yet. 

3,058 kilometers at an average speed of 98Km/h in 30 hours and 8 minutes.


Thursday, 28 June 2018

Northern New South Wales - Winter 2018




Saturday 16th June, 2018


Oyster Bay -  Katoomba - Lithgow - Rylstone - Merriwa- Willow tree - Quirindi


Loaded and ready to go

470 Kilometres

Time for my first winter ride for 2018. I’m feeling pretty confident about cold weather touring after the last couple of years. But that may be in for a battering.

North in winter is the usual mantra and I planned exactly that this year. My usual path is through the mountains, the Bylong Valley and the up the New England Highway. A slight change this year. The usual start, including dumplings at Rylstone and into the Bylong Valley. 
Dumplings at Ryestone - again

 Prior to that, going through Katoomba and black Heath, the temperature dropped to 3c. I consoled myself with the thought that it shouldn’t last long.

Half way through the Bylong Valley, at the village of Bylong, I turned left on to Wollar rd. This is an unsealed road most of the way and added a bit of spice to the trip.

The road changed with soil type, as they do, so it went from hard packed clay to gravel to sand and various combinations of the above. Some areas had severe corrugations which I really don’t like.  There were a couple of moments where I thought to myself “what have I got myself into here”. But those moments didn’t last long and all in all it was a great road with some really good country that you would not normally see. Apart from a close call with an emu that decided to dash across the road, all went well.

This road bought me out at Merriwa where I turned left onto Scone road and then a quick left on to Coulson’s Creek Road. More dirt, but in pretty good condition. This took me through to Willow Tree on the New England Highway. Just out of Willow Tree I turned left on to the Kamilaroi Highway and a short trip to Quirindi, my stop for the night. I had been through before but this was my first overnight stay. Not much happens on a Saturday night in Quirindi. Fortunately, I’m good with that.

Qirindi
Evening sky  - Quirindi
Shop front - Quirindi


Sunday 17th June, 2018



Quirindi - Werris Creek - Tamworth - Walcha - Armidale - Ebor - Grafton- Casino



550 Kilometers

After a very country breakfast at a cafe in Quirindi, I left town just before 9am. It was 7c and I was content with the thought that it could only get warmer. It did. a bit. For a while. Through Tamworth it got up to 9c and I thought, here we go, warmth. But I had decided to go through Walcha for a small taste of the Oxley Highway and Thunderbolts Way.

The temperature slowly began to drop. As I approached Walcha on the Oxley Highway it hit 3c which threw up an ice warning on the dash. All the this time the wind had been increasing till it was incredibly strong. I’d say with wind chill it was about -5c. Approaching Walcha I started to notice something out of the corner of my eye falling to the ground, but I wasn’t quick enough to see it properly. Then I had drops of water running down my visor, although it was not raining. Finally I realised it was snowflakes that were turning to liquid as soon as they hit the visor. Cold.

I went through Walcha and decided to keep going in search of warmer weather. Usually on a Sunday morning at Walcha you would see many motorbike riders doing either the Oxley Highway or Thunderbolts Way. This day I was the only one stupid enough to be riding in the weather.
From Walcha to Uralla to Armidale to Ebor to Tyringham, the temperature hovered between 3c and 5c and the wind never let up. I was feeling cold. I had a few layers on, but most annoyingly, I had another pair of thermals in the bags that I could have been wearing. It was a matter gritting the teeth and getting on with it.
After Tyringham, as I continued up Armidale road to Nymboida, I finally got some shelter form the wind and the temperature started to rise.  By the time I got to Grafton it was about 15c. Heaven.

100km on to Casino and I was very happy to get in to a motel room and warm up.

Casino in the morning


Monday 18th June, 2018



Casino - Nimbin - Murwillumbah - Natural Bridge - Numinbah - Nerang - Beaudesert- Mt Lindsay - Killarney - Warwick



350 kilometres

Lots of country I have never seen before today. First stop Nimbin. I’ve heard so much about it over the years but I’ve never been there before. Absolutely magnificent country. Dramatic mountains, beautiful green valleys, tall forests and lots of flowing creeks and rivers. Wonderful road for motorbikes and not much traffic today. Nimbin looked very welcoming. I’m a big fan of hippies. I could be one. But Nimbin seems to be full of Hippie extremes. I’m sure they are all lovely. But seeing so many in one place was a bit unsettling. I’d probably get used to it.

Nimbin rocks

Nimbin


The road continues on to Murwillumbah. The scenery is just spectacular all the way and Murwillumbah looks like a great town. Then on to Nerang and then turn west to head for Beaudesert. I have found some wonderful town names on my travels, but Wonglepong is right up there. Not much of a town, but a great name.

I stopped in Beaudesert for fuel and lunch and then headed down Mt Lindsay Highway. I have done this section before and I love it. Twisty Mountain road that turns into a small back country road, with plenty of potholes, before going through Killarney and into the back of Warwick.

A beautiful clear blue sky all day and no colder than 12c. I put everything on leaving Casino, but by most first stop at Nimbin I had to remove a layer. If only I had done that the day before.

Warwick Hotel. Lovely but closed.


Tuesday 19th June, 2018



Warwick - Inglewood - Goondiwindi - Moree - Warialda - Inverell



470km

Another beautiful clear blue sky in Warwick. But cold. Around 4c when I went to breakfast. I left town about 8.30 when it was about 7c but slowly dropped to 5c. This is a long stretch. 100km to Inglewood. 100 km to Goondiwindi. After a half hour or so of travelling at 110kmh in 5c temperature the cold really starts to seep in. Even though I had all the layers on. Not as  old as my trip through Walcha on Sunday. But getting there. By the time I reached Goondiwindi it was up to about 9c. Nice.

A quick stop in a park for a toilet break and walk around and I was straight off to Moree. I thought the road from Goondiwindi to Moree, The Newell Highway, aka the middle of nowhere, would be fairly quiet. It was the busiest road since I left Sydney. Streams of semi-trailers and caravans. Most of them going north, but enough going south to keep me constantly overtaking.

Stopped for petrol in Moree. A balmy 15c by this stage. Feeling good so I headed off to Warialda on the Gwydir Highway. Very little traffic here and I had a nice ride. Went through a few herds of cattle that were on the road, not necessarily travelling, but eating the more plentiful feed in the road corridor. The long paddock.

A stop in Warialda for coffee and a sandwich and the last 50 k into Inverell. I had booked in to Inverell for 2 nights and thought I would have a day off to explore the town. I had been through Inverell once before and was amazed at the size of it and I have always intended to come back. It seemed like a good place for some r and r.

Wednesday 20th June, 2018



Inverell



A whole day of not going anywhere. The novelty wore off by the afternoon. I should have planned a day trip on the bike. Still I had a good look around town and did a lot of walking. That can’t be a bad thing.

McIntyre River at Inverell

Inverell graffiti

Inverell Morning


Thursday 21st June, 2018



Inverell – Bingara – Narrabri – Coonabarabran – Mendooran – Dunedoo – Gulgong – Mudgee



507 Km

After a quiet day in Inverell, I was ready to get back on the bike. Another cold morning and I put everything on. Turned out a god decision.

I had to retrace my steps to the village of Delungra and then turned left on to the minor road to Bingara. I saw a signpost at the turn pointing to the Myall Creek Massacre Memorial which I was keen to see. It was only 20 km down the road where I turned off to a parking area and followed a path to the memorial site. Very moving place and worth the trouble to find it. Fascinating but terrible story behind it can be found here.

Myall Creek - entrance

Myall Creek - car park with bike.

Myall Creek memorial

Myall Creek

I went through Bingara and on to Narrabri where I had a quick coffee break. From there I continued down the Newell Highway to Coonabarabran. This takes you through the Pilliga State forest, which looks to be a very interesting place, but you don’t see too much from the highway.

Narrabri on a winters day

 A fuel stop in Coonabarabran and then off to Mendooran and Dunedoo where I found a great pie at the Kakkadoo Kafé. Recommended.

A short trip then through Gulgong and into Mudgee for the night. My favourite “last night on the road” stopover. You can always get a good meal and a glass of wine and you only have a half day left to get home. Mind you, it is bloody cold in June.

Mudgee court house on a foggy morning

Friday 22nd June, 2018


Mudgee – Lithgow – Katoomba – Penrith – Oyster Bay



A freezing morning. Down to Café 89 for Mudgee Mushrooms for breakfast. My last pack up before setting off for home. Another clear blue sky, but chilly and a pretty good fog until I got passed Lake Windamere, and then it lifted quite quickly.

An uneventful trip home. No stops. By the time you get to Mount Victoria you hit the traffic, the trucks and the ever changing speed limits, maximum 80. It gets very annoying from there to home when you really miss those quiet country roads. Getting into and out of the Sydney area is the only downside of these trips.

Home just after 1pm with 2,679 lm on the clock for the 7 days. Feeling relaxed.

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