Snowy Mountains - December 2013

Friday 13 December, 2013

Sydney, Nowra, Nerriga, Bungendore, Queanbeyan, Cowra

 

Day 1

 

I decided to try and fit in a small bike ride before the madness of Christmas, so I arranged to have a Friday and Monday off to give me a 4 day weekend.

Friday the 13th arrived and I got away from home about 8.30 am and headed straight down the Princes Highway to Nowra. Never really enjoy this freeway traffic. I can't believe how many drivers don't know how to drive on a freeway with courtesy and respect for other drivers/riders, But that's another story.

Coffee at Berry and petrol stop at Nowra and then the fun stuff starts. Braidwood road goes around the back of Nowra airport / HMAS Albatross and off into the wild blue yonder. Quite a good road with hardly any traffic at all, and plenty of long straights for overtaking the few cars you come across. Changing scenery from open valleys, thick scrub to pine forests. I presume that's where Turpentine Road gets it's name from.

A few twisties and you go through the tiny town of Nerriga. I have thought about having a look at the Nerriga Pub, but both times I have been through here has been about 11am in the morning and it just doesn't seem right stopping at a country pub at that hour. I can't imagine asking for a skim flat white at the Nerriga Pub in the morning. I could get run out of town.

Braidwood Road becomes Nerriga Road which turns into Oallen Ford Road and then turns on to Sandy Point road which turns to Cullulla Road which takes you into Tarago. All of these roads take you through real wilderness country with few signs of human habitation. What's commonly known as the middle of nowhere. Love it. On Oallen ford road there is an old single lane timber bridge which goes across the Shoalhaven river, which at this point is wide, shallow and flowing steadily. On either side of the bridge there are wide areas of dry, rocky riverbed with the stream only taking a small proportion of it. Today there must have been half a dozen or so large caravans hooked up to large four wheel drives parked on either side of the road next to the river. On one side, and quite close to the road, 2 mature gentlemen (grey nomads?) had a sluicing operation set up and were hard at it. There may be gold in them thar hills.

 I remember last time I came this way I kept worrying that I might miss one of the turns. But also like last time, I was relieved to find that all the turns I needed were well sign posted to Tarago because this was the quick way for people from Canberra to get to Nowra, and anywhere that people from Canberra need to go seems to get reasonably well looked after.

With one small exception. When I came this way in March, there was about three kilometres of Oallen Ford Road that was not sealed, but there was a large contingent of men and equipment working on it. I thought by today it would be sealed right through. When I came to that spot I found a nice new tarred road for the first 2 Kms and then 1 Km of dirt road and not a man or machine in sight. They had obviously decided that 2 out of 3 kilometres was quite enough, pack up and went home. Fortunately it was nice and dry. Just dust to contend with.

Through Tarago, thought again about stopping at the loaded dog Hotel, but it was the whole country pub, morning, skim flat white situation again. It's a shame Australia doesn't have a series of historic cafes to visit instead of it always being a pub.

Tarago is also curtained on one side by a mountain range crowned with a row of enormous wind turbines that seem to go on for Kilometre after kilometre. Finally the run into Bungendore and a stop at the Gunna Doo Bakery for a pie and cup of coffee.

From there it’s a fairly easy run through Queanbeyan and down the Monaro Highway to Cooma. A couple of beers, some dinner and an early night, ready to conquer Kosciusko national park tomorrow.

 

Sunset in Cooma

Cooma Street

Same sunset

 

Saturday 14 December, 2013

Cooma, Adaminaby, Old Adaminaby, Cabramurra, Khancoban, Thredbo, Jindabyne.

 

Day 2

 

 A good start to the morning at Cafe 40 in Cooma. I have eaten here before and they do a great breakfast. It has an Irish Theme, Irish names for the various meals, Irish music playing in the background. I had the full Irish breakfast. Not sure what makes it Irish, but it's bloody good.

 From Cooma I followed the Snowy Mountains highway. Lots of open rolling hills in a patchwork of green and brown. A few farm houses and sheds scattered throughout the landscape. Very little traffic in either direction. It is easy to understand why so many motorcycle riders come down this way. This sort of country is just fantastic to ride in. Good roads rarely straight. Lots of corners, not so sharp that you have to slow down, but sharp enough to get a good lean on and really know you are riding a bike. And beautiful scenery as well. The temperature varied between 16 and 20 which is ideal when you are wearing riding gear. nice and fresh.

Edge of Lake Eucumbene - Old Adaminaby

 

A Short trip to Adaminaby, a stop for petrol, a look at the big trout and the Snowy Mountains Scheme Museum and that was it. Pretty place, but not much of it. I was keen to see the site of Old Adaminaby which was 6 Kms away. In the 1950s, Adaminaby was moved when Lake Eucumbene was filled as part of the Snowy Scheme. The town was moved and most of the old town was submerged. Today, There is a small community thriving there, mostly holiday homes and caravan park built around fishing on the lake. Quite a few houses on the hillside above the lake. A few old foundations are still visible down by the lakes edge, but there is not much more to be seen of Old Adaminaby.

 

Cabramurra

Cabramurra lookout

 

Not far from Adaminaby I turned off Snowy Mountains Highway on to Link Road and started heading into mountain country. This is all in the Kosciusko National Park and most of the roads here were built as part of the snowy Mountain Scheme. The first town is Cabramurra, the highest permanently settled town in Australia. It was built as a camp for Snowy Scheme workers and is now populated entirely of Hydro power employees and their families. The town is made up of rows of identical houses with steep roofs, designed and built specifically for the location and heavy snow falls. It is very close to Tumut 2 power station and pondage.

 

Link road - Snowy Mountains

Lnk road - snowy Mountains

 

It was not far from here that I saw a herd of wild brumbies grazing by the side of the road. I stopped and walked towards them to get some photos. As I got to within about 100 meters of them they looked at me and wandered off in another direction, not terribly concerned.

 

Wild Brumbies beside the road

 

After Cabramurra you are in real mountain country with lots of twists and turns and steep slopes. Every now and then you crest a hill and get the most magnificent views of valleys and mountain ranges disappearing into the distance. It really is amazing country.

 

Near Cabramurra

Near Cabramurra

 

The Link road become Goat Ridge road and then Tooma road. At both Tumut pond reservoir an Tooma reservoir the road goes across the top of the dam wall. Beside both of these dams is extremely dramatic topography with water reservoirs well below maximum capacity and very steep walls of man mad earth and rubble, all surrounded by steep mountain cliffs.

 

Tooma pondage

Tooma Pondage

 

Eventually the mountain roads relax a little and open out into longer straight valleys as you approach Khancoban. This is another town that was originally constructed to accommodate workers of the Snowy Mountains scheme but has survived As a standalone community. I stopped at the pub for lunch and when I went inside and saw a large brindled dog asleep in front of the bar I immediately felt at home. Mind you, lunch was ordinary.

The next leg was through the Kosciusko National Park, around Mt Kosciusko and passed through Thredbo and on to Jindabyne. I had done this before in the opposite direction and previously had found it a challenging road.

This time I did not find it so challenging. I think mainly because I was a lot more familiar with the bike this time, I was more relaxed and I took my time. Whatever the cause, the result was an enjoyable trip. I found and stopped at the same rest area that I stopped at the last time through with a close look at the beautiful mountain stream passing through the rest area.

 

Stream at rest area - Kosciusko National Park

 

When I got to Thredbo I turned off the main road and went down through the village which is fairly quiet at this time of year. It amazes me how different the architecture is in this town compared to anywhere else I have ever seen. This is an alpine town, clinging to the side of a mountain and looking up at another mountain with long bald strips  to allow skiing runs and still, silent chairlifts waiting for the next winter and the crowds of tourists wanting to avail themselves of the services.

 

Between Thredbo and Jindabyne

Thredbo River - between Thredbo and Jindabyne

 

But now, It is quiet and peaceful. A few people around making the most of the summer bushwalking and the beautiful scenery.

On to Jindabyne and the search for overnight accommodation. My first attempt was the Lake Jindabyne Hotel Motel. I stopped at the reception area and read the notice that they were closed and I should report to the bottle shop to check in. I did. I stood in the Bottle shop waiting to be served. I pushed the button. I shouted hello. A man put his head around the door and said " she'll be with you in a  minute mate" I waited another 10 minutes. Another customer came in to the bottle shop, and looked at me said "you've got to wake 'em up" and yelled out a couple of times. A new man stuck his head around the corner and said "she'll be with you in a minute" I gave it another minute and decided I didn't want to stay in a motel run by these people. Back on the bike, back up the road, I found Rydges. I walked into the reception and I was welcomed with open arms. They couldn't do enough for me. I paid a bit more than usual, but it was worth every cent.

It was seafood Saturday at Rydges so it was a dozen fresh oysters, half a kilo of fresh prawns and a couple of Corona's for dinner. Fantastic.

My exorbitant priced accommodation included breakfast, so I think it turned out to be a very good deal.

Sunday 15th December

Jindabyne, Dalgety, Bombala, Cathcart, Candelo, Bega, Tathra, Bermagui, Tilba Tilba, Narooma, Bodalla Moruya.

 

Day 3

 

 An early breakfast and off down Snowy River Way. The first section to Dalgety is typical windy road up and down hills. Farms, Cows and beautiful scenery.  Dalgety was a very sleepy town on a Sunday morning. I did not see one person through the town. Maybe they were still asleep. Unlikely in a country town. Maybe they were all at church. Possible on a Sunday morning. Maybe they were still finishing off the Saturday night rave. Unlikely. Whatever the reason, there was no one there.

From Dalgety it was on to Bombala. This road was a revelation. Moving from hill to valley, there were practically no trees, large boulders and occasional farm houses. You could see ahead for kilometres. No traffic, No policeman. It was almost impossible not to go very fast.

 

Snowy river Way between Dalgety and Bombala

Snowy river Way between Dalgety and Bombala

 

Eventually the Snowy River Way turns on to the Monaro Highway and a short time later brings you into Bombala. A lovely old town, I stopped for coffee and met a group of bike riders there that had been doing some off road riding.

From Bombala I headed out the Bombala Cathcart Road until Reached the tiny village of Cathcart where my road became the Mt Darrah Road until Wyndam. Mt Darrah road would take you through to Pambula, but I turned off at Wyndham onto the Myrtle Mountain Road. The country had changed by now into mountainous terrain with thick forests of tall trees with thick foliage of large ferns at the base. The road was windy with lots of hairpin turns and slow going but beautiful.

 

Myrtle Mountain

 

 Eventually I arrived at Candelo. A lovely old town, although there didn't seem to be anywhere to get a cup of coffee.

 Next stop was Bega where I had planned to have some lunch, but I had got here quite early and I was still digesting breakfast, So I decided to keep going.

 I went out to Tathra and headed north on the Tathra Bermagui road. This takes you through a couple of state forests and generally along the coast and across a number of long bridges crossing rivers and lakes where they empty into the sea.

Finally to Bermagui where I stopped for lunch. I won't tell you where because it wasn't very good. From Bermagui it's not far back to the Princes highway and almost immediately I took the turn to Tilba Tilba. A lovely historic village where I knew I could do some shopping. The following day, When I would get home, was our 27th wedding anniversary and I knew my wife would be surprised if I remembered. So a bit of shopping in Tilba Tilba and I was set. On to Narooma, Bodalla and finally Moruya where I had decided to stop for the night. Motels seemed to be few and far between in Moruya, But I found one, Checked in, performed my ablutions and found a nice Thai restaurant for Dinner.

 

Tilba Tilba

Motel at Moruya - in for the night

Air Raid Tavern Moruya - closed unfortunately

 

 

Monday 16th December

Moruya, Batemans Bay, Milton, Nowra, Wollongong, Oyster Bay

 

Day 4

 

 A good night’s sleep and a wander up to the Red Rose café for breakfast and all was well. There had been some rain overnight, the ground was wet, but I had not heard a thing. It was still overcast and I set off from Mourya about 9.30 with all the wet weather gear on. It drizzled for a while until I stopped in Milton for coffee. When I left Milton it was raining a bit heavier. I really don’t mind riding in the rain at all as long as I am prepared for it, and today I was well and truly prepared. The Shoei helmet I bought a few months ago is the best I have ever used in the wet. Usually the worst thing about riding in the rain is the low visibility because the rain drops stick to the visor and makes it hard to see. With this helmet, the water ran straight off so that I never had an issue with it. Worth every cent for that alone.

It was an uneventful trip, back on the main highway and bit more traffic that I had had the last 3 days. As usual, South Nowra was a nightmare with road works. Traffics crawled for about 10Kms. One thing big motorbikes are not good at is going very slow.

Once through Nowra it was a quick run home and I arrived bearing anniversary gifts. Always a good way to return.

1,365 enjoyable kilometres.

 

The full trip

 

Live in Mudgee. One Night Only.

Friday 18th October, 2013

Katoomba, Rylstone, Mudgee 

My friend Richard, formerly referred to as the gourmet historian, has been keen for some time to go for ride on the bike for an overnight stay. We finally set a date and decided that Mudgee would be an appropriate distance and an appropriate destination. About 4 hours away with some good local wine and restaurants to make the stay interesting. 

Intrepid Travellers full of joie de vivre and ready to go

 

On the Friday morning, the only doubts were the fact that there were severe bushfires burning in the Blue Mountains where we were about to head. We got away about 9.30 on a lovely sunny day and headed west. We had Bluetooth headsets in the 2 helmets so we could chat along the way. 

I had done this part of the trip only a month before so there were no surprises. The traffic wasn’t too bad, but the smoke in the air got heavier as we went up the mountains. 

We arrived at Katoomba in time for morning tea and we turned off the highway and went down to the main part of town. Parking the bike we wandered down the street and were amazed at the number of coffee shops we passed in a very short distance. We selected one and sat down ready for coffee and breakfast for Richard. Afterwards he gave it his seal of approval, and he knows about these things.

Back on the road and off to Lithgow where one of the major fires had already been burning for 2 days. The smoke was heavy over the town. We did not stop, but headed out on the Castlereagh Highway and then on to the Bylong Valley way through Kandos and Rylstone. Richard had been on the bike a couple of times before for short trips and the only issue he had was once falling asleep on the back and nearly falling off going around a corner, so we were both aware of keeping him awake. On this part of the trip at one point climbing a hill and going around a sweeping left hand corner, I made the mistake of admiring the sweeping vista to the right. When I looked back we were heading to the wrong side of the road and there was an oncoming car about 100 meters away. I quickly corrected and I wouldn’t say it was a close call, but I don’t think there was much chance of Richard going to sleep after that. 

We were both aware of a Chinese dumpling restaurant in Rylstone that had been in the Good Food Guide for a few years and we were determined to find it. Richard is reluctant to eat anywhere that is not in the Good Food Guide. While at coffee in Katoomba I had read to him from a review of 29 Nine 99 (the dumpling restaurant in Rylstone {Click here for review}) which went in to some detail of the background of Na Lan and how she came to Australia and opened a restaurant in Rylstone. 

Richard put this to good use. Na Lan came and had a chat to us at lunch and he was able to greatly impress her by asking questions pertinent to her background and mentioning her husband by name. Richard often demonstrates his interviewing skills by having asked a complete stranger 10 probing questions in the time it would take me to say “Hello, how are you”?. 

The restaurant was in a beautiful old 2 story sandstone building that had once been a bank. We sat in a courtyard between the main building and another single storey sandstone building that had been the bank manager’s residence. And the food was fantastic, including a home prepared Chinese style tea.

Dumplings in the courtyard at the 29 Nine 99 in Rylstone

 

From Rylstone it is a short hop to Mudgee through lovely green rolling hills. As you get closer to the town, vineyards stretch out on either side of the road which I think always makes for more exotic scenery. 

We got into Mudgee and checked in to our pre-booked Motel. Not Richard’s choice. He would have preferred the upmarket Cobb & Co which was booked out. He was kind enough not to complain about it too much throughout the night. 

In the Motel. Boots off.

 

After ablutions and a change from the travelling gear it was off to the Mudgee Brewing Company (Click here for website) which had 6 of it’s own regular beers on tap plus a couple of specials. The 100 year old building had been a wool and skin store and the high ceilings, timber beams and large space made it ideal for the current use. All the brewing tanks were down one side of the building and the rest was an open space where beer and food was served. Live entertainment was on several nights per week. 

We started working our way through the beers. In large glasses. Some of which were up to 8% alcohol. Needless to say after 2 ½ hours of that we were feeling pretty happy with the world. After we had tried all the beers and Richard had interviewed a few of the staff we decided it was time for dinner. 

 

The Mudgee Brewing Company. Yeee-Haa.

 

Richard had his heart set on Elton’s a restaurant nearby (click here for website). You guessed it. The Good Food Guide. We had wandered in pre-brewery and he had suggested booking and I said that it didn’t matter because there were plenty of options if they were full. So now, about 7pm we walked in and the waitress told us they were booked. I received some very dark looks from my travelling companion who had decided that this was my fault for not booking earlier.  I was far too full of Mudgee Brewery medicine to be the least bit concerned. So we were out of the restaurant and wandering up the street when said waitress came up behind us to say she had made a mistake and there was a table available. Disappointment turned to elation in a split second. We were in, seated and perusing the menu feeling all was right with the world after all.  Selecting an entrée and main course each, a suitable bottle of local red wine and we deep into the idle chit chat before the food arrived. 

Sunset in Mudgee. En route from Brewery to dinner.

We each had a different entrée, but about half way through, Richard discovered that his Duck Cannelloni and my Crisp Pork Belly and Seared scallop were both surrounded by the same brown sauce. He was able to conclusively confirm this by dipping his finger into my sauce and tasting it. The dark clouds began to appear. 

The main course arrived, lamb Cutlets for one , beef for the other both accompanied by various vegetables. After applying the finger dipping test it was determined that both main courses had the same brown sauce as both entrees. This was almost too much for Richard. The elation had turned to concern earlier and now turned to indignation. The meal (which I must say I thoroughly enjoyed) was ruined. No coffee, no dessert. Let’s get out of here. 

That's a cheeky little number. Elton's. Pre-Brown Sauce

 

So back on the street we found a beautiful old shop that had been converted to a bar/nightclub/restaurant called Sajos (click here for website). We entered, increasing the clientele from zero to 2. The 3 staff members looked unimpressed. We had coffee and dessert and a glass of wine, which probably wasn’t necessary. They had a baby grand piano turned to the wall and covered in a sheet. When I enquired about it a staff member said that they hide it because customers kept trying to play it. I had to laugh because that was precisely what was in my (tipsy) mind. By the time we had finished, two other men had come in, but the staff had put up the closed sign on the front door. Way too many customers apparently.

We staggered on back to the Motel, wisely deciding not to go into another pub we passed along the way. Within half an hour Richard was passed out on his bed and I had a quiet read.

 

Saturday 19th October, 2013

Mudgee, Blackheath, Penrith, Sydney

Richard had already selected the Market street Café (click here for review) for breakfast and this time everything went according to plan. Eggs Benedict all round with local eggs, local ham, perfect Hollandaise and fresh squeezed local oranges. Lashings of coffee for me and Tea for Richard (I don’t drink coffee early in the morning). 

Perusing the breakfast menu. Eggs Benedict I think.

 

A quick walk around the Saturday morning farmers market and it was back to the motel for some helmet modifications and then back on the road. 

We had discussed going on to Orange for a second night, but Richard had some family issues and decided that he should be getting home.

It was a beautiful morning leaving Mudgee. Sunny, blue sky, no wind, not too hot and not too cold. The sort of conditions that make you feel like staying on the bike all day.

When we came down into Lithgow, it was blanketed in Smoke. Fire had been burning for 3 days by that stage and the morning was very still so the smoke was sitting there like a heavy fog. We stopped for petrol and then headed for Blackheath.

 Mt Victoria again seemed to be the closest we got to the fires with thick smoke rising from the valley beside the highway. We found a very nice coffee shop in Blackheath where Richard had his triple shot morning heart starter. It was too early for lunch so we thought about somewhere to stop for lunch before getting home. The last major centre before hitting the metropolitan area was Penrith so we decided we would stop there. This was our one big planning mistake of the trip. 

After the tranquillity and beauty of Katoomba, Rylstone, Mudgee and Blackheath, Penrith was a nightmare. As soon as we got off the freeway we were in a traffic Jam and it was getting hot. We crawled through Penrith to the main shopping centre and went looking for somewhere to eat. Nothing at all in the Good Food Guide, so, much to Richard’s disappointment, we had to make do with a small Japanese sushi and noodle house. We survived.

We made good time after Penrith. At this stage on the M7 was my only moment of panic. Travelling at 100kmh the car in front of us threw up a very large piece of plastic into the wind right in front of us. When I say large I mean something like a double mattress cover. I hit the brakes, although we were too close to it to actually stop. Fortunately we went straight over the top of it and never missed a beat.

We decided a quick beer at the Como Hotel was good way to finish the trip. We drank it talking about where the next adventure might take us.

 

Last beer at the Como. Trophy in the background.

 

The trip

 

What's in a name

If you have been here before you might remember that this blog was called "The Thunderbird and I". At that time my motorcycle was a 2010 Triumph Thunderbird. And a bloody beauty it was too.

The Thunderbird

But since February 2013, my motorcycle has been a 2013 Triumph Trophy SE. Hence the new name. "The Trophy Life".

The Trophy

An open letter to every person I meet who finds out I ride a motorcycle - by Carter Edman - Love this article

Let me stop you right there, mmmm-kay? I can tell by that little intake of breath what’s coming next. Thank you in advance, but I already know that motorcycles are “dangerous.” After nearly twenty years of riding on the streets, I am aware; telling me now will not be a revelation. It is not an insight into my lifestyle that has remained hidden from me until this, the moment of epiphany when you shine the light of outsider wisdom on my foolhardy choices.

There are ways I can minimize the risk — by riding defensively, riding sober, knowing my own and my machine’s capabilities, etc. — but I also know there are some risks that are simply beyond my control. But you know what? There a lots of risks that are within my control. We’ve become so pathologically risk-averse that for most people it is inconceivable to assume any additional risk no matter how much joy you might get back in return. 

You want to know what’s truly dangerous? Not taking any risks. Hanging out with like-minded middle-of-the-roaders. Absorbing the same brain-ossifying shit from media factories every day. Jogging. Putting helmets, flotation devices, and auto-deploy epi-pens on your kids every time they leave the house. Passivity. Not paying attention to where your car, or your life, or you country is going. 

If you don’t get that, that’s OK. I’m not trying to convert anybody, but here are a few tips to save us both a little aggravation:

You don’t need to tell me the horror story about your uncle’s buddy who wiped out his chopper while drag racing at some hooligan rally. That just makes me wish I were talking to your uncle’s buddy instead of you. He sounds pretty cool.

Do not — do NOT — tell me about the time you almost Sausage Creatured a biker because you “couldn’t see him” or he “came out of nowhere.” I have never known a bike to come out of nowhere, but I have seen plenty of cars pull a Crazy Ivan and turn into a lane occupied by a biker or make an impromptu unsignalled left turn in front of an oncoming me. If you’re expecting me to share your outrage at the temerity of bikers to be in the lane you want, you’re more deluded than a goldfish with a passport. I can’t make you see bikes. I can’t make you hang up your phone. They won’t let me mount a .50-caliber machine gun to my bike. So really, there’s not much I can do to change the outcome of your anecdote, so save it for your coreligionists who also have stick-figure families and giant softball stickers with the name “Tailyr” or “Flynn” or “Shyly” on their rear windows.

I do wear a helmet, as a matter of fact, along with other protective gear. But, the fact that you “certainly hope” I wear a helmet is so condescending it makes me want to ride a tricycle completely naked doing doughnuts in your front yard screaming Beastie Boys lyrics at midnight. Trust me, you do not want that. My buttocks are extremely pale and unsightly, especially in moonlight.

Please, do not complain about bikes parking in car parking spaces. Where are we supposed to park? If they let us park up on the curb like in Europe, we would totally do that, and precious few parking lots have motorcycle parking areas. Most cops already have a hard-on for bikes, so parking anywhere but in a designated spot is asking to be impounded.

Yes, I know, some bikes have very loud exhaust. Maybe it’s obnoxious, but at least you knew they were there, didn’t you? They say loud pipes save lives. I don’t know if that’s true, because there hasn’t been a serious comprehensive study of motorcycle safety since 1981, the poetically named Hurt Report. And yes, I know, at one point you probably saw some kid riding his 600cc sport bike at 100mph doing a wheelie down the freeway. He’s a squid, and he’ll either grow up or just take care of himself. Some bikers do crazy things. Anti-social things. Unsanctioned things. I don’t represent him and he doesn’t represent me — that’s the great part of being a biker.  I could be a Lowbrow Weirdo or Antoine Predock or Lyle Lovett or just whatever I want to be.

If you’re really so all-fire concerned about my safety, don’t preach at me. Just do me this one favor:  pay attention when you’re driving. Keep your greasy fingers off your touch-screen, put down your phone, use your turn signals and lay off the booze before you get on the road with me. You take care of your part and I’ll take care of mine.

But hang-gliding, man, that shit is crazy.

Carter Edman is an architect, writer, and rider in Cleveland, Ohio. He teaches “Motorcycles and American Culture” and other courses at Case Western Reserve University.

Nambucca Heads - September 2013

 

Saturday 14 September 2013

Penrith, Katoomba, Lithgow, Kandos, Rylstone, Denman, Muswellbrook

 

My wife has been doing a bit of house sitting again, this time for our ex neighbours who have moved to Nambucca Heads. I had a week off to go and spend some time with her, but wanted to make it a bit of a bike adventure as well. So I decided to take the long way to Nambucca over 2 days, allowing me to see some of the inland towns I hadn't been to before and also avoid the Pacific Highway.

I got away  from home about 9.30 on the Saturday morning and made for the M5 and headed towards Liverpool. No fun here. Traffic everywhere. Great caution required at all times. At Liverpool I got on the M7 which took me up to the intersection with the M4 and left towards the mountains. A lot of Ms I know. Going this way always makes me realise how lucky I am to be so close to the Southern edge of Sydney and to be able to be out of the city in about 10 minutes form my home.

Anyway, up the M4 to Penrith and then up the mountains. I realise that this is the first time I have ever ridden a motorbike up to the Blue Mountains. Unfortunately I will not be doing it again in a hurry. Traffic is constant and speed limits change continually, rarely getting above 80. Occasionally you get a glimpse of a beautiful valley stretching away on either side, but they only last for seconds and don't make up for the riding conditions.

Finally, approaching Lithgow the country starts to open out and the traffic thins. You can now start to ride more freely and take in a bit of the surrounding scenery. I stopped in Lithgow for coffee and to give the old buttocks a break, and then headed into uncharted waters.

From Lithgow I remained on the Great Western Highway for only a short distance before turning on to the Castlereigh Highway to head for Kandos. Just after Ilford I turned right on to the Bylong Valley way. This was to be one of the highlights of the trip. I got to Kandos and decided to stop for lunch.

 

I filled up with petrol first then I rode through town and checked a couple of likely looking venues. I came across a café/motorcycle museum that seemed perfect. I parked and went in. There was nobody else there which should have been a sign. There were lots of things for sale, mainly clothing, motorbike related, and not at what I would call “budget” prices. There was a section of the cafe “walled” off with a heavy black curtain guarding the entrance. This was the museum section and it was going to cost $6 to enter. I decided to check the menu first, which was a good thing because they had nothing that I was willing to eat and I assure you I am not that fussy. With very few misgivings I decided to forgo the hidden treasures behind the black curtain and find somewhere that had some acceptable food.

The Kandos pub had a couple of bikes parked out the front so I thought that was as good an invitation as I was going to get. A classic country pub serving counter lunches as they should. I have been trying to stay off carbohydrates of late and I thought the lamb cutlets and vegetables would be a safe bet.  Imagine my surprise when it turned out to contain a very large portion of chips, two large scoops of mashed potato and a couple of slices of white bread on the side. Needless to say that by the time I had finished the aforementioned items remained and still looked like a sizeable meal. I should add that the lamb cutlets, peas, beans, carrots and corn were very nice.

 

Looking out the front window of the Kandos Hotel

From Kandos it was on to Rylstone. A lovely town with a very large group of motorcycles gathered around the pub in the middle of town. They had the good sense to bypass Kandos and go the extra few kilometres to Rylstone. Too late for me. I was full of food and petrol so it was on to the mythical Bylong Valley.

 Bylong Valley Way stretches from Rylstone to Denman in the upper hunter valley. I have heard that it is a good ride and it certainly lived up to that reputation. The road is mostly very good, a bit narrow and a few rough spots, but generally in good order most of the way.  Much of the 140 kilometres is through a beautiful, fertile valley with some areas having magnificent, dramatic cliff faces on either side. The road winds snakelike along the valley, contented cows watching on from the lush, green pastures. There a a couple of twisty climbs and drops as you cross a mountain from one valley to another, all of which makes for an interesting and exciting motorbike ride. When I left Sydney in the morning, the skies were overcast and threatening, in the blue mountains it looked like it was about to pour, but by the time I  got to Bylong the sun was shining in a clear blue sky. The Bylong Valley is what motorcycle touring is all about. Going a little bit too fast, enjoying leaning the bike through the corners, surrounded by beautiful scenery. What more could you want.

 

On the Bylong Valley Way

The Bylong valley way ends at a t intersection with the Golden Highway which takes me into the town of Denman. I  have heard a bit about Denman from friends who have spent some time here and it is indeed a nice little town.  I found a nice spot for a cup of coffee and had a chat to an older gent also on a bike who was curious to know where I was from and where I was off to. 

 I then headed to Muswellbrook on Denman Road. Before reaching Muswellbrook I could see huge dark grey mountains on either side of the road and I eventually realised that these were the visible signs of open cut coal mines. What they do to the country side does not make a pretty picture. In looking at satellite pictures of the area, these mines are bigger than medium size towns.

Muswellbrook was another lovely old town with some great old buildings. I had booked a motel room here for the night and I was in the room  hitting the shower by about 4.30 in the afternoon. A long soak and lie down to read the paper and I was ready to venture down town. If Saturday night is a big night in Muswellbrook, I would not like to see a quiet night. I had a beer in the RSL Club, a beer in a pub and then found the Muswellbrook Chinese Restaurant. One person in a Chinese restaurant can be a bit limiting, so I try to find one dish to get me through. This night it was the steamed duck combination that hit the spot. A few veggies, a tasty sauce and lots of duck made for a filling dinner.

 

Muswellbrook Chinese Restaurant - another big Saturday night

 

Best pub in Muswellbrook

Sunday 15 September 2013

Muswellbrook, Aberdeen, Scone, Murrurundi, Tamworth, Walcha, Uralla, Armidale, Dorrigo, Bellingen, Nambucca Heads.

 

I decidedly not to order breakfast from the motel, but just to pack up, check out and see if I could find a breakfast venue on my travels. I did. About 2 minutes after I left the motel. In the middle of Muswellbrook, a lovely cafe that did a very tasty cooked breakfast. There were three other motorbikes parked in front which is always inviting.

Back on the road and I followed the New England Highway north. I don't know if was just that it was a Sunday morning, but the road was very quiet. The weather was clear and sunny, about 20 degrees and no wind. Absolutely perfect motorbike weather. I had a wonderful day riding up through Scone and Murrurundi to Tamworth. Lots more cows and some large fancy looking horse studs on both sides of the highway. Very little traffic, and lots of safe overtaking spaces meant that there were very few times when I had to slow down. All systems go. This was lovely country with wide valleys, rolling hills with the occasional dramatic mountain in the distance and rich grazing lands as far as the eye could see. Beautiful.

I stopped for petrol at Tamworth and while I was at the pumps, an older gentleman pulled up on a Honda ST1300. He got off and looked at my bike and said “I've got one of those on order”. I assured him he would not be disappointed.

The Golden Guitar - Tamworth

 

After Tamworth I turned off the New England Highway and on to the Oxley Highway which would take me to Walcha. Last November I went to Walcha then rode south on Thunderbolts way to Gloucester. This time I wanted to ride north from Walcha on Thunderbolts way to Uralla and then Armidale. Walcha is a lovely little town that seems to have artworks (sculptures) all over the place. I stopped here for a coffee. All morning I had been seeing groups of bike riders going in all directions. While having a coffee in Walcha, there must have been 30 or 40 bikes in various groups go past. All heading for or coming from Thunderbolts Way, famous in Australian bike lore as a must try road.

Carved wooden bench - Walcha

Walcha roundabout - artwork everywhere

 

After the coffee I headed north on Thunderbolts Way. I don't know what it is about this road, but there is an overwhelming urge to ride too fast. An absolute rush. This brings you out at Uralla and it is then a short ride to Armidale. This was first time in this part of the country and I was keen to have a look at Armidale, a city I have been hearing about all my life. That Sunday lunch time, Armidale seemed to be having a sleep in. I went down to the city centre and it was very quiet. I was looking for some lunch by that stage, but nothing leapt out at me. Eventually I decided to push on.

At this point I was on Waterfall Way, starting from Armidale. This would take me right through to the coast, just north of Nambucca.

Another great road going through a few smaller towns. Eventually the landscape becomes more and more dramatic as the road follows ridges with the sides getting steeper and steeper dropping away to long winding valleys. This culminates in the town of Dorrigo which sits atop the Dorrigo plateau on the edge of an escarpment which drops suddenly to the coast. Dorrigo is another fine old coutry town, originally formed around the timber industry.

 

Dorrigo Pub

 

Dangar Falls - Dorrigo

 

Dorrigo rainforest skywalk

 

From Dorrigo it is straight down the side of the mountain, along the banks of the Bellinger river and eventually through the beautiful small town of Bellingen, and emerging on to the Pacific highway just north of Urunga. From there it was a quick 20 kilometres into Nambucca Heads.

The next 4 days saw the bike securely locked in the garage while my wife and I spent some time touring the district, including a return trip to Dorrigo and 2 visits to Bellingen. Both highly recommended for a visit.

 

David Helfgott sculpture - Bellingen

 

Thursday 19th September

I had allowed 2 days for the return journey and had a look at the map to perhaps find a different route. But I had enjoyed the trip up so much that I decided to go back the same way. I had great weather and the touring went perfectly. Another night in Muswellbrook, the other Chinese Restaurant and the last day was the run back through Bylong Valley, over the Blue Mountains and home. A great way to spend a week.

 

Pub in Rylstone

 

Admiring the Wallerawang Power Station - Lithgow