Snowy Mountains - December 2013

Friday 13 December, 2013

Sydney, Nowra, Nerriga, Bungendore, Queanbeyan, Cowra

 

Day 1

 

I decided to try and fit in a small bike ride before the madness of Christmas, so I arranged to have a Friday and Monday off to give me a 4 day weekend.

Friday the 13th arrived and I got away from home about 8.30 am and headed straight down the Princes Highway to Nowra. Never really enjoy this freeway traffic. I can't believe how many drivers don't know how to drive on a freeway with courtesy and respect for other drivers/riders, But that's another story.

Coffee at Berry and petrol stop at Nowra and then the fun stuff starts. Braidwood road goes around the back of Nowra airport / HMAS Albatross and off into the wild blue yonder. Quite a good road with hardly any traffic at all, and plenty of long straights for overtaking the few cars you come across. Changing scenery from open valleys, thick scrub to pine forests. I presume that's where Turpentine Road gets it's name from.

A few twisties and you go through the tiny town of Nerriga. I have thought about having a look at the Nerriga Pub, but both times I have been through here has been about 11am in the morning and it just doesn't seem right stopping at a country pub at that hour. I can't imagine asking for a skim flat white at the Nerriga Pub in the morning. I could get run out of town.

Braidwood Road becomes Nerriga Road which turns into Oallen Ford Road and then turns on to Sandy Point road which turns to Cullulla Road which takes you into Tarago. All of these roads take you through real wilderness country with few signs of human habitation. What's commonly known as the middle of nowhere. Love it. On Oallen ford road there is an old single lane timber bridge which goes across the Shoalhaven river, which at this point is wide, shallow and flowing steadily. On either side of the bridge there are wide areas of dry, rocky riverbed with the stream only taking a small proportion of it. Today there must have been half a dozen or so large caravans hooked up to large four wheel drives parked on either side of the road next to the river. On one side, and quite close to the road, 2 mature gentlemen (grey nomads?) had a sluicing operation set up and were hard at it. There may be gold in them thar hills.

 I remember last time I came this way I kept worrying that I might miss one of the turns. But also like last time, I was relieved to find that all the turns I needed were well sign posted to Tarago because this was the quick way for people from Canberra to get to Nowra, and anywhere that people from Canberra need to go seems to get reasonably well looked after.

With one small exception. When I came this way in March, there was about three kilometres of Oallen Ford Road that was not sealed, but there was a large contingent of men and equipment working on it. I thought by today it would be sealed right through. When I came to that spot I found a nice new tarred road for the first 2 Kms and then 1 Km of dirt road and not a man or machine in sight. They had obviously decided that 2 out of 3 kilometres was quite enough, pack up and went home. Fortunately it was nice and dry. Just dust to contend with.

Through Tarago, thought again about stopping at the loaded dog Hotel, but it was the whole country pub, morning, skim flat white situation again. It's a shame Australia doesn't have a series of historic cafes to visit instead of it always being a pub.

Tarago is also curtained on one side by a mountain range crowned with a row of enormous wind turbines that seem to go on for Kilometre after kilometre. Finally the run into Bungendore and a stop at the Gunna Doo Bakery for a pie and cup of coffee.

From there it’s a fairly easy run through Queanbeyan and down the Monaro Highway to Cooma. A couple of beers, some dinner and an early night, ready to conquer Kosciusko national park tomorrow.

 

Sunset in Cooma

Cooma Street

Same sunset

 

Saturday 14 December, 2013

Cooma, Adaminaby, Old Adaminaby, Cabramurra, Khancoban, Thredbo, Jindabyne.

 

Day 2

 

 A good start to the morning at Cafe 40 in Cooma. I have eaten here before and they do a great breakfast. It has an Irish Theme, Irish names for the various meals, Irish music playing in the background. I had the full Irish breakfast. Not sure what makes it Irish, but it's bloody good.

 From Cooma I followed the Snowy Mountains highway. Lots of open rolling hills in a patchwork of green and brown. A few farm houses and sheds scattered throughout the landscape. Very little traffic in either direction. It is easy to understand why so many motorcycle riders come down this way. This sort of country is just fantastic to ride in. Good roads rarely straight. Lots of corners, not so sharp that you have to slow down, but sharp enough to get a good lean on and really know you are riding a bike. And beautiful scenery as well. The temperature varied between 16 and 20 which is ideal when you are wearing riding gear. nice and fresh.

Edge of Lake Eucumbene - Old Adaminaby

 

A Short trip to Adaminaby, a stop for petrol, a look at the big trout and the Snowy Mountains Scheme Museum and that was it. Pretty place, but not much of it. I was keen to see the site of Old Adaminaby which was 6 Kms away. In the 1950s, Adaminaby was moved when Lake Eucumbene was filled as part of the Snowy Scheme. The town was moved and most of the old town was submerged. Today, There is a small community thriving there, mostly holiday homes and caravan park built around fishing on the lake. Quite a few houses on the hillside above the lake. A few old foundations are still visible down by the lakes edge, but there is not much more to be seen of Old Adaminaby.

 

Cabramurra

Cabramurra lookout

 

Not far from Adaminaby I turned off Snowy Mountains Highway on to Link Road and started heading into mountain country. This is all in the Kosciusko National Park and most of the roads here were built as part of the snowy Mountain Scheme. The first town is Cabramurra, the highest permanently settled town in Australia. It was built as a camp for Snowy Scheme workers and is now populated entirely of Hydro power employees and their families. The town is made up of rows of identical houses with steep roofs, designed and built specifically for the location and heavy snow falls. It is very close to Tumut 2 power station and pondage.

 

Link road - Snowy Mountains

Lnk road - snowy Mountains

 

It was not far from here that I saw a herd of wild brumbies grazing by the side of the road. I stopped and walked towards them to get some photos. As I got to within about 100 meters of them they looked at me and wandered off in another direction, not terribly concerned.

 

Wild Brumbies beside the road

 

After Cabramurra you are in real mountain country with lots of twists and turns and steep slopes. Every now and then you crest a hill and get the most magnificent views of valleys and mountain ranges disappearing into the distance. It really is amazing country.

 

Near Cabramurra

Near Cabramurra

 

The Link road become Goat Ridge road and then Tooma road. At both Tumut pond reservoir an Tooma reservoir the road goes across the top of the dam wall. Beside both of these dams is extremely dramatic topography with water reservoirs well below maximum capacity and very steep walls of man mad earth and rubble, all surrounded by steep mountain cliffs.

 

Tooma pondage

Tooma Pondage

 

Eventually the mountain roads relax a little and open out into longer straight valleys as you approach Khancoban. This is another town that was originally constructed to accommodate workers of the Snowy Mountains scheme but has survived As a standalone community. I stopped at the pub for lunch and when I went inside and saw a large brindled dog asleep in front of the bar I immediately felt at home. Mind you, lunch was ordinary.

The next leg was through the Kosciusko National Park, around Mt Kosciusko and passed through Thredbo and on to Jindabyne. I had done this before in the opposite direction and previously had found it a challenging road.

This time I did not find it so challenging. I think mainly because I was a lot more familiar with the bike this time, I was more relaxed and I took my time. Whatever the cause, the result was an enjoyable trip. I found and stopped at the same rest area that I stopped at the last time through with a close look at the beautiful mountain stream passing through the rest area.

 

Stream at rest area - Kosciusko National Park

 

When I got to Thredbo I turned off the main road and went down through the village which is fairly quiet at this time of year. It amazes me how different the architecture is in this town compared to anywhere else I have ever seen. This is an alpine town, clinging to the side of a mountain and looking up at another mountain with long bald strips  to allow skiing runs and still, silent chairlifts waiting for the next winter and the crowds of tourists wanting to avail themselves of the services.

 

Between Thredbo and Jindabyne

Thredbo River - between Thredbo and Jindabyne

 

But now, It is quiet and peaceful. A few people around making the most of the summer bushwalking and the beautiful scenery.

On to Jindabyne and the search for overnight accommodation. My first attempt was the Lake Jindabyne Hotel Motel. I stopped at the reception area and read the notice that they were closed and I should report to the bottle shop to check in. I did. I stood in the Bottle shop waiting to be served. I pushed the button. I shouted hello. A man put his head around the door and said " she'll be with you in a  minute mate" I waited another 10 minutes. Another customer came in to the bottle shop, and looked at me said "you've got to wake 'em up" and yelled out a couple of times. A new man stuck his head around the corner and said "she'll be with you in a minute" I gave it another minute and decided I didn't want to stay in a motel run by these people. Back on the bike, back up the road, I found Rydges. I walked into the reception and I was welcomed with open arms. They couldn't do enough for me. I paid a bit more than usual, but it was worth every cent.

It was seafood Saturday at Rydges so it was a dozen fresh oysters, half a kilo of fresh prawns and a couple of Corona's for dinner. Fantastic.

My exorbitant priced accommodation included breakfast, so I think it turned out to be a very good deal.

Sunday 15th December

Jindabyne, Dalgety, Bombala, Cathcart, Candelo, Bega, Tathra, Bermagui, Tilba Tilba, Narooma, Bodalla Moruya.

 

Day 3

 

 An early breakfast and off down Snowy River Way. The first section to Dalgety is typical windy road up and down hills. Farms, Cows and beautiful scenery.  Dalgety was a very sleepy town on a Sunday morning. I did not see one person through the town. Maybe they were still asleep. Unlikely in a country town. Maybe they were all at church. Possible on a Sunday morning. Maybe they were still finishing off the Saturday night rave. Unlikely. Whatever the reason, there was no one there.

From Dalgety it was on to Bombala. This road was a revelation. Moving from hill to valley, there were practically no trees, large boulders and occasional farm houses. You could see ahead for kilometres. No traffic, No policeman. It was almost impossible not to go very fast.

 

Snowy river Way between Dalgety and Bombala

Snowy river Way between Dalgety and Bombala

 

Eventually the Snowy River Way turns on to the Monaro Highway and a short time later brings you into Bombala. A lovely old town, I stopped for coffee and met a group of bike riders there that had been doing some off road riding.

From Bombala I headed out the Bombala Cathcart Road until Reached the tiny village of Cathcart where my road became the Mt Darrah Road until Wyndam. Mt Darrah road would take you through to Pambula, but I turned off at Wyndham onto the Myrtle Mountain Road. The country had changed by now into mountainous terrain with thick forests of tall trees with thick foliage of large ferns at the base. The road was windy with lots of hairpin turns and slow going but beautiful.

 

Myrtle Mountain

 

 Eventually I arrived at Candelo. A lovely old town, although there didn't seem to be anywhere to get a cup of coffee.

 Next stop was Bega where I had planned to have some lunch, but I had got here quite early and I was still digesting breakfast, So I decided to keep going.

 I went out to Tathra and headed north on the Tathra Bermagui road. This takes you through a couple of state forests and generally along the coast and across a number of long bridges crossing rivers and lakes where they empty into the sea.

Finally to Bermagui where I stopped for lunch. I won't tell you where because it wasn't very good. From Bermagui it's not far back to the Princes highway and almost immediately I took the turn to Tilba Tilba. A lovely historic village where I knew I could do some shopping. The following day, When I would get home, was our 27th wedding anniversary and I knew my wife would be surprised if I remembered. So a bit of shopping in Tilba Tilba and I was set. On to Narooma, Bodalla and finally Moruya where I had decided to stop for the night. Motels seemed to be few and far between in Moruya, But I found one, Checked in, performed my ablutions and found a nice Thai restaurant for Dinner.

 

Tilba Tilba

Motel at Moruya - in for the night

Air Raid Tavern Moruya - closed unfortunately

 

 

Monday 16th December

Moruya, Batemans Bay, Milton, Nowra, Wollongong, Oyster Bay

 

Day 4

 

 A good night’s sleep and a wander up to the Red Rose café for breakfast and all was well. There had been some rain overnight, the ground was wet, but I had not heard a thing. It was still overcast and I set off from Mourya about 9.30 with all the wet weather gear on. It drizzled for a while until I stopped in Milton for coffee. When I left Milton it was raining a bit heavier. I really don’t mind riding in the rain at all as long as I am prepared for it, and today I was well and truly prepared. The Shoei helmet I bought a few months ago is the best I have ever used in the wet. Usually the worst thing about riding in the rain is the low visibility because the rain drops stick to the visor and makes it hard to see. With this helmet, the water ran straight off so that I never had an issue with it. Worth every cent for that alone.

It was an uneventful trip, back on the main highway and bit more traffic that I had had the last 3 days. As usual, South Nowra was a nightmare with road works. Traffics crawled for about 10Kms. One thing big motorbikes are not good at is going very slow.

Once through Nowra it was a quick run home and I arrived bearing anniversary gifts. Always a good way to return.

1,365 enjoyable kilometres.

 

The full trip