Great Ocean Road - May 2013

Saturday 11 May, 2013

Sydney to Bega

 

Click any picture to enlarge

I have been planning this trip for some time and I intend to see a lot of country that I have not seen before. First leg is to Bega. Nothing new here. I have made this trip many times, as recently as January. This first section getting out of Sydney is a bit of chore and I don't really begin to relax and enjoy the ride until after I have passed through Nowra. Not far passed Nowra I had a lunch stop. Spicy red kidney bean pie with mixed salad at Pilgrims Restaurant in Milton is always a treat. All vegetarian, their meals and fresh juices are fantastic. I could easily be a vegetarian if I had access to this food all the time. 

I think the trip down the south coast really comes alive after you have passed Milton Ulladulla. From here on its twisty roads, lots of forests and very little traffic. Great riding. Coffee at the Bodalla Dairy Shed (recommended) and then on to Bega. Just on 400 Kms for the day. I arrived about 3 pm. Checked in to a motel and a quick relax before dinner. There was an older couple in the room next to me. They had travelled from South Australia around the coast. The reverse of my trip. The gentleman was very talkative and we chatted outside for a while. He was a pipe smoker and had to stand outside the room which meant he was there quite bit.

 

Bodalla Dairy shed

Bodalla Pub

I had spent a night in Bega about 5 years ago on one of my first longer bike rides. I was on a Honda shadow and rode down to Bega, stayed overnight (at the same motel) and went back to Sydney the next day. I remember that it was a Monday night that I stayed and I was astounded by how quiet Bega was on a Monday night. Nothing happening. No one about. I finished up having dinner in a pub. I think I was the only diner in that night. I remember walking into one pub, the Bank Hotel, just before 7 pm and the bar man shouted “sorry mate, we’re just closing” as I walked through the door.

So here I was on a Saturday night thinking Bega should be jumping on a Saturday night. Na. Nothing. No one. Cafes and restaurants were firmly shut. The pub with the counter dinner was open, but I was reluctant. The Bank Hotel had closed sometime since my last visit. For good. There was a restaurant that offered Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai cuisine. In my experience that many cuisines get a bit confused and finish up all tasting the same. One of the other hotels in town also had a Chinese restaurant which I had considered on the last trip. This time I took the plunge. Four prawn cutlets (we make ourselves) followed by stir fried fish with ginger and shallots. If they make the prawn cutlets themselves they might as well buy some frozen cutlets. The fish wasn’t bad. I thought the chance of fresh fish in Bega was pretty good. For anyone familiar with country town Chinese food (in a pub) it was pretty much exactly what you would have expected. At least I went back to the motel with a full belly. My Neighbour was out the front sucking on his pipe and up for a chat. He and his wife had been to the bowling club for dinner. “Not bad” was the verdict. The beer and wine must have been good because he had a lot of trouble standing up without leaning on his car. I made my excuses as soon as propriety permitted and went into my room and locked the door.

 

Bega - house on the hill

Bega

Bega - early morning fog. hoping for a cafe to open.

I was way too smart to order breakfast from the motel thinking that the cafe downtown would be open for breakfast. It was Mother's Day after all. 7.30 the next morning I was out walking the streets in vain. Nothing. Well, the Bakers Delight was open and I finished up with an apple custard scroll and a nice cup of International Roast instant made in my room. It was a very foggy morning but by 8.30 there was nothing keeping me in Bega any longer.

I should mention before leaving the subject that my mother was born and raised in Bega. I know I was there as a small child (vague memory) and I have been there three times as an adult. There is none of my mother’s family left there anymore. I always feel like it should be important to me, but it’s hard to get too involved. Maybe if there were some restaurants open some time.

Sunday 12 May

Bega - Eden - Mallacoota - Cann River - Orbost - Bairnsdale - Sale

 

Thick fog as I left Bega, so it was a slow trip out of town. I was expecting the fog to lift slowly as I travelled, but instead I just seemed to ride out of it all of a sudden. One second I was lucky to see 100 meters and the next it was a clear sunny day. Weird.

I was still looking for a proper breakfast after my experience in Bega. I called into Eden and had a choice of cafes for breakfast.  I went down to a lovely spot next to the wharf where all the fishing boats moor on Twofold bay. A choice of cafes. Breakfast was quickly sorted.

 

Eden for breakfast

Eden is the furthest south I had been before so from here on was all new territory for me. Not far south of Bega I crossed the border into Victoria. Great roads. Forests. Occasional scenic views down long green valleys. Virtually no traffic (and no police men) at all. I had a lovely time. The Trophy has been designed from the ground up for long distance travel and it does it beautifully. Comfortable position, plenty of information and loud music. It is an experience cruising through forests of tall timber trees with no other cars and Led Zeppelin blaring at you from the speakers in the dashboard. If there were any tree huggers in the forests they would have been horrified, but I was having a ball.

Just over the border I turned off the highway and went into Mallacoota on the coast. A wild and twisty road to get there but a magical spot.  Just stayed long enough to take a few photos and eat a banana.

 

Mallacoota

I had a quick stop at Cann River for coffee and ablutions. A very small town with several coffee shops and at least two pie shops. A travellers delight.

 

BSA outside a Cann River Cafe

Cann River

Next stop was Orbost, which seemed to be a very old country town with a huge pub. I had been thinking about the pies since I left Cann River and wouldn’t you know it, Orbost had a pie shop to. Quick lunch stop. It had been very sunny so far, but now the clouds were rolling in. Didn’t seem to be any rain in it so no concerns so far.

 

Orbost - huge pub.

The forests had turned into farming country now which was beautiful and green with lots of cows. Very pleasant riding. The next major town was Bairnsdale. I had heard of it but knew nothing about it. I was amazed at the size. It was a lot bigger than I thought with some beautiful old buildings. Have to go back there one day. I wanted to push on to Sale And i arrived there about 4 pm. 450 Kms and the beauty of the Trophy is that after doing that many Ks I am not totally wasted. Booked into the Midtown motel, bought a bottle of wine and typed up these notes. Shower and dinner to come. Yeeeeha.

Had a walk around Sale looking for dinner.  One pub was too quiet. Another was too busy. Jack Ryan's Irish bar and grill was completely empty. After going around a couple of blocks I found an Indian restaurant that was about 2/3 full. I ventured in. It was licensed so I was able to have a beer while I perused the menu. The Mother's Day special menu that is. They had a fish curry with lemon and ginger which I ordered with rice and raita. The curry was superb.  Fresh, tender fish pieces with an assortment of vegetables and a mild flavour of lemon and ginger. I really enjoyed it and I was surprised. That's the city snob in me that never thinks I'm going to find good food out of the metropolitan area. I love being proved wrong about that.

 

Sale at night - pub 1

Sale pub 2

Sale - clock tower

Monday 13 May

Sale, Yarram, Leongatha, Sorrento, Queenscliff, Barton heads, Torquay, Anglesea, Aireys’s Inlet, Lorne, Apollo Bay.

 

Breakfast at the motel this time. Once bitten. Got away from Sale about 8.30. Light drizzle of rain.  Headed south to Yarram and then on to Leongatha. Beautiful country. Like the English countryside (what I've seen of it on TV). Very green, very lush, a few hills and lots of fat cows. Absolutely beautiful. Good roads. Not much traffic. I did pass a police car which surprised me because they are a bit sneaky in Victoria. Very dull colors so you don’t realize its a police car until its too late.

Finally made my way through a lot of built up area to get to Sorrento on the Mornington peninsula. A very pretty place. Port Philip Bay on one side and Bass straight on the other. I arrived at the car ferry just as a ferry was docking so I only had a ten minute wait till the cars unloaded and then my group were on. I was the only bike on the boat. It was only about half full. $35 to take the bike across the bay. Very cheap to avoid having to go through Melbourne. The ferry was very comfortable with a large Lounge area upstairs with a cafe, TV and a children's play area. A 40 minute ride. Just time for a coffee, sandwich and a phone call to check in at home.

 

Car ferry docking

Lounge on the car ferry

Trophy on the car ferry

Once on the other side in Queenscliff I started following signs pointing to the Great Ocean Road. This took me first of all through Barwon Heads. The Barwon Heads bridge is famous for being used as the bridge in Seachange that connects the fictitious Pearl Bay to Port Deakin. It is certainly recognisable.

From there it is another half hour to Torquay which is the start of the Great Ocean Road. From Anglesea you start to enjoy some of the ocean views then on to Aireys Inlet. These are very pretty towns. But the trump is Lorne. Now, all of my adult life I have been hearing people say “ oh Lorne is beautiful” to the point where I really didn’t care. But, Lorne is beautiful. A great setting. A nice mixture of trendy looking shops and restaurants and beautiful old buildings to add touch of class.

 

On the Great Ocean Road

By this stage the rain started again. The temperature was down to about 12. I was determined to make it to Apollo Bay for the night and I only had about half an hour to go. Fortunately I had all the wet weather gear on and a few layers underneath to keep out the cold. So despite the weather, I was still enjoying the ride and fabulous scenery. Only saw one other bike silly enough to be out on a day like this.

Made it to Apollo Bay about 4.30pm. 440 kms. Turned into a motel that was near the middle of town and booked in to a room that has a spa and gas log fire. Perfect for warming up and drying out. Found dinner at the Apollo Bay Hotel. Catalan seafood stew. Very nice.

 

Apollo Bay Hotel for dinner

Tuesday 14 May

Apollo Bay, Cape Otway National Park, Port Campbell, Warrnambool, Port Fairy, Heywood, Mt Gambier.

 

All night in Apollo Bay the wind howled and the rain poured. By morning it was still pouring and I had to wait til about 8am for a break in the rain before venturing out to find breakfast. I found “The Bay Leaf” which I thoroughly recommend. Homemade baked beans, poached eggs, chorizo, tomato jam and goats cheese on Turkish bread and two very good cups of coffee.

 

Car park of the Apollo Motel - wet morning

But the time I suited up and loaded the bike the rain was only very light so I took my chance and set off. The first section took me through the Cape Otway National Park which was stunning. Tall forests packed with ferns. Unfortunately the rain never stopped, but sometimes got heavier, the temperature dropped to 6 degrees and on the top of the mountain there was a very thick fog. I will never understand how people can drive through a thick fog, some quite quickly, and not think to themselves that it would probably be a good idea to turn the headlights on.  But then, all along the Great Ocean Road there are signs saying “Drive on the left in Australia". The thought of going around a corner in thick fog and meeting a car on the wrong side of the road and without headlights on could keep one awake at night.

Just before Port Campbell there is a car park and viewing platform for the 12 Apostles. It was still raining but I couldn't go past without having a look so I parked the bike and took the walk under the road and down to the viewing platform

 

Trophy in the 12 Apostles car park

Under the Great Ocean road to the viewing platform

And suddenly, there it is. Wow.

Zoom lens working well

Yes, there are tiny little people on top of that bit.

Photos do not do the size justice.

This is truly an amazing place and the scenery is breathtaking. Just a pity it was a freezing wind and rain. Back on the bike.

As I approached Port Campbell, Warrnambool and Port Fairy, I thought each time that I would stop for a break. But each time I entered one of the towns the rain seemed to get a bit heavier and I thought , bugger it, I’ll keep going. Stopping in the rain gets you much wetter than staying on the bike and continuing to move. So I went through each of these towns, hoping that there would be a break in the rain. For most of this part of the journey the thermometer was fixed on 10 degrees and there was a howling crosswind blowing from north to south which made my right hand side much colder than the left.

Eventually there was nothing left between me and Mt Gambier so I decided to press on. About 50 kms before Mt Gambier, I came across a road works site that stopped the traffic. Once we got the green light I found myself riding in about 2 inches of very soggy, slippery mud. I had to take it very slow with my feet down. I had a few slidey moments but made it through. When I did get to town and got off the bike I found that the bike and my boots were caked in thick yellow mud. Very unpleasant. Couldn't even read the number plate.

Coming in to Mt Gambier, both sides of the road were covered in forests grown by the timber industry. Thousands of trees in various stages of growth. Whole acres of trees no more than 25 cm high, next to acres of trees 30 meters high  and then acres of trees 10 meters high. On the edge of the forests I saw several groups of emus who had just popped out of the trees to graze on the grass next to the road.

Finally into Mt Gambier and found a pub. I had been on the bike for 4 hours and covered 350 kms with only a brief stop for some photos of the 12 Apostles so I was hungry, weary and in need of a men’s room.

Getting off the bike I realized that my boots and the bottom of my rain pants were yellow with thick mud. I didn’t think the pub would be welcoming me with open arms. Fortunately all the gear was waterproof so ran it under a tap which got most of the mud off and , given it was a dimly lit pub, let me get away with it.

Over a steak for lunch (I've had a lot of fish lately) I decided that if it had stopped raining by the time I finished lunch I would press on to Robe, another 130 Kms on the south Australian coast. As it turned out, it was  pouring rain when I went back outside, so I rode about half a kilometre down the  road til I found a decent looking motel where I checked in and had a very long hot shower.

This will be as far west as I am going to go. Tomorrow I start heading east towards home.

 

The Blue Lake. It's in Mt Gambier. Apparently.

Wednesday 15th May

Mt Gambier, Casterton, Hamilton, Dunkeld, Ararat, Avoca, Maryborough, Castlemaine

 

Still very overcast as I left Mt Gambier. About 12 degrees. Much more open country here. Long straight roads which allowed me to make good time. Went through Casterton which had some beautiful old buildings, especially the pubs. I noticed these Victorian towns take their race courses very seriously. They all seem to have one and they look very well maintained and utilized.

Started to get into hilly country, not realizing til later on that this was the southern tip of the Grampians. Lots of hills, deep valleys, not a lot of timber and extreme cross winds. A bit of drizzle through this area and the roads were certainly too wet to really open up on the sweeping corners. Caution all the way.

Around this area, in the high wind, I found that if I were leaning into a right hand corner and wind gusted from my left , the bike would suddenly dip further in to the lean, increasing the existing lean angle by about 10 degrees. The first time it happened almost required an emergency change of underwear. But once I worked out what was happening I was able to allow for it and control it better. But not a pleasant experience.

A Quick stop at Dunkeld for coffee. I was unfamiliar with this name and at first I was placing the emphasis on the first syllable so that it sounded like I was describing a biscuit that had been dipped in a cup of tea. After reading that it was originally the name of a well-known Scottish town I realized it would be Dun Keld. Equal emphasis.

 

Dunkeld. the beautiful mountain behind is obscured by clouds.

The rain had pretty much stopped by now as I made my way to Ararat. Another town with a good dose of historical buildings. A place that deserves more time to explore, especially J Ward, Australia's first purpose built asylum for the criminally insane. Opened in 1859 and closed in 1991, it is now a museum and i’ll have to go back and have a look at it one day.

On through Maryborough and Avoca and finally in to Castlemaine about 2pm. Another lovely old country town. Victoria seems to have done a better job than NSW at keeping its historic buildings. Especially in these gold towns where wealth came quickly and in great volume and allowed very impressive buildings to be built very early on in the towns formation. Castlemaine is a great example of this.

Scenes from Castlemaine

After another long hot shower, I had plenty of time to wander around the centre of the town and soak up some of the atmosphere. Unusually, there didn’t seem to be many pubs about. Some older buildings looked like they may have once been pubs, but have since been converted to restaurants, accommodation etc. All in all, a beautiful old town with some great buildings

Thursday 16th May

 Castlemaine, Bendigo, Heathcote, Seymour, Benalla, Glenrowan, Wangaratta, Beechworth. Yackandandah, Wodonga

 

A good night in Castlemaine, after some dinner at a small Mexican restaurant, it was an early night. The morning saw overcast skies persisting, but at least it wasn't raining. Still cold though, 10 degrees.

I went straight through Bendigo just to the north of Castlemaine, but it left a big impression. When I did get to the centre of the city I was blown away by the huge, grandiose buildings, central square and statues. It is mnore like a large European city  than country Victoria. The signs of early gold wealth were everywhere. I have included some photos here, but none of them capture the grandeur of the centre of Bendigo.

 

Bendigo

I then headed south again to go through 2 small towns, Heathcote and Seymour. Both pretty towns. The roads at this stage were minor country roads in good condition and I was able to make very good time. Very little traffic and not a policeman in sight.

From Seymour I finished up on the Hume highway which was no fun. 4 lane divided highways are very boring on a motorbike and bring on fatigue faster than any othe conditions I know. so I got off the free way to venture through Euroa first and then Violet town where I stopped for coffee. Another quick stretch of the Freeway and then off into Glenrowan, the site of Ned Kelly's last stand. There's no mistaking you are in Kelly country. The whole town is like a shrine to Ned and his capture. I did the pilgrimage walking around the signposted points of interest. From the site of the Inn which burned down at the final siege, to the site where Ned fell and was finally captured.

 

Glenrowan Hotel

Glenrowan motif

Site of the Glenrowan Inn - Kelly siege.

Site of Ned's capture. Surprised to see him still there.

Then through Wangaratta and a detour down to Beechworth. I was making good time so I stopped for a look around Beechworth, including a coffee and a pie at the famous Beechworth bakery. Another beautiful Victorian town and autumn had the leaves changing colour which is always the best time to see these places. I also had a quick stop and wander through Yackandandah, about 20 kilometres from Beechworth and similar but smaller town. The roads around this area are a motorcyclist's delight. Hills, corners and beautiful scenery. Although this day was damp and very cold, that could not diminish the enjoyment of the ride.

 

Beechworth

Beechworth Bakery

Beechworth

Beechworth

Beechworth

From Yackandandah it was a short ride to Wodonga where I was staying with my brother for the night. A light day's travelling at 370 Kms.

 

Yackandandah

Friday 17th May

Wodonga, Gundagai, Yass, Goulburn, Sydney.

 

A very cold morning in Wodonga. I was off and running by 9am. This was not only the longest one day trip of the week, but also the most boring and probably the coldest. The whole trip was on the Hume highway. Very boring. I started to feel cold and tired within an hour of starting. It is amazing how I can go for hours on a small country road without feeling tired, without being bothered by the cold. But as soon as I am on the freeway I'm in trouble. I had to make a few stops. Tarcutta for a hot chocolate, Yass for Lunch and Marulan for petrol, even though I didn't really need it. I got home about 3.30 pm after 550 Kms. A very tiring day.

All in all, I had a fantastic 7 days and saw some beautiful country. The Trophy performed exactly as the glossy brochures said it would. I could not have managed the kilometres in the nasty weather on any bike I have had before. The Trophy was perfect with it's weather protection, easy cruising motor with plenty of torque when required, plenty of luggage space and lots of loud inappropriate music. What more could you ask from a motorbike.