Saturday
16 August, 2017
Oyster Bay
- Katoomba - Lithgow - Rylstone - Muswellbrook
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| Day 1 |
Just time
time to squeeze in another trip before the Christmas season descends. After
scouring the map I have decided on the New England region and a few minor roads
I have not been on before. this will involve some zig zagging from east to west
to take in the Gwydir Highway, The Bruner Highway, parts of Mt Lindsay Rd I
haven't done before and old favourites like Bylong Valley and Waterfall WayI
should average about 400 km per day, which is easy work.
I got away
from home about 8.30am on Saturday day and had absolutely fabulous run. A
beautiful day, not too much traffic and the bike like a dream on new tyres and
brake pads. About 11c when I left home, it got down to 7.5c through Katoomba
and Blackheath.
Straight
through Lithgow to my first stop which was Rystone for petrol, dumplings and
Chinese tea. I've told you about 29 nine 99 before. Let's just say it is and
island of Asian delight in rural Australia.
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| 29 Nine 99 |
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| Dumplings at 29 Nine 99 |
From
Rylstone it is straight through the
Bylong Valley. 100 km of almost perfect motorcycle road. And the conditions
were perfect. Cool but sunny. Hardly a
car on the road. And not a single police person in sight. I did get to stretch
the bike's capabilities a bit. Heaven.
i was in
Muswellbrook about 2pm for a little lie down, a shower and off to the pub. I
have stayed here a couple of times before and finished up in Chinese
restaurants. The Motel Manager had recommended Eatons hotel which I had looked
at last time and dismissed as falling down. It is a huge, old 2 storey pub with
timber veranda protruding over the footpath. It looks 100 years old and
neglected. However, this time I went inside to have a look. The old front bar
looks original and maintained while ou the back is a large modern extension.
There were quite a few people in there and the atmosphere was good. On top of
that, they had Little Creatures Pale Ale on tap, so I settled in for the night.
Beef Stew completed the night.
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| Cattle dog at Muswellbrook |
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| Eatons Hotel |
Sunday 27
August, 2017
Muswellbrook
- Scone - Tamworth - Walcha - Armidale - Dorrigo
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| Day 2 |
Muswellbrook
at 7.30am on a Sunday morning is very quiet. I could not find a single cafe
open for breakfast. I found a few closed that advertised breakfast Monday to
Friday. Not Sunday. I finished up at Hungry Jacks with a Brekkie Roll. Ugh. Not
happy.
I left
Muswellbrook by 8.30 on another beautiful sunny day. Only 25 kilometres north I
went through Scone and was immediately disappointed that I had not stayed here
instead of Muswellbrook. Lots of cafes, nice looking pubs and a general air up
market about the whole place. I guess the difference is between a coal mining
town and a horse breeders town. I'll know next time.
I had a
stop at the Wallabadah General store, Who's sign advertises the best coffee
outside Italy. Well, it was pretty good, but I don't think the sign is entirely
accurate.
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| Sign says it all |
I had
forgotten how pretty the country side was along the New England Highway, and I
had a lovely time sticking to the speed limit and enjoying the view. A very
pleasant part of the world.
I had
planned to go straight up the New England Highway to Armidale, but after
Tamworth I decided to take a detour through Walcha. This gave me 50 km of the
Oxley Highway and 30 km of Thunderbolts way whcih were thoroughly enjoyable. I
stopped in Walcha for petrola and a bite of lunch to get the taste of Hungry
Jacks out of my mouth.
On the
Oxley and Thunderbolts I was able to open it up a bit and enjoy a couple of
roads firmly ensconced in the Motorcyclists canon. Thunderbolts brings you back
on to the New England at Uralla and then it is a short hop to Armidale where I
turned east on Waterfall road. Another beautiful road for bikiing. I had a
quick stop at Ebor Falls for a photo opportunity and my first time using a
selfie stick. MMmmmmmm.
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| Ebor Falls |
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| Ebor Falls and I. Photo: S. Stick |
The last
30 km into Dorrigo are absolute magic. Clinging to the ridge of hills there are
fantastic views of beautiful green valleys on either side, and the road is a
cracker. Arrived at Dorrigo about 3pm. I stayed in the Huge Dorrigo Heritage
Hotel which has some motel units out the back. I am writing this in the public
bar with a schooner of Guinness and St George playing football on the big
screen. The only other fellow in the bar is also typing on an iPad. Ill bet
that has never happened before.
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| Inside the Dorrigo Pub |
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| Dorrigo Pub |
Monday
28th August, 2017
Dorrigo -
Nymboida -Grafton - Glen Innes - Tenterfield
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| Day 3 |
A cool
morning in Dorrigo and beautiful clear blue sky. I found some breakfast at a
local cafe and hit the road about 8.30. Tyringham Rd takes you through North
Dorrigo and then on to Tyringham where you turn north onto Armidale Rd. This is
a beautiful minor road through mountains, forests and open valleys. A few
logging trucks to be careful of, but all in all a great ride. Half way through
is the tiny community of Nymboida on the Nymboida River. This place just looks
like heaven to me. A must check the real estate section.
This
eventually brings you into South Grafton where I joined the Gwydir Highway and
headed west. This is one of the roads I had targeted for this trip and it
didn't disappoint. A nice windy road through beautiful country. Magnificent
valleys. Large Rivers. Real rain Forest and Mountains. A bit of everything and
very little traffic. I had a lovely time.
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| Bridge on the Mann River. Photo: S. Stick |
Arrived in
Glen Innes about 12.30. On my way into town I went past the Standing stones
park where a local has built a mini Stonehenge. I popped in for a few photos
and a coffee in the cafe. Very Pleasant.
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| Glen Innes Standing Stones. Photo: S. Stick |
Back on
the New England and due north about 100km to Tenterfield. I have been through
Tenterfield before, but never stayed there. I was booked into the Peter Allen
Motor Inn. How could you not. What a lovely town. Some beautiful old buildings,
art galleries, Antiques, all the trendy stuff. A couple of nice pubs. They
really get there monies worth from local celebrities, Peter Allen, Sir Henry
Parkes, Banjo Patterson (he got married there to a local girl) and Major J F
Thomas. Who, I hear you ask. Major Thomas was the lawyer who unsuccessfully
defended Breaker Morant and was played in the movie by Jack Thompson.
The
Saddlery building is still there that Peter Allen's grandfather, George
Woolnough, worked in and that he features in the song Tenterfield Saddler. Had
a fantastic meal at the Commercial Boutique Hotel. A beautifully renovated 50s
hotel. Highly recommended.
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| The Peter Allen |
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| Tenterfield Post Ofiice |
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| No Chinese tonight |
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| That scared me |
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| Tenterfield history |
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| The Tenterfield Saddler |
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| Inside a Tenterfield Pub |
Tuesday 29
August, 2017
Tenterfield
- Casino- Kyogle - Killarney - Warwick
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| Day 4 |
Another
perfect day. If a bit cold. About 5c in Tenterfield when I ventured out for
breakfast with a clear blue sky. I found a lovely little cafe that made good
coffee and had savoury mince on toast with a poached egg on top. An old
favourite. That got the day off to a good start.
On the
road by 9am and down the Bruxner highway to Casino. 120 Km of beautiful winding
road over the mountains and into the wide open valleys. See a pattern here.
Where I come from, you can go 150 km in any direction and the country does not
change. Flat and covered in salt bush. Here I go 120 Km and go through 4 completely
different types of landscapes. These people don't know how lucky they are.
From
Grafton I took the Summerland way up to Kyogle. A quick stop for petrol and a
phone call and the continued on the Summerland Way up to Mt Lindsay where I
turned West agin on Mt Lindsay Rd and headed for Warwick. This road took me
through similar changes in countryside, but the road was not well maintained
and did become very narrow in places. A bit tricky with oncoming 4wds with
caravans, but I lived to tell the tale.
Stopped in
Killarney for coffee and then another 25 Km to Warwick. I have stayed here
before and I was booked into the same Mote, the Jackie Howe. If you are wondering who Jackie Howe
was, Shame on you. He set the record of shearing 321 sheep in 7 hours and 40
minutes with hand shears. You try that. He also gave his name to blue singlet,
traditional uniform of shearer and and other tough alpha males.
Warwick is
a large town with some lovely old buildings. There is a pub with a nice bistro
about 50 meters away. I won't be going far tonight.
I am sure
you are all familiar with the 'Warwick Incident" of 1917. Prime Minister
Billy Hughes was addressing a crowd at the Warwick Railway Station when a man
in the crowd threw and egg at him, dislodging his hat. The Prime Minister
ordered the mans arrest but the Queensland state policeman refused saying the
PM did have authority over him. This lead directly to the formation of the
Australian Federal Police force and PM's have been taking their own policemen
with them ever since.
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| In the car park of the Jackie Howe |
Wednesday
30 August, 2017
Warwick -
Inglewood - Texas - Ashford- Inverell - Uralla - Walcha
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| Day 5 |
A very
cold morning in Warwick. -2c when I got up. After a brisk walk downtown for
breakfast I was ready to face the road. Rather than go straight down the New
England Highway, which I have done a couple of times before, I put my faith in
the GPS "alternate route" button. It took me west to Inglewood before
turning south and heading to Texas. It's not as big as they say. Just after
Texas I crossed the border back into NSW and headed for Inverell. I haven't
been there before and I was surprised how big it was. A nice looking town with
a population of 16,000 (2011). I was impressed and stopped for some lunch and
coffee. Very civilised.
Back on
the road I continued south heading for Uralla. I didn't realise until later
that I was on the Northern End of Thunderbolts Way which I had only taken to
Uralla in the past.
A short
hop from Uralla to Walcha down Thunderbolts Way, a name to stir the hearts of
motorbike riders everywhere. After the usual rest and clean-up I found the
Commercial hotel for a couple of beers and lasagne and salad. Very nice.
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| Commercial Hotel, Walcha |
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| Walcha artwork |
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| More Walcha artwork |
Thursday
31 August, 2017
Walcha -
Tamworth - Gunnedah - Mullally - Coolah - Mudgee
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| Day 6 |
Another
very cold morning. Rugged up for my breakfast walk. By the time I left town it
was up to 6c. When I hit the intersection of the Oxley Highway and the New
England Highway, police had closed of the New England to the north. Fortunately
I was going south. I found out later that there had been a car and truck crash
and the road remained closed for most of the day.
Short hops
to Tamworth and then Gunnedah. Not like trips out west where you can go for 200
km before you find a another town. Ever time I go through Gunnedah I look hard
for koalas but I have never seen one. Is it really the koala capital of the
world.
From There
to Mullally where I turned south on the Black Stump Way to Coolah.A very
pleasant 100km With the tail end of the Warrumbungles providing dramatic
contrast to plains. The small community of Tambar Springs was the first sign of
civilisation. The town advertises itself as Diprotodon central, and I since
learned that a complete Diprotodon skeleton was unearthed there between 1979
and 1984. It was also claims the first monument to world war 1 , built in
December 1918. Possibly because the town had the largest number of men per
capita enlist in the entire commonwealth.
On to
Coolah where I stopped for coffee. A lovely little town where my wife's father
was born. Not for away is the Coolah Tops National park, which I haven't
managed to get to yet, but by all accounts has some beautiful scenery.
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| Black Stump Inn, Coolah |
Finally
down Ulan Road to Mudgee. A curious mix of open cut coal mines and vineyards
down this road before arriving at the beautiful and cosmopolitan town of Mudgee
where I find myself feeling strangely at home. Could be all the good food, beer
and wine available. Had a great meal at the Brewery and a few of the local
brews.
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| Mudgee blooms |
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| Mudgee brewery |
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| More blooms |
Friday 1st
September, 2017
Mudgee –
Lithgow – Katoomba – Oyster Bay
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| Day 7 |
Apparently
the temperature git down to -4c overnight in Mudgee. It was still bloody cold
when I ventured out for breakfast. House made baked beans with chorizo,
spinach, poached eggs and sourdough toast warmed me up no end. Thank you to the
Wineglass restaurant.
An
uneventful trip home, without a stop. Got back to Oyster Bay about 12.45.
According to the trip meter I had done 2,735 kilometres over 30 hours and 29
minutes at an average speed of 90km/hour. Nice work if you can get it.
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| Complete trip |
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| 2,735 kilometres in 30 hours 29 minutes, averaging 90 km/h, consuming 17.5 litres of fuel per kilometre. |
