New England, August 2017

 

Saturday 16 August, 2017

 

Oyster Bay - Katoomba - Lithgow - Rylstone - Muswellbrook

 

Day 1

Just time time to squeeze in another trip before the Christmas season descends. After scouring the map I have decided on the New England region and a few minor roads I have not been on before. this will involve some zig zagging from east to west to take in the Gwydir Highway, The Bruner Highway, parts of Mt Lindsay Rd I haven't done before and old favourites like Bylong Valley and Waterfall WayI should average about 400 km per day, which is easy work.

I got away from home about 8.30am on Saturday day and had absolutely fabulous run. A beautiful day, not too much traffic and the bike like a dream on new tyres and brake pads. About 11c when I left home, it got down to 7.5c through Katoomba and Blackheath.

Straight through Lithgow to my first stop which was Rystone for petrol, dumplings and Chinese tea. I've told you about 29 nine 99 before. Let's just say it is and island of Asian delight in rural Australia.

29 Nine 99

Dumplings at 29 Nine 99

From Rylstone  it is straight through the Bylong Valley. 100 km of almost perfect motorcycle road. And the conditions were perfect. Cool but sunny.  Hardly a car on the road. And not a single police person in sight. I did get to stretch the bike's capabilities a bit.  Heaven.

i was in Muswellbrook about 2pm for a little lie down, a shower and off to the pub. I have stayed here a couple of times before and finished up in Chinese restaurants. The Motel Manager had recommended Eatons hotel which I had looked at last time and dismissed as falling down. It is a huge, old 2 storey pub with timber veranda protruding over the footpath. It looks 100 years old and neglected. However, this time I went inside to have a look. The old front bar looks original and maintained while ou the back is a large modern extension. There were quite a few people in there and the atmosphere was good. On top of that, they had Little Creatures Pale Ale on tap, so I settled in for the night. Beef Stew completed the night.

Cattle dog at Muswellbrook

Eatons Hotel

 

Sunday 27 August, 2017

 

Muswellbrook - Scone - Tamworth - Walcha - Armidale - Dorrigo

Day 2

 

Muswellbrook at 7.30am on a Sunday morning is very quiet. I could not find a single cafe open for breakfast. I found a few closed that advertised breakfast Monday to Friday. Not Sunday. I finished up at Hungry Jacks with a Brekkie Roll. Ugh. Not happy.

I left Muswellbrook by 8.30 on another beautiful sunny day. Only 25 kilometres north I went through Scone and was immediately disappointed that I had not stayed here instead of Muswellbrook. Lots of cafes, nice looking pubs and a general air up market about the whole place. I guess the difference is between a coal mining town and a horse breeders town. I'll know next time.

I had a stop at the Wallabadah General store, Who's sign advertises the best coffee outside Italy. Well, it was pretty good, but I don't think the sign is entirely accurate.

Sign says it all

I had forgotten how pretty the country side was along the New England Highway, and I had a lovely time sticking to the speed limit and enjoying the view. A very pleasant part of the world.

 

I had planned to go straight up the New England Highway to Armidale, but after Tamworth I decided to take a detour through Walcha. This gave me 50 km of the Oxley Highway and 30 km of Thunderbolts way whcih were thoroughly enjoyable. I stopped in Walcha for petrola and a bite of lunch to get the taste of Hungry Jacks out of my mouth.

On the Oxley and Thunderbolts I was able to open it up a bit and enjoy a couple of roads firmly ensconced in the Motorcyclists canon. Thunderbolts brings you back on to the New England at Uralla and then it is a short hop to Armidale where I turned east on Waterfall road. Another beautiful road for bikiing. I had a quick stop at Ebor Falls for a photo opportunity and my first time using a selfie stick. MMmmmmmm.

Ebor Falls

Ebor Falls and I. Photo: S. Stick

The last 30 km into Dorrigo are absolute magic. Clinging to the ridge of hills there are fantastic views of beautiful green valleys on either side, and the road is a cracker. Arrived at Dorrigo about 3pm. I stayed in the Huge Dorrigo Heritage Hotel which has some motel units out the back. I am writing this in the public bar with a schooner of Guinness and St George playing football on the big screen. The only other fellow in the bar is also typing on an iPad. Ill bet that has never happened before.

Inside the Dorrigo Pub

Dorrigo Pub

 

Monday 28th August, 2017

Dorrigo - Nymboida -Grafton - Glen Innes - Tenterfield

 

Day 3

A cool morning in Dorrigo and beautiful clear blue sky. I found some breakfast at a local cafe and hit the road about 8.30. Tyringham Rd takes you through North Dorrigo and then on to Tyringham where you turn north onto Armidale Rd. This is a beautiful minor road through mountains, forests and open valleys. A few logging trucks to be careful of, but all in all a great ride. Half way through is the tiny community of Nymboida on the Nymboida River. This place just looks like heaven to me. A must check the real estate section.

This eventually brings you into South Grafton where I joined the Gwydir Highway and headed west. This is one of the roads I had targeted for this trip and it didn't disappoint. A nice windy road through beautiful country. Magnificent valleys. Large Rivers. Real rain Forest and Mountains. A bit of everything and very little traffic. I had a lovely time.

Bridge on the Mann River. Photo: S. Stick

Arrived in Glen Innes about 12.30. On my way into town I went past the Standing stones park where a local has built a mini Stonehenge. I popped in for a few photos and a coffee in the cafe. Very Pleasant.

Glen Innes Standing Stones. Photo: S. Stick

Back on the New England and due north about 100km to Tenterfield. I have been through Tenterfield before, but never stayed there. I was booked into the Peter Allen Motor Inn. How could you not. What a lovely town. Some beautiful old buildings, art galleries, Antiques, all the trendy stuff. A couple of nice pubs. They really get there monies worth from local celebrities, Peter Allen, Sir Henry Parkes, Banjo Patterson (he got married there to a local girl) and Major J F Thomas. Who, I hear you ask. Major Thomas was the lawyer who unsuccessfully defended Breaker Morant and was played in the movie by Jack Thompson.

The Saddlery building is still there that Peter Allen's grandfather, George Woolnough, worked in and that he features in the song Tenterfield Saddler. Had a fantastic meal at the Commercial Boutique Hotel. A beautifully renovated 50s hotel. Highly recommended.

 

The Peter Allen

Tenterfield Post Ofiice

No Chinese tonight

That scared me

Tenterfield history

The Tenterfield Saddler

Inside a Tenterfield Pub

Tuesday 29 August, 2017

 

Tenterfield - Casino- Kyogle - Killarney - Warwick

Day 4

 

Another perfect day. If a bit cold. About 5c in Tenterfield when I ventured out for breakfast with a clear blue sky. I found a lovely little cafe that made good coffee and had savoury mince on toast with a poached egg on top. An old favourite. That got the day off to a good start.

 

On the road by 9am and down the Bruxner highway to Casino. 120 Km of beautiful winding road over the mountains and into the wide open valleys. See a pattern here. Where I come from, you can go 150 km in any direction and the country does not change. Flat and covered in salt bush. Here I go 120 Km and go through 4 completely different types of landscapes. These people don't know how lucky they are.

 

From Grafton I took the Summerland way up to Kyogle. A quick stop for petrol and a phone call and the continued on the Summerland Way up to Mt Lindsay where I turned West agin on Mt Lindsay Rd and headed for Warwick. This road took me through similar changes in countryside, but the road was not well maintained and did become very narrow in places. A bit tricky with oncoming 4wds with caravans, but I lived to tell the tale.

 

Stopped in Killarney for coffee and then another 25 Km to Warwick. I have stayed here before and I was booked into the same Mote, the Jackie Howe.        If you are wondering who Jackie Howe was, Shame on you. He set the record of shearing 321 sheep in 7 hours and 40 minutes with hand shears. You try that. He also gave his name to blue singlet, traditional uniform of shearer and and other tough alpha males.

 

Warwick is a large town with some lovely old buildings. There is a pub with a nice bistro about 50 meters away. I won't be going far tonight.

 

I am sure you are all familiar with the 'Warwick Incident" of 1917. Prime Minister Billy Hughes was addressing a crowd at the Warwick Railway Station when a man in the crowd threw and egg at him, dislodging his hat. The Prime Minister ordered the mans arrest but the Queensland state policeman refused saying the PM did have authority over him. This lead directly to the formation of the Australian Federal Police force and PM's have been taking their own policemen with them ever since.

 

In the car park of the Jackie Howe

Wednesday 30 August, 2017

 

Warwick - Inglewood - Texas - Ashford- Inverell - Uralla - Walcha

Day 5

 

A very cold morning in Warwick. -2c when I got up. After a brisk walk downtown for breakfast I was ready to face the road. Rather than go straight down the New England Highway, which I have done a couple of times before, I put my faith in the GPS "alternate route" button. It took me west to Inglewood before turning south and heading to Texas. It's not as big as they say. Just after Texas I crossed the border back into NSW and headed for Inverell. I haven't been there before and I was surprised how big it was. A nice looking town with a population of 16,000 (2011). I was impressed and stopped for some lunch and coffee. Very civilised.

Back on the road I continued south heading for Uralla. I didn't realise until later that I was on the Northern End of Thunderbolts Way which I had only taken to Uralla in the past.

 

A short hop from Uralla to Walcha down Thunderbolts Way, a name to stir the hearts of motorbike riders everywhere. After the usual rest and clean-up I found the Commercial hotel for a couple of beers and lasagne and salad. Very nice.

 

Commercial Hotel, Walcha

Walcha artwork

More Walcha artwork

Thursday 31 August, 2017

 

Walcha - Tamworth - Gunnedah - Mullally - Coolah - Mudgee

Day 6

Another very cold morning. Rugged up for my breakfast walk. By the time I left town it was up to 6c. When I hit the intersection of the Oxley Highway and the New England Highway, police had closed of the New England to the north. Fortunately I was going south. I found out later that there had been a car and truck crash and the road remained closed for most of the day.

 

Short hops to Tamworth and then Gunnedah. Not like trips out west where you can go for 200 km before you find a another town. Ever time I go through Gunnedah I look hard for koalas but I have never seen one. Is it really the koala capital of the world.

 

From There to Mullally where I turned south on the Black Stump Way to Coolah.A very pleasant 100km With the tail end of the Warrumbungles providing dramatic contrast to plains. The small community of Tambar Springs was the first sign of civilisation. The town advertises itself as Diprotodon central, and I since learned that a complete Diprotodon skeleton was unearthed there between 1979 and 1984. It was also claims the first monument to world war 1 , built in December 1918. Possibly because the town had the largest number of men per capita enlist in the entire commonwealth.

 

On to Coolah where I stopped for coffee. A lovely little town where my wife's father was born. Not for away is the Coolah Tops National park, which I haven't managed to get to yet, but by all accounts has some beautiful scenery.

 

Black Stump Inn, Coolah

Finally down Ulan Road to Mudgee. A curious mix of open cut coal mines and vineyards down this road before arriving at the beautiful and cosmopolitan town of Mudgee where I find myself feeling strangely at home. Could be all the good food, beer and wine available. Had a great meal at the Brewery and a few of the local brews.

 

Mudgee blooms

Mudgee brewery

More blooms

Friday 1st September, 2017

 

Mudgee – Lithgow – Katoomba – Oyster Bay

Day 7

 

Apparently the temperature git down to -4c overnight in Mudgee. It was still bloody cold when I ventured out for breakfast. House made baked beans with chorizo, spinach, poached eggs and sourdough toast warmed me up no end. Thank you to the Wineglass restaurant.

 

An uneventful trip home, without a stop. Got back to Oyster Bay about 12.45. According to the trip meter I had done 2,735 kilometres over 30 hours and 29 minutes at an average speed of 90km/hour. Nice work if you can get it.

Complete trip

2,735 kilometres in 30 hours 29 minutes, averaging 90 km/h, consuming 17.5 litres of fuel per kilometre.