Time for an autumn bash. I couldn't go past another trip to the Snowy and Victorian alps before the weather gets too cold and snow starts to fall. I have a rough outline of what I would like to do including some dirt. Fate may have other things in store.
Saturday 16th Mach, 2019
Oyster Bay – Nowra – Nerriga – Braidwood – Cooma
400Kms
Day 1 |
There was a prediction for rain and it was drizzling when I left town at a bout 8.30am. It stopped raining after about 20 minutes and things were looking up. New bike, new luggage. Lots of things to check out on this trip.
Packed and ready to go |
The trip to Nowra was boring as usual and it being a Saturday morning meant there was some traffic about. Grin and bare it to Nowra. After that I was off on Braidwood road and enjoying the country side. It became more overcast as I got near Nerriga and the first section of unsealed road. I was in two minds about changing route and sticking to the bitumen. I didn't. The dirt section was dampish but no problem at all. In fact it was probably better than completely dry and loose.
Got to Braidwood and stopped for petrol and coffee and lunch. Great cafe where I found Hummus eggs which was an absolute treat. Decision time again. It looked like it was about to pour and I was heading for Cooma Rd which is mostly unsealed. I really couldn't face Queanbeyan and the Monaro Highway so it was an easy decision. Cooma road was damp but again, no problem. I really enjoy this road to Cooma. No traffic and only countryside to see in all directions. I made good time and got to Cooma about 2.30. The usual drill. Chinese for dinner.
Hummus Eggs |
Sunday 17th March, 2019
Cooma – Jindabyne – Thredbo – Khancoban – Towong – Jingellic – Lake Hume – Beechworth
400 Kms
Day 2 |
Breakfast and on the road by 9am. Heading for Beechworth. Straight to Jindabyne then through the National park to Khancoban where I stopped for fuel and coffee. Once across the Murray I took Murray River road rather than the usual way through Corryong.
Leather Barrel Camp area - Snowy Mountains |
Again, less traffic and great scenery. I stopped at Jingellic for lunch. Found the Bridge Hotel which is where the old bridge used to be, but a bit removed from the new bridge. But well worth the effort. A great little country pub with a nice dinning room and a large out door area which looks over a small caravan park and then straight on to the river. You could really settle in here for a while. They do a good hamburger as well.
Bridge hotel Jingellic |
From the pub, camp ground and then the Murray River |
Pub dinning area |
the bar |
The front door |
Back on Murray River Road which follows the river all the way to Hume Dam. Most of the way there is a large, green flood plan on your right with the river in the middle of it. A beautiful winding road just made for motorbikes. Eventually you get to Hume dam, which is not far from Albury. The GPS then weaves its magic and takes me on some small back roads for the last 50 km into Beechworth.
On a recommendation, I had dinner at the Ox and Hound Bistro which supplied me with a very fine prawn and chilli pasta with a couple of glasses of red to wash it down.
Monday 18th March, 2019
Beechworth – Myrtleford – Bright – Harrietville – Mt Hotham – Omeo – Swift Creek – Ensay – Bruthen – Lakes Entrance
230 Kms
Day 3 |
The plan for today was to go down Dargo high Plains road to Dargo on my way to Lakes Entrance. a predominately dirt road. The weather forecast said smoke and when I investigated that I found that there was a large fire burning near Dargo and the road was closed. Plan B.
Great alpine road through Myrtleford, Bright and Harrietville and then the climb to Mt Hotham. In the past I have struck severe fog on this road and today looked like it was going to be clear. I reached the turn off to Dargo High plains Road and a very large gate made sure it really was closed. By this time I could see a thin fog swirling about. By the time I was 10 Kms from Mt Hotham I couldn't see 5 meters ahead. Very slow, high beam, hazard lights, second gear, follow the yellow line on the side of the road, hope for the best. then some severe winds started blowing me from side to side. Not fun. Passed a few cars pulled off the road to wait. Didn't fancy doing that.
On the way up. didn't look too bad. |
Finally made it into Mt Hotham and the fog was still so thick I could hardly see the buildings on the side of the road and had trouble finding the pub. I found it. Couldn't see the police station across the road. Went into the pub for a coffee and to pass some time hoping the fog would start to lift. I met a guy who had a Harley parked out the front. He was hoping the fog would clear as well. He had been traveling on the bike for nine months and had done over 30,000 Kms. He had to be back in Townsville to go back to work in April.
From Mt Hotham Pub. Nothing to see. |
After an hour or so the fog wasn't lifting so I decided to get back on the road. fortunately, after a bout 5 Kms it lifted enough to be able to see well ahead. on to Omeo, Swifts Creek, Ensay and Bruthen where I stopped for a pie. Still some drizzling rain but My gear was working excellently. reminded me of the saying “there's no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear”. To a certain extent.
Front of Mt Hotham Pub - Apparently there's a police station across the road. |
Got into Lakes Entrance about 3pm. Straight over the road from my Motel is the floating Ferrymans Cafe seafood restaurant. Last time I tried to go there it was full. This time I got in and had one of the specials, delicious Ocean fish fillets. No indication of what sort of fish. Probably shark, but incredibly fresh and extremely tasty.
Tuesday 19th March, 2019
Lakes Entrance – Orbost – Cann River – Bombala – Dalgety – Jindabyne
330 Kms
Day 4 |
The original plan for today was to take the unsealed Barry way from Bruthen to Jindabyne. But it had been raining up there for 2 days. It's hard enough climbing dirt roads up mountains when they are dry, but wet was a problem I wasn't prepared to deal with. Plan B was the Bonang Highway, but this had about 10 Kms unsealed as well so I went straight to plan C.
Morning in Lakes Entrance. More fog. |
Princes Highway to Orbost and Cann River and then Monaro Highway to Bombala. I'd forgotten what a delightful road this was and I had a very enjoyable trip. Stopped at Bombala for hot beverage and then on to Jindabyne along Snowy River Way. Another delightful road through wide open treeless country where some considerable speeds can be achieved as long as you know when the few tricky turns are approaching. A bit of drizzle on and off throughout. I find as long as you are confident you are not going to get soaked, riding in the rain can be very pleasant. Got to Jindabyne about 2.30pm and checked in for 2 nights.
Wednesday 20th March, 2019
Jindabyne – Bemboka – Bega – Tathra – Merimbula – Pambula – Wyndham – Bombala – Dalgety – Jindabyne
420 Kms
Day 5 |
The best part of staying 2 nights is that you can have a nice slow morning with no packing and no rush to be out of your room. After a slow breakfast I was on the bike and headed back down the wonderful snowy river Way towards for Bega. I went down Brown Mountain and this brings you first to Bemboka. Riding into this town is just beautiful. It's a lovely village set in a beautiful green valley of rolling hills and dairy farms. I don't know if they have had recent rain, but today it looked greener than ever. Just stunning.
Snowy river Way |
Snowy river Way |
I kept straight on to Bega where I stopped for petrol and then headed for Tathra. stopped for lunch at the wonderful, historic Tathra wharf cafe. Always pleasant. A few other diners and the usual group of people fishing or just enjoying the view from the wharf.
Tathra wharf Cafe |
Tathra Wharf |
Tathra wharf |
After lunch I headed south down the Sapphire Coast Drive to Merimbula and then to Pambula. I was planning to stop for more coffee here, but it had just started to rain so I pushed on. At south Pambula I turned right onto Mt Darragh Rd and headed up the mountain. More beautiful green country side. More dairy farms. More cows watching my progress. through the small village of Wyndham with its collection of small weatherboard cottages.
Then up the mountain to emerge on the flat and continue into Cathcart and then on to Bombala. Another coffee before the push back to Jindabyne.
Back on The Snow River Way. This is third time in 2 days and I enjoy it more every time. You really can move on this road and I did make the most of it.
Back in Jindabyne just after 3pm. 400kms of very enjoyable riding. Fills in your day.
Jindabyne |
Thursday 21st March, 2019
Jindabyne – Thredbo – Khancoban – Tumbarumba – Adaminaby – Cooma
280 Kms
Day 6 |
The best weather so far as I left Jindabyne. A bright blue sky and about 20c. Perfect riding weather. The second time I had done this track to Khancoban this week, and the familiarity let me relax a little more than usual and enjoy the ride. A few other bikes on the road, some of them coming in the opposite direction pushing their luck a bit and getting a fright finding me half way round a blind corner.
After Khancoban I took Tooma road towards Tumbarumba. Much more open country here out of the National park. Still great motorcycle country and the time and kilometers flew buy and I was in Tumbarumba before I knew it. Coffee and a muffin. Fuel and time to go.
Tooma Road, Snowy Mountains |
Back in to the National park along Elliott way heading towards Cabramurra. Not far along into the park I passed a foal standing very close to the side of the road. I didn't see it until I was very close. Fortunately he stood completely still and watched me go past. There were a couple of farm houses in the area and I thought he must have wandered out of one of those. But a minute or so later I passed a herd of Brumbys wandering up a green creek bed close to the road. They took no interest in me.
Elliott Way takes you down to a O'Hares camping spot on the Tumut River where there always seems to be some campers about. I had a quick stop to use the public toilets. A very pretty spot.
From here you follow the River for a while before passing the entrance to the Tumut 2 underground power station and then climbing steeply up towards Cabramurra. From here on the road is called Goats Ridge Road and it is well named. At the top it becomes The Link Road which takes you passed the turn off to Mt Selwyn Ski Resort and on to the Snowy Mountains Highway. Turn Right here and off to Adaminaby. By this stage the sky had turned a very dark gray and it looked like I was in for a storm. Before long I could see lightning in the distance in front of me and hear the rumble of thunder. About this point I saw a group of moter bike riders pulled over, pulling on their wet weather gear over their jeans and leather jackets. I gave thanks to the god of expensive, waterproof motorcycle touring gear, smiled, and went a little faster. Before long the rain started. It was reasonably heavy, but only for about 10 minutes. After the the sky began to clear again and I got no more rain. Through Adaminaby. I didn't stop as it was not much further to my destination, Cooma.
Half way up Goat ridge road. |
Into Cooma about 3pm for my last night on the road. Dinner at the Alpine Hotel. Crumbed Lamb Cutlets. A Cooma favourite.
Friday 22nd March. 2019
Cooma – Braidwood – Nerriga – Nowra – Oyster Bay
400 Km s
Day 7 |
Breakfast at The Lott Foodstore, my favorite and back on the road heading for home by 8.30am. I was again tossing up using Cooma Road because it had been raining for some days and it looked like it could rain again any minute. I chose the dirt. Couldn't bring myself to go on the busy highway. Cooma Road, once I reached the dirt section, was soggy, but no problem. I did take it a bit slower than usual, but it was quite good. Saw a number of Wallabies out on the road. The only one that could have been a problem I didn't see until I was beside him and then he came straight towards the bike at a fast hop. I was going quite slowly because of the road. But I still braced for impact. I wasn't sure he was big enough to knock me off the bike, but I was ready. Within a meter and half of reaching the bike, he did a U-turn without seeming to slow down at all and then hopped off in to the bush. I didn't know they could do that. And now that I do know I'm wondering why they don't do it more often. Unlike the wallaby I saw a short time later hop straight in front of a 4wd that was going quite quickly, didn't slow down at all, and made short work of the wallaby. There needs to be a U-turn education campaign amongst the macropod community.
Apart from that it was an uneventful trip. Great riding through Braidwood and Nerriga to Nowra. After Nowra it was highway hell all the way to Oyster Bay.
I was home by 2pm. 2,600 Kms all up. Another wonderful week of Motorcycle adventure. The new bike and equipment a resounding success.
Full trip - from GPS locator. |
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