Live in Mudgee. One Night Only.

Friday 18th October, 2013

Katoomba, Rylstone, Mudgee 

My friend Richard, formerly referred to as the gourmet historian, has been keen for some time to go for ride on the bike for an overnight stay. We finally set a date and decided that Mudgee would be an appropriate distance and an appropriate destination. About 4 hours away with some good local wine and restaurants to make the stay interesting. 

Intrepid Travellers full of joie de vivre and ready to go

 

On the Friday morning, the only doubts were the fact that there were severe bushfires burning in the Blue Mountains where we were about to head. We got away about 9.30 on a lovely sunny day and headed west. We had Bluetooth headsets in the 2 helmets so we could chat along the way. 

I had done this part of the trip only a month before so there were no surprises. The traffic wasn’t too bad, but the smoke in the air got heavier as we went up the mountains. 

We arrived at Katoomba in time for morning tea and we turned off the highway and went down to the main part of town. Parking the bike we wandered down the street and were amazed at the number of coffee shops we passed in a very short distance. We selected one and sat down ready for coffee and breakfast for Richard. Afterwards he gave it his seal of approval, and he knows about these things.

Back on the road and off to Lithgow where one of the major fires had already been burning for 2 days. The smoke was heavy over the town. We did not stop, but headed out on the Castlereagh Highway and then on to the Bylong Valley way through Kandos and Rylstone. Richard had been on the bike a couple of times before for short trips and the only issue he had was once falling asleep on the back and nearly falling off going around a corner, so we were both aware of keeping him awake. On this part of the trip at one point climbing a hill and going around a sweeping left hand corner, I made the mistake of admiring the sweeping vista to the right. When I looked back we were heading to the wrong side of the road and there was an oncoming car about 100 meters away. I quickly corrected and I wouldn’t say it was a close call, but I don’t think there was much chance of Richard going to sleep after that. 

We were both aware of a Chinese dumpling restaurant in Rylstone that had been in the Good Food Guide for a few years and we were determined to find it. Richard is reluctant to eat anywhere that is not in the Good Food Guide. While at coffee in Katoomba I had read to him from a review of 29 Nine 99 (the dumpling restaurant in Rylstone {Click here for review}) which went in to some detail of the background of Na Lan and how she came to Australia and opened a restaurant in Rylstone. 

Richard put this to good use. Na Lan came and had a chat to us at lunch and he was able to greatly impress her by asking questions pertinent to her background and mentioning her husband by name. Richard often demonstrates his interviewing skills by having asked a complete stranger 10 probing questions in the time it would take me to say “Hello, how are you”?. 

The restaurant was in a beautiful old 2 story sandstone building that had once been a bank. We sat in a courtyard between the main building and another single storey sandstone building that had been the bank manager’s residence. And the food was fantastic, including a home prepared Chinese style tea.

Dumplings in the courtyard at the 29 Nine 99 in Rylstone

 

From Rylstone it is a short hop to Mudgee through lovely green rolling hills. As you get closer to the town, vineyards stretch out on either side of the road which I think always makes for more exotic scenery. 

We got into Mudgee and checked in to our pre-booked Motel. Not Richard’s choice. He would have preferred the upmarket Cobb & Co which was booked out. He was kind enough not to complain about it too much throughout the night. 

In the Motel. Boots off.

 

After ablutions and a change from the travelling gear it was off to the Mudgee Brewing Company (Click here for website) which had 6 of it’s own regular beers on tap plus a couple of specials. The 100 year old building had been a wool and skin store and the high ceilings, timber beams and large space made it ideal for the current use. All the brewing tanks were down one side of the building and the rest was an open space where beer and food was served. Live entertainment was on several nights per week. 

We started working our way through the beers. In large glasses. Some of which were up to 8% alcohol. Needless to say after 2 ½ hours of that we were feeling pretty happy with the world. After we had tried all the beers and Richard had interviewed a few of the staff we decided it was time for dinner. 

 

The Mudgee Brewing Company. Yeee-Haa.

 

Richard had his heart set on Elton’s a restaurant nearby (click here for website). You guessed it. The Good Food Guide. We had wandered in pre-brewery and he had suggested booking and I said that it didn’t matter because there were plenty of options if they were full. So now, about 7pm we walked in and the waitress told us they were booked. I received some very dark looks from my travelling companion who had decided that this was my fault for not booking earlier.  I was far too full of Mudgee Brewery medicine to be the least bit concerned. So we were out of the restaurant and wandering up the street when said waitress came up behind us to say she had made a mistake and there was a table available. Disappointment turned to elation in a split second. We were in, seated and perusing the menu feeling all was right with the world after all.  Selecting an entrée and main course each, a suitable bottle of local red wine and we deep into the idle chit chat before the food arrived. 

Sunset in Mudgee. En route from Brewery to dinner.

We each had a different entrée, but about half way through, Richard discovered that his Duck Cannelloni and my Crisp Pork Belly and Seared scallop were both surrounded by the same brown sauce. He was able to conclusively confirm this by dipping his finger into my sauce and tasting it. The dark clouds began to appear. 

The main course arrived, lamb Cutlets for one , beef for the other both accompanied by various vegetables. After applying the finger dipping test it was determined that both main courses had the same brown sauce as both entrees. This was almost too much for Richard. The elation had turned to concern earlier and now turned to indignation. The meal (which I must say I thoroughly enjoyed) was ruined. No coffee, no dessert. Let’s get out of here. 

That's a cheeky little number. Elton's. Pre-Brown Sauce

 

So back on the street we found a beautiful old shop that had been converted to a bar/nightclub/restaurant called Sajos (click here for website). We entered, increasing the clientele from zero to 2. The 3 staff members looked unimpressed. We had coffee and dessert and a glass of wine, which probably wasn’t necessary. They had a baby grand piano turned to the wall and covered in a sheet. When I enquired about it a staff member said that they hide it because customers kept trying to play it. I had to laugh because that was precisely what was in my (tipsy) mind. By the time we had finished, two other men had come in, but the staff had put up the closed sign on the front door. Way too many customers apparently.

We staggered on back to the Motel, wisely deciding not to go into another pub we passed along the way. Within half an hour Richard was passed out on his bed and I had a quiet read.

 

Saturday 19th October, 2013

Mudgee, Blackheath, Penrith, Sydney

Richard had already selected the Market street Café (click here for review) for breakfast and this time everything went according to plan. Eggs Benedict all round with local eggs, local ham, perfect Hollandaise and fresh squeezed local oranges. Lashings of coffee for me and Tea for Richard (I don’t drink coffee early in the morning). 

Perusing the breakfast menu. Eggs Benedict I think.

 

A quick walk around the Saturday morning farmers market and it was back to the motel for some helmet modifications and then back on the road. 

We had discussed going on to Orange for a second night, but Richard had some family issues and decided that he should be getting home.

It was a beautiful morning leaving Mudgee. Sunny, blue sky, no wind, not too hot and not too cold. The sort of conditions that make you feel like staying on the bike all day.

When we came down into Lithgow, it was blanketed in Smoke. Fire had been burning for 3 days by that stage and the morning was very still so the smoke was sitting there like a heavy fog. We stopped for petrol and then headed for Blackheath.

 Mt Victoria again seemed to be the closest we got to the fires with thick smoke rising from the valley beside the highway. We found a very nice coffee shop in Blackheath where Richard had his triple shot morning heart starter. It was too early for lunch so we thought about somewhere to stop for lunch before getting home. The last major centre before hitting the metropolitan area was Penrith so we decided we would stop there. This was our one big planning mistake of the trip. 

After the tranquillity and beauty of Katoomba, Rylstone, Mudgee and Blackheath, Penrith was a nightmare. As soon as we got off the freeway we were in a traffic Jam and it was getting hot. We crawled through Penrith to the main shopping centre and went looking for somewhere to eat. Nothing at all in the Good Food Guide, so, much to Richard’s disappointment, we had to make do with a small Japanese sushi and noodle house. We survived.

We made good time after Penrith. At this stage on the M7 was my only moment of panic. Travelling at 100kmh the car in front of us threw up a very large piece of plastic into the wind right in front of us. When I say large I mean something like a double mattress cover. I hit the brakes, although we were too close to it to actually stop. Fortunately we went straight over the top of it and never missed a beat.

We decided a quick beer at the Como Hotel was good way to finish the trip. We drank it talking about where the next adventure might take us.

 

Last beer at the Como. Trophy in the background.

 

The trip

 

What's in a name

If you have been here before you might remember that this blog was called "The Thunderbird and I". At that time my motorcycle was a 2010 Triumph Thunderbird. And a bloody beauty it was too.

The Thunderbird

But since February 2013, my motorcycle has been a 2013 Triumph Trophy SE. Hence the new name. "The Trophy Life".

The Trophy

An open letter to every person I meet who finds out I ride a motorcycle - by Carter Edman - Love this article

Let me stop you right there, mmmm-kay? I can tell by that little intake of breath what’s coming next. Thank you in advance, but I already know that motorcycles are “dangerous.” After nearly twenty years of riding on the streets, I am aware; telling me now will not be a revelation. It is not an insight into my lifestyle that has remained hidden from me until this, the moment of epiphany when you shine the light of outsider wisdom on my foolhardy choices.

There are ways I can minimize the risk — by riding defensively, riding sober, knowing my own and my machine’s capabilities, etc. — but I also know there are some risks that are simply beyond my control. But you know what? There a lots of risks that are within my control. We’ve become so pathologically risk-averse that for most people it is inconceivable to assume any additional risk no matter how much joy you might get back in return. 

You want to know what’s truly dangerous? Not taking any risks. Hanging out with like-minded middle-of-the-roaders. Absorbing the same brain-ossifying shit from media factories every day. Jogging. Putting helmets, flotation devices, and auto-deploy epi-pens on your kids every time they leave the house. Passivity. Not paying attention to where your car, or your life, or you country is going. 

If you don’t get that, that’s OK. I’m not trying to convert anybody, but here are a few tips to save us both a little aggravation:

You don’t need to tell me the horror story about your uncle’s buddy who wiped out his chopper while drag racing at some hooligan rally. That just makes me wish I were talking to your uncle’s buddy instead of you. He sounds pretty cool.

Do not — do NOT — tell me about the time you almost Sausage Creatured a biker because you “couldn’t see him” or he “came out of nowhere.” I have never known a bike to come out of nowhere, but I have seen plenty of cars pull a Crazy Ivan and turn into a lane occupied by a biker or make an impromptu unsignalled left turn in front of an oncoming me. If you’re expecting me to share your outrage at the temerity of bikers to be in the lane you want, you’re more deluded than a goldfish with a passport. I can’t make you see bikes. I can’t make you hang up your phone. They won’t let me mount a .50-caliber machine gun to my bike. So really, there’s not much I can do to change the outcome of your anecdote, so save it for your coreligionists who also have stick-figure families and giant softball stickers with the name “Tailyr” or “Flynn” or “Shyly” on their rear windows.

I do wear a helmet, as a matter of fact, along with other protective gear. But, the fact that you “certainly hope” I wear a helmet is so condescending it makes me want to ride a tricycle completely naked doing doughnuts in your front yard screaming Beastie Boys lyrics at midnight. Trust me, you do not want that. My buttocks are extremely pale and unsightly, especially in moonlight.

Please, do not complain about bikes parking in car parking spaces. Where are we supposed to park? If they let us park up on the curb like in Europe, we would totally do that, and precious few parking lots have motorcycle parking areas. Most cops already have a hard-on for bikes, so parking anywhere but in a designated spot is asking to be impounded.

Yes, I know, some bikes have very loud exhaust. Maybe it’s obnoxious, but at least you knew they were there, didn’t you? They say loud pipes save lives. I don’t know if that’s true, because there hasn’t been a serious comprehensive study of motorcycle safety since 1981, the poetically named Hurt Report. And yes, I know, at one point you probably saw some kid riding his 600cc sport bike at 100mph doing a wheelie down the freeway. He’s a squid, and he’ll either grow up or just take care of himself. Some bikers do crazy things. Anti-social things. Unsanctioned things. I don’t represent him and he doesn’t represent me — that’s the great part of being a biker.  I could be a Lowbrow Weirdo or Antoine Predock or Lyle Lovett or just whatever I want to be.

If you’re really so all-fire concerned about my safety, don’t preach at me. Just do me this one favor:  pay attention when you’re driving. Keep your greasy fingers off your touch-screen, put down your phone, use your turn signals and lay off the booze before you get on the road with me. You take care of your part and I’ll take care of mine.

But hang-gliding, man, that shit is crazy.

Carter Edman is an architect, writer, and rider in Cleveland, Ohio. He teaches “Motorcycles and American Culture” and other courses at Case Western Reserve University.

Nambucca Heads - September 2013

 

Saturday 14 September 2013

Penrith, Katoomba, Lithgow, Kandos, Rylstone, Denman, Muswellbrook

 

My wife has been doing a bit of house sitting again, this time for our ex neighbours who have moved to Nambucca Heads. I had a week off to go and spend some time with her, but wanted to make it a bit of a bike adventure as well. So I decided to take the long way to Nambucca over 2 days, allowing me to see some of the inland towns I hadn't been to before and also avoid the Pacific Highway.

I got away  from home about 9.30 on the Saturday morning and made for the M5 and headed towards Liverpool. No fun here. Traffic everywhere. Great caution required at all times. At Liverpool I got on the M7 which took me up to the intersection with the M4 and left towards the mountains. A lot of Ms I know. Going this way always makes me realise how lucky I am to be so close to the Southern edge of Sydney and to be able to be out of the city in about 10 minutes form my home.

Anyway, up the M4 to Penrith and then up the mountains. I realise that this is the first time I have ever ridden a motorbike up to the Blue Mountains. Unfortunately I will not be doing it again in a hurry. Traffic is constant and speed limits change continually, rarely getting above 80. Occasionally you get a glimpse of a beautiful valley stretching away on either side, but they only last for seconds and don't make up for the riding conditions.

Finally, approaching Lithgow the country starts to open out and the traffic thins. You can now start to ride more freely and take in a bit of the surrounding scenery. I stopped in Lithgow for coffee and to give the old buttocks a break, and then headed into uncharted waters.

From Lithgow I remained on the Great Western Highway for only a short distance before turning on to the Castlereigh Highway to head for Kandos. Just after Ilford I turned right on to the Bylong Valley way. This was to be one of the highlights of the trip. I got to Kandos and decided to stop for lunch.

 

I filled up with petrol first then I rode through town and checked a couple of likely looking venues. I came across a café/motorcycle museum that seemed perfect. I parked and went in. There was nobody else there which should have been a sign. There were lots of things for sale, mainly clothing, motorbike related, and not at what I would call “budget” prices. There was a section of the cafe “walled” off with a heavy black curtain guarding the entrance. This was the museum section and it was going to cost $6 to enter. I decided to check the menu first, which was a good thing because they had nothing that I was willing to eat and I assure you I am not that fussy. With very few misgivings I decided to forgo the hidden treasures behind the black curtain and find somewhere that had some acceptable food.

The Kandos pub had a couple of bikes parked out the front so I thought that was as good an invitation as I was going to get. A classic country pub serving counter lunches as they should. I have been trying to stay off carbohydrates of late and I thought the lamb cutlets and vegetables would be a safe bet.  Imagine my surprise when it turned out to contain a very large portion of chips, two large scoops of mashed potato and a couple of slices of white bread on the side. Needless to say that by the time I had finished the aforementioned items remained and still looked like a sizeable meal. I should add that the lamb cutlets, peas, beans, carrots and corn were very nice.

 

Looking out the front window of the Kandos Hotel

From Kandos it was on to Rylstone. A lovely town with a very large group of motorcycles gathered around the pub in the middle of town. They had the good sense to bypass Kandos and go the extra few kilometres to Rylstone. Too late for me. I was full of food and petrol so it was on to the mythical Bylong Valley.

 Bylong Valley Way stretches from Rylstone to Denman in the upper hunter valley. I have heard that it is a good ride and it certainly lived up to that reputation. The road is mostly very good, a bit narrow and a few rough spots, but generally in good order most of the way.  Much of the 140 kilometres is through a beautiful, fertile valley with some areas having magnificent, dramatic cliff faces on either side. The road winds snakelike along the valley, contented cows watching on from the lush, green pastures. There a a couple of twisty climbs and drops as you cross a mountain from one valley to another, all of which makes for an interesting and exciting motorbike ride. When I left Sydney in the morning, the skies were overcast and threatening, in the blue mountains it looked like it was about to pour, but by the time I  got to Bylong the sun was shining in a clear blue sky. The Bylong Valley is what motorcycle touring is all about. Going a little bit too fast, enjoying leaning the bike through the corners, surrounded by beautiful scenery. What more could you want.

 

On the Bylong Valley Way

The Bylong valley way ends at a t intersection with the Golden Highway which takes me into the town of Denman. I  have heard a bit about Denman from friends who have spent some time here and it is indeed a nice little town.  I found a nice spot for a cup of coffee and had a chat to an older gent also on a bike who was curious to know where I was from and where I was off to. 

 I then headed to Muswellbrook on Denman Road. Before reaching Muswellbrook I could see huge dark grey mountains on either side of the road and I eventually realised that these were the visible signs of open cut coal mines. What they do to the country side does not make a pretty picture. In looking at satellite pictures of the area, these mines are bigger than medium size towns.

Muswellbrook was another lovely old town with some great old buildings. I had booked a motel room here for the night and I was in the room  hitting the shower by about 4.30 in the afternoon. A long soak and lie down to read the paper and I was ready to venture down town. If Saturday night is a big night in Muswellbrook, I would not like to see a quiet night. I had a beer in the RSL Club, a beer in a pub and then found the Muswellbrook Chinese Restaurant. One person in a Chinese restaurant can be a bit limiting, so I try to find one dish to get me through. This night it was the steamed duck combination that hit the spot. A few veggies, a tasty sauce and lots of duck made for a filling dinner.

 

Muswellbrook Chinese Restaurant - another big Saturday night

 

Best pub in Muswellbrook

Sunday 15 September 2013

Muswellbrook, Aberdeen, Scone, Murrurundi, Tamworth, Walcha, Uralla, Armidale, Dorrigo, Bellingen, Nambucca Heads.

 

I decidedly not to order breakfast from the motel, but just to pack up, check out and see if I could find a breakfast venue on my travels. I did. About 2 minutes after I left the motel. In the middle of Muswellbrook, a lovely cafe that did a very tasty cooked breakfast. There were three other motorbikes parked in front which is always inviting.

Back on the road and I followed the New England Highway north. I don't know if was just that it was a Sunday morning, but the road was very quiet. The weather was clear and sunny, about 20 degrees and no wind. Absolutely perfect motorbike weather. I had a wonderful day riding up through Scone and Murrurundi to Tamworth. Lots more cows and some large fancy looking horse studs on both sides of the highway. Very little traffic, and lots of safe overtaking spaces meant that there were very few times when I had to slow down. All systems go. This was lovely country with wide valleys, rolling hills with the occasional dramatic mountain in the distance and rich grazing lands as far as the eye could see. Beautiful.

I stopped for petrol at Tamworth and while I was at the pumps, an older gentleman pulled up on a Honda ST1300. He got off and looked at my bike and said “I've got one of those on order”. I assured him he would not be disappointed.

The Golden Guitar - Tamworth

 

After Tamworth I turned off the New England Highway and on to the Oxley Highway which would take me to Walcha. Last November I went to Walcha then rode south on Thunderbolts way to Gloucester. This time I wanted to ride north from Walcha on Thunderbolts way to Uralla and then Armidale. Walcha is a lovely little town that seems to have artworks (sculptures) all over the place. I stopped here for a coffee. All morning I had been seeing groups of bike riders going in all directions. While having a coffee in Walcha, there must have been 30 or 40 bikes in various groups go past. All heading for or coming from Thunderbolts Way, famous in Australian bike lore as a must try road.

Carved wooden bench - Walcha

Walcha roundabout - artwork everywhere

 

After the coffee I headed north on Thunderbolts Way. I don't know what it is about this road, but there is an overwhelming urge to ride too fast. An absolute rush. This brings you out at Uralla and it is then a short ride to Armidale. This was first time in this part of the country and I was keen to have a look at Armidale, a city I have been hearing about all my life. That Sunday lunch time, Armidale seemed to be having a sleep in. I went down to the city centre and it was very quiet. I was looking for some lunch by that stage, but nothing leapt out at me. Eventually I decided to push on.

At this point I was on Waterfall Way, starting from Armidale. This would take me right through to the coast, just north of Nambucca.

Another great road going through a few smaller towns. Eventually the landscape becomes more and more dramatic as the road follows ridges with the sides getting steeper and steeper dropping away to long winding valleys. This culminates in the town of Dorrigo which sits atop the Dorrigo plateau on the edge of an escarpment which drops suddenly to the coast. Dorrigo is another fine old coutry town, originally formed around the timber industry.

 

Dorrigo Pub

 

Dangar Falls - Dorrigo

 

Dorrigo rainforest skywalk

 

From Dorrigo it is straight down the side of the mountain, along the banks of the Bellinger river and eventually through the beautiful small town of Bellingen, and emerging on to the Pacific highway just north of Urunga. From there it was a quick 20 kilometres into Nambucca Heads.

The next 4 days saw the bike securely locked in the garage while my wife and I spent some time touring the district, including a return trip to Dorrigo and 2 visits to Bellingen. Both highly recommended for a visit.

 

David Helfgott sculpture - Bellingen

 

Thursday 19th September

I had allowed 2 days for the return journey and had a look at the map to perhaps find a different route. But I had enjoyed the trip up so much that I decided to go back the same way. I had great weather and the touring went perfectly. Another night in Muswellbrook, the other Chinese Restaurant and the last day was the run back through Bylong Valley, over the Blue Mountains and home. A great way to spend a week.

 

Pub in Rylstone

 

Admiring the Wallerawang Power Station - Lithgow

Great Ocean Road - May 2013

Saturday 11 May, 2013

Sydney to Bega

 

Click any picture to enlarge

I have been planning this trip for some time and I intend to see a lot of country that I have not seen before. First leg is to Bega. Nothing new here. I have made this trip many times, as recently as January. This first section getting out of Sydney is a bit of chore and I don't really begin to relax and enjoy the ride until after I have passed through Nowra. Not far passed Nowra I had a lunch stop. Spicy red kidney bean pie with mixed salad at Pilgrims Restaurant in Milton is always a treat. All vegetarian, their meals and fresh juices are fantastic. I could easily be a vegetarian if I had access to this food all the time. 

I think the trip down the south coast really comes alive after you have passed Milton Ulladulla. From here on its twisty roads, lots of forests and very little traffic. Great riding. Coffee at the Bodalla Dairy Shed (recommended) and then on to Bega. Just on 400 Kms for the day. I arrived about 3 pm. Checked in to a motel and a quick relax before dinner. There was an older couple in the room next to me. They had travelled from South Australia around the coast. The reverse of my trip. The gentleman was very talkative and we chatted outside for a while. He was a pipe smoker and had to stand outside the room which meant he was there quite bit.

 

Bodalla Dairy shed

Bodalla Pub

I had spent a night in Bega about 5 years ago on one of my first longer bike rides. I was on a Honda shadow and rode down to Bega, stayed overnight (at the same motel) and went back to Sydney the next day. I remember that it was a Monday night that I stayed and I was astounded by how quiet Bega was on a Monday night. Nothing happening. No one about. I finished up having dinner in a pub. I think I was the only diner in that night. I remember walking into one pub, the Bank Hotel, just before 7 pm and the bar man shouted “sorry mate, we’re just closing” as I walked through the door.

So here I was on a Saturday night thinking Bega should be jumping on a Saturday night. Na. Nothing. No one. Cafes and restaurants were firmly shut. The pub with the counter dinner was open, but I was reluctant. The Bank Hotel had closed sometime since my last visit. For good. There was a restaurant that offered Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai cuisine. In my experience that many cuisines get a bit confused and finish up all tasting the same. One of the other hotels in town also had a Chinese restaurant which I had considered on the last trip. This time I took the plunge. Four prawn cutlets (we make ourselves) followed by stir fried fish with ginger and shallots. If they make the prawn cutlets themselves they might as well buy some frozen cutlets. The fish wasn’t bad. I thought the chance of fresh fish in Bega was pretty good. For anyone familiar with country town Chinese food (in a pub) it was pretty much exactly what you would have expected. At least I went back to the motel with a full belly. My Neighbour was out the front sucking on his pipe and up for a chat. He and his wife had been to the bowling club for dinner. “Not bad” was the verdict. The beer and wine must have been good because he had a lot of trouble standing up without leaning on his car. I made my excuses as soon as propriety permitted and went into my room and locked the door.

 

Bega - house on the hill

Bega

Bega - early morning fog. hoping for a cafe to open.

I was way too smart to order breakfast from the motel thinking that the cafe downtown would be open for breakfast. It was Mother's Day after all. 7.30 the next morning I was out walking the streets in vain. Nothing. Well, the Bakers Delight was open and I finished up with an apple custard scroll and a nice cup of International Roast instant made in my room. It was a very foggy morning but by 8.30 there was nothing keeping me in Bega any longer.

I should mention before leaving the subject that my mother was born and raised in Bega. I know I was there as a small child (vague memory) and I have been there three times as an adult. There is none of my mother’s family left there anymore. I always feel like it should be important to me, but it’s hard to get too involved. Maybe if there were some restaurants open some time.

Sunday 12 May

Bega - Eden - Mallacoota - Cann River - Orbost - Bairnsdale - Sale

 

Thick fog as I left Bega, so it was a slow trip out of town. I was expecting the fog to lift slowly as I travelled, but instead I just seemed to ride out of it all of a sudden. One second I was lucky to see 100 meters and the next it was a clear sunny day. Weird.

I was still looking for a proper breakfast after my experience in Bega. I called into Eden and had a choice of cafes for breakfast.  I went down to a lovely spot next to the wharf where all the fishing boats moor on Twofold bay. A choice of cafes. Breakfast was quickly sorted.

 

Eden for breakfast

Eden is the furthest south I had been before so from here on was all new territory for me. Not far south of Bega I crossed the border into Victoria. Great roads. Forests. Occasional scenic views down long green valleys. Virtually no traffic (and no police men) at all. I had a lovely time. The Trophy has been designed from the ground up for long distance travel and it does it beautifully. Comfortable position, plenty of information and loud music. It is an experience cruising through forests of tall timber trees with no other cars and Led Zeppelin blaring at you from the speakers in the dashboard. If there were any tree huggers in the forests they would have been horrified, but I was having a ball.

Just over the border I turned off the highway and went into Mallacoota on the coast. A wild and twisty road to get there but a magical spot.  Just stayed long enough to take a few photos and eat a banana.

 

Mallacoota

I had a quick stop at Cann River for coffee and ablutions. A very small town with several coffee shops and at least two pie shops. A travellers delight.

 

BSA outside a Cann River Cafe

Cann River

Next stop was Orbost, which seemed to be a very old country town with a huge pub. I had been thinking about the pies since I left Cann River and wouldn’t you know it, Orbost had a pie shop to. Quick lunch stop. It had been very sunny so far, but now the clouds were rolling in. Didn’t seem to be any rain in it so no concerns so far.

 

Orbost - huge pub.

The forests had turned into farming country now which was beautiful and green with lots of cows. Very pleasant riding. The next major town was Bairnsdale. I had heard of it but knew nothing about it. I was amazed at the size. It was a lot bigger than I thought with some beautiful old buildings. Have to go back there one day. I wanted to push on to Sale And i arrived there about 4 pm. 450 Kms and the beauty of the Trophy is that after doing that many Ks I am not totally wasted. Booked into the Midtown motel, bought a bottle of wine and typed up these notes. Shower and dinner to come. Yeeeeha.

Had a walk around Sale looking for dinner.  One pub was too quiet. Another was too busy. Jack Ryan's Irish bar and grill was completely empty. After going around a couple of blocks I found an Indian restaurant that was about 2/3 full. I ventured in. It was licensed so I was able to have a beer while I perused the menu. The Mother's Day special menu that is. They had a fish curry with lemon and ginger which I ordered with rice and raita. The curry was superb.  Fresh, tender fish pieces with an assortment of vegetables and a mild flavour of lemon and ginger. I really enjoyed it and I was surprised. That's the city snob in me that never thinks I'm going to find good food out of the metropolitan area. I love being proved wrong about that.

 

Sale at night - pub 1

Sale pub 2

Sale - clock tower

Monday 13 May

Sale, Yarram, Leongatha, Sorrento, Queenscliff, Barton heads, Torquay, Anglesea, Aireys’s Inlet, Lorne, Apollo Bay.

 

Breakfast at the motel this time. Once bitten. Got away from Sale about 8.30. Light drizzle of rain.  Headed south to Yarram and then on to Leongatha. Beautiful country. Like the English countryside (what I've seen of it on TV). Very green, very lush, a few hills and lots of fat cows. Absolutely beautiful. Good roads. Not much traffic. I did pass a police car which surprised me because they are a bit sneaky in Victoria. Very dull colors so you don’t realize its a police car until its too late.

Finally made my way through a lot of built up area to get to Sorrento on the Mornington peninsula. A very pretty place. Port Philip Bay on one side and Bass straight on the other. I arrived at the car ferry just as a ferry was docking so I only had a ten minute wait till the cars unloaded and then my group were on. I was the only bike on the boat. It was only about half full. $35 to take the bike across the bay. Very cheap to avoid having to go through Melbourne. The ferry was very comfortable with a large Lounge area upstairs with a cafe, TV and a children's play area. A 40 minute ride. Just time for a coffee, sandwich and a phone call to check in at home.

 

Car ferry docking

Lounge on the car ferry

Trophy on the car ferry

Once on the other side in Queenscliff I started following signs pointing to the Great Ocean Road. This took me first of all through Barwon Heads. The Barwon Heads bridge is famous for being used as the bridge in Seachange that connects the fictitious Pearl Bay to Port Deakin. It is certainly recognisable.

From there it is another half hour to Torquay which is the start of the Great Ocean Road. From Anglesea you start to enjoy some of the ocean views then on to Aireys Inlet. These are very pretty towns. But the trump is Lorne. Now, all of my adult life I have been hearing people say “ oh Lorne is beautiful” to the point where I really didn’t care. But, Lorne is beautiful. A great setting. A nice mixture of trendy looking shops and restaurants and beautiful old buildings to add touch of class.

 

On the Great Ocean Road

By this stage the rain started again. The temperature was down to about 12. I was determined to make it to Apollo Bay for the night and I only had about half an hour to go. Fortunately I had all the wet weather gear on and a few layers underneath to keep out the cold. So despite the weather, I was still enjoying the ride and fabulous scenery. Only saw one other bike silly enough to be out on a day like this.

Made it to Apollo Bay about 4.30pm. 440 kms. Turned into a motel that was near the middle of town and booked in to a room that has a spa and gas log fire. Perfect for warming up and drying out. Found dinner at the Apollo Bay Hotel. Catalan seafood stew. Very nice.

 

Apollo Bay Hotel for dinner

Tuesday 14 May

Apollo Bay, Cape Otway National Park, Port Campbell, Warrnambool, Port Fairy, Heywood, Mt Gambier.

 

All night in Apollo Bay the wind howled and the rain poured. By morning it was still pouring and I had to wait til about 8am for a break in the rain before venturing out to find breakfast. I found “The Bay Leaf” which I thoroughly recommend. Homemade baked beans, poached eggs, chorizo, tomato jam and goats cheese on Turkish bread and two very good cups of coffee.

 

Car park of the Apollo Motel - wet morning

But the time I suited up and loaded the bike the rain was only very light so I took my chance and set off. The first section took me through the Cape Otway National Park which was stunning. Tall forests packed with ferns. Unfortunately the rain never stopped, but sometimes got heavier, the temperature dropped to 6 degrees and on the top of the mountain there was a very thick fog. I will never understand how people can drive through a thick fog, some quite quickly, and not think to themselves that it would probably be a good idea to turn the headlights on.  But then, all along the Great Ocean Road there are signs saying “Drive on the left in Australia". The thought of going around a corner in thick fog and meeting a car on the wrong side of the road and without headlights on could keep one awake at night.

Just before Port Campbell there is a car park and viewing platform for the 12 Apostles. It was still raining but I couldn't go past without having a look so I parked the bike and took the walk under the road and down to the viewing platform

 

Trophy in the 12 Apostles car park

Under the Great Ocean road to the viewing platform

And suddenly, there it is. Wow.

Zoom lens working well

Yes, there are tiny little people on top of that bit.

Photos do not do the size justice.

This is truly an amazing place and the scenery is breathtaking. Just a pity it was a freezing wind and rain. Back on the bike.

As I approached Port Campbell, Warrnambool and Port Fairy, I thought each time that I would stop for a break. But each time I entered one of the towns the rain seemed to get a bit heavier and I thought , bugger it, I’ll keep going. Stopping in the rain gets you much wetter than staying on the bike and continuing to move. So I went through each of these towns, hoping that there would be a break in the rain. For most of this part of the journey the thermometer was fixed on 10 degrees and there was a howling crosswind blowing from north to south which made my right hand side much colder than the left.

Eventually there was nothing left between me and Mt Gambier so I decided to press on. About 50 kms before Mt Gambier, I came across a road works site that stopped the traffic. Once we got the green light I found myself riding in about 2 inches of very soggy, slippery mud. I had to take it very slow with my feet down. I had a few slidey moments but made it through. When I did get to town and got off the bike I found that the bike and my boots were caked in thick yellow mud. Very unpleasant. Couldn't even read the number plate.

Coming in to Mt Gambier, both sides of the road were covered in forests grown by the timber industry. Thousands of trees in various stages of growth. Whole acres of trees no more than 25 cm high, next to acres of trees 30 meters high  and then acres of trees 10 meters high. On the edge of the forests I saw several groups of emus who had just popped out of the trees to graze on the grass next to the road.

Finally into Mt Gambier and found a pub. I had been on the bike for 4 hours and covered 350 kms with only a brief stop for some photos of the 12 Apostles so I was hungry, weary and in need of a men’s room.

Getting off the bike I realized that my boots and the bottom of my rain pants were yellow with thick mud. I didn’t think the pub would be welcoming me with open arms. Fortunately all the gear was waterproof so ran it under a tap which got most of the mud off and , given it was a dimly lit pub, let me get away with it.

Over a steak for lunch (I've had a lot of fish lately) I decided that if it had stopped raining by the time I finished lunch I would press on to Robe, another 130 Kms on the south Australian coast. As it turned out, it was  pouring rain when I went back outside, so I rode about half a kilometre down the  road til I found a decent looking motel where I checked in and had a very long hot shower.

This will be as far west as I am going to go. Tomorrow I start heading east towards home.

 

The Blue Lake. It's in Mt Gambier. Apparently.

Wednesday 15th May

Mt Gambier, Casterton, Hamilton, Dunkeld, Ararat, Avoca, Maryborough, Castlemaine

 

Still very overcast as I left Mt Gambier. About 12 degrees. Much more open country here. Long straight roads which allowed me to make good time. Went through Casterton which had some beautiful old buildings, especially the pubs. I noticed these Victorian towns take their race courses very seriously. They all seem to have one and they look very well maintained and utilized.

Started to get into hilly country, not realizing til later on that this was the southern tip of the Grampians. Lots of hills, deep valleys, not a lot of timber and extreme cross winds. A bit of drizzle through this area and the roads were certainly too wet to really open up on the sweeping corners. Caution all the way.

Around this area, in the high wind, I found that if I were leaning into a right hand corner and wind gusted from my left , the bike would suddenly dip further in to the lean, increasing the existing lean angle by about 10 degrees. The first time it happened almost required an emergency change of underwear. But once I worked out what was happening I was able to allow for it and control it better. But not a pleasant experience.

A Quick stop at Dunkeld for coffee. I was unfamiliar with this name and at first I was placing the emphasis on the first syllable so that it sounded like I was describing a biscuit that had been dipped in a cup of tea. After reading that it was originally the name of a well-known Scottish town I realized it would be Dun Keld. Equal emphasis.

 

Dunkeld. the beautiful mountain behind is obscured by clouds.

The rain had pretty much stopped by now as I made my way to Ararat. Another town with a good dose of historical buildings. A place that deserves more time to explore, especially J Ward, Australia's first purpose built asylum for the criminally insane. Opened in 1859 and closed in 1991, it is now a museum and i’ll have to go back and have a look at it one day.

On through Maryborough and Avoca and finally in to Castlemaine about 2pm. Another lovely old country town. Victoria seems to have done a better job than NSW at keeping its historic buildings. Especially in these gold towns where wealth came quickly and in great volume and allowed very impressive buildings to be built very early on in the towns formation. Castlemaine is a great example of this.

Scenes from Castlemaine

After another long hot shower, I had plenty of time to wander around the centre of the town and soak up some of the atmosphere. Unusually, there didn’t seem to be many pubs about. Some older buildings looked like they may have once been pubs, but have since been converted to restaurants, accommodation etc. All in all, a beautiful old town with some great buildings

Thursday 16th May

 Castlemaine, Bendigo, Heathcote, Seymour, Benalla, Glenrowan, Wangaratta, Beechworth. Yackandandah, Wodonga

 

A good night in Castlemaine, after some dinner at a small Mexican restaurant, it was an early night. The morning saw overcast skies persisting, but at least it wasn't raining. Still cold though, 10 degrees.

I went straight through Bendigo just to the north of Castlemaine, but it left a big impression. When I did get to the centre of the city I was blown away by the huge, grandiose buildings, central square and statues. It is mnore like a large European city  than country Victoria. The signs of early gold wealth were everywhere. I have included some photos here, but none of them capture the grandeur of the centre of Bendigo.

 

Bendigo

I then headed south again to go through 2 small towns, Heathcote and Seymour. Both pretty towns. The roads at this stage were minor country roads in good condition and I was able to make very good time. Very little traffic and not a policeman in sight.

From Seymour I finished up on the Hume highway which was no fun. 4 lane divided highways are very boring on a motorbike and bring on fatigue faster than any othe conditions I know. so I got off the free way to venture through Euroa first and then Violet town where I stopped for coffee. Another quick stretch of the Freeway and then off into Glenrowan, the site of Ned Kelly's last stand. There's no mistaking you are in Kelly country. The whole town is like a shrine to Ned and his capture. I did the pilgrimage walking around the signposted points of interest. From the site of the Inn which burned down at the final siege, to the site where Ned fell and was finally captured.

 

Glenrowan Hotel

Glenrowan motif

Site of the Glenrowan Inn - Kelly siege.

Site of Ned's capture. Surprised to see him still there.

Then through Wangaratta and a detour down to Beechworth. I was making good time so I stopped for a look around Beechworth, including a coffee and a pie at the famous Beechworth bakery. Another beautiful Victorian town and autumn had the leaves changing colour which is always the best time to see these places. I also had a quick stop and wander through Yackandandah, about 20 kilometres from Beechworth and similar but smaller town. The roads around this area are a motorcyclist's delight. Hills, corners and beautiful scenery. Although this day was damp and very cold, that could not diminish the enjoyment of the ride.

 

Beechworth

Beechworth Bakery

Beechworth

Beechworth

Beechworth

From Yackandandah it was a short ride to Wodonga where I was staying with my brother for the night. A light day's travelling at 370 Kms.

 

Yackandandah

Friday 17th May

Wodonga, Gundagai, Yass, Goulburn, Sydney.

 

A very cold morning in Wodonga. I was off and running by 9am. This was not only the longest one day trip of the week, but also the most boring and probably the coldest. The whole trip was on the Hume highway. Very boring. I started to feel cold and tired within an hour of starting. It is amazing how I can go for hours on a small country road without feeling tired, without being bothered by the cold. But as soon as I am on the freeway I'm in trouble. I had to make a few stops. Tarcutta for a hot chocolate, Yass for Lunch and Marulan for petrol, even though I didn't really need it. I got home about 3.30 pm after 550 Kms. A very tiring day.

All in all, I had a fantastic 7 days and saw some beautiful country. The Trophy performed exactly as the glossy brochures said it would. I could not have managed the kilometres in the nasty weather on any bike I have had before. The Trophy was perfect with it's weather protection, easy cruising motor with plenty of torque when required, plenty of luggage space and lots of loud inappropriate music. What more could you ask from a motorbike.