Great Ocean road to Robe

Victoria and the Great Ocean Road.

 

It had been a while. When I thought about where to go, the Great Ocean road wasn’t my first thought. But once I had it there was no going back. My first bike trip on the GOR it rained nearly all the way and my plan to get to Robe in SA was abandoned at Mt Gambier. The second trip I planned and went to Portland before turning North. This time I thought I would try for Robe again.

The week before I left I had a terrible bout of flu and spent all day Wednesday and Thursday in bed hoping I could recuperate in time. Saturday morning was decision time. I still had a cough but I definitely felt up to it.

 

Saturday 15th June 2019

 

Oyster Bay - Nowra - Moruya - Narooma - Bega - Eden

 

440 kms

 

Day 1

Set off about 9am, sunny day, not too cold, “the livin’ was easy” as the Gershwins once said. Straight through Wollongong. Straight past Berry and through Nowra. Through Ulladulla and the traffic starts to thin out. My first stop was Moruya for a cup of tea, a swig of cough syrup and a muffin. Actually the cough made itself scarce while I was riding, but reappeared once I stopped. I pushed on a bit further before getting fuel at Narooma. The young Indian Lady in the service station was chatting while the EFTPOS took its time and commented that it was a nice day and everyone was going fishing. She paused and looked at me quizzically and said “don’t you like fishing”? I replied that I was fine with fishing but I preferred riding motorbikes. She thought I was confused.

 

Tea and muffin in Moruya

Then straight on through Bega and in to Eden. Familiar territory. Mine Host at the Twofold Bay Motel even said he remembered me and I think he gave me an upgrade from the standard room ordered. Very Comfortable.

 

After the usual rest and shower I thought I would venture over the road to the Eden Fisherman’s Club. Feeling a bit cold in the Motel room, I thought the club would be nice and cosy. My first disappointment was finding that the good old club Bistro had been turned into a “family buffet”. I didn’t like the sound of that. Never mind, Ill go in and have a drink and check it out. Oh no. There was a large fancy dress party. Attendees scattered about the place. the usual super heroes, comic book characters, movie stars and a few Hogwarts students. I could’nt cope. I left the club and headed across the road to the Great Southern Hotel which was warm and cosy and had a nice bistro menu to choose from. Having chosen the local Ling fillets fried with chips and salad I went to the bar for a glass of red. When I said I was after a glass of red the young bar attendant went into sommelier mode and asked what type I usually liked to drink. “All types” I replied. She then tried to enthuse me with descriptions of a NZ Pinot Noir and for something different a Tempranillo. I opted for the Pinot Noir, foolishly passing up a couple of more promising wines on the list. It was very ordinary. But the fish was delicious.

Eden Fisherman's Club, too many super heroes

Morning in Eden

Eden

 

Sunday 16th June, 2019

 

Eden - Orbost - Lakes Entrance - Bairnsdale - Sale - Yarram

440 Kms

Day 2

A Lovely morning. No fog. Sunshine. But cold. 7c when I ventured out to Ollie Masons Cafe, which was just delicious.

I left town about 9am and headed south. I had all layers on and I was pretty well protected from the cold. I didn’t stop till I got to Lakes Entrance. Time for a pot of tea and another muffin. I don’t think my taste buds have fully recovered from the flu yet. Coffee is not doing it for me like it usually does and I have had no taste for beer.  Perhaps I shouldn’t have been too harsh on the Pinot Noir after all. A beautiful morning at Lakes Entrance and I left there feeling ready to go. A beautiful ride through to Bairnsdale, where I stopped for Petrol, then on to Sale and the last leg into Yarram.

 

Lakes Entrance

Originally Yarram Yarram, it lost one of the Yarrams around 1925. Don’t tell Wagga Wagga. A rich Dairy farming community, the town looks larger than it’s 2600 population would require. Some beautiful old buildings in the Main Street. I had booked into one of the fancy Motel Style units at the back of the Commercial Hotel. They must have been awesome, in 1985. And perfectly adequate in 2019.

 

Yarram accomodation

Yarram

Yarram

Yarram

Yarram

Breakfast in Yarram

Yarram - recommended

Monday 17th June, 2019

Yarram - Leongatha - Sorrento - Torquay - Lorne - Apollo Bay

 420 Kms

Day 3

A beautiful morning in Yarram. Cool, but a sunny blue sky. Found my way to Coffee Food Life for baked eggs which was very good. Hit the road about 8.30 and had a blast on the South Gippsland Highway. A great road through the dairy farms, especially with the early morning sun glistening on the dew soaked green grass, while the dairy cows slowly munched through breakfast. This was a highlight of the trip. The country is just amazing with some great views over farming valleys, ocean glimpses and hills to the north, and every shade of green you can imagine.

 

Unfortunately the fun ended when I struck urban build up through Frankston and down the Mornington Peninsula to Sorrento. Got there about 11.30 and had a short wait till the car ferry arrived. Easy loading process and then a seat upstairs for the 45 minute crossing. Not too rough today.

First in line for the car ferry

 

On the ferry

Once on the Queenscliff side I set off for Barwon Heads and then joined the Great Ocean road at Torquay. Still sunny. A. Bit of traffic on the GOR but nothing like my past experiences. Enjoyed the scenic views on every corner. Some drivers even pulled over at the slow vehicle turn out to let me pass. About 20 Kms from Apollo Bay I came to a roadworks stop which must have been stopped for a while because there were about 20 cars lined up. I wound my way up beside them until I was first in queue and when we got the green light, I don’t think I saw another car going my way all the way to Apollo Bay.

 

I had selected a different motel this time. The Best Western just around the corner from the Apollo Bay Hotel. Great location and a very comfortable stay.

 

I was planning to go to the hotel for dinner, but walking out of the motel I noticed an Italian Restaurant called Casalingo across the road. I crossed and had a look through the window. Looked great. Saw a menu and the first main course I saw was Roast Duck with cherry glaze, wilted spinach and mash potato.  I walked on to the pub, had a beer and checked the menu, but I never stopped thinking about that duck. So back I went to Casalingo and had a great meal with couple of glasses of fine red wine.

 

Casalingo - Apollo Bay

Dawn - Apollo Bay

Dawn Apollo Bay

Tuesday 18th June, 2019

 

Apollo Bay - Pt Campbell - Warrnambool - Portland - Millicent - Robe

 

515 kms

 

Day 4

Predictions for Apollo Bay weather had not been good. Yesterday had been gorgeous, today looked nasty. After a very nourishing corn fritters with smoked salmon, avacodo salsa and poached egg at the Bay Leaf Cafe, I got ready for the ride. My second attempt at getting to Robe on the bike.

 

I left Apollo Bay at 8.45. Very overcast. The first section of this part of the ride winds through the Cape Otway National Park, which is beautiful, but slow going in the wet. The rain started almost immediately. A few heavy downpours, but mostly drizzle. The temperature got down to 9c which was warmer than leaving Yarram the day before. Despite the rain, there was no fog, which I was very grateful for. Last time through here I could hardly see where I was going.

 

I made good time through the park and came out the other side into the wind. Very strong wind and still some rain. It carried on like that through Port Campbell and Warrnambool and I had decided that if it was still like this by Portland I would stop there and abandon all thoughts of robe.

 

I got to Portland, pulled in for petrol and the sun came out. The wind had died down and it was still only 1pm. Do or die, I pushed on to Mt Gambier. Another 100 kms. All went well and just before Mt Gambier I turned on to a minor road with sign saying Millicent. I had full committed to getting to Robe. No wind, but I still had a couple of rain patches to get through, but by the time I got to Robe it was a sunny afternoon. Checked into the Motel with a sense of accomplishment. Finished the day with a very nice meal at the Robe Hotel and discovered Lille Creatures newly brewed stout.

Robe Hotel

The view from Robe Hotel

 

Wednesday 19th June, 2019

 

Robe - Naracoorte - Horsham - Halls Gap

 

360 kms

Day 5

 

Very pleased to wake up to sunshine in Robe after the horrible weather the previous day. Predictions hadn’t been good so I thought I would make tracks before it changed. I didn’t venture out for breakfast, just packed, got in the gear and hit the road. It was about 6c but sunny.

 

I got to Naracoorte about 10am and stopped at a cafe for breakfast. Still only about 10c. I headed through Edenhope and on to Horsham. Clouds gathered, but never got any rain. Stop at Horsham for petrol and then the final push into the Grampians.

 

This is why I chose to stop at Halls Gap. The Grampians are so dramatic. The Wimmera region surrounding them is fairly flat farming country, and there in the middle the Grampians burst out of the ground with incredible huge rock faces providing an amazing contrast. I chose to come from the Horsham side on Mt Victory Rd because it takes you right over the top of the Grampians with some fantastic sights along the way. It is only about the last 20 kms that crosses the Grampians, but they are spectacular.

 

Eventually you come down the other side to the village of Halls Gap which is in a valley surrounded by the mountains. It was back down to 7c and I was very pleased to get into a motel room and warm up a bit. A 100 meter walk to the Kookaburra Hotel saw me very well fed and hydrated for the night.

 

Halls Gap

Halls Gap

Thursday 20th June 2019

 

Halls Gap - Stawell - St Arnoud - Bendigo - Heathcote - Seymour - Beechworth

 

480 kms

Day 6

 

The Country life motel I was in had breakfast available which saved me a walk in the 6c morning. A fairly clear sky. A beautiful place to wake up.

 

Got on the road before 9am, still 6c, and headed through Stawell and on to St Arnoud and towards Bendigo. The temperature never got above 10c all day. Clouds increased steadily and I got a little bit of rain. Nothing to be concerned about. I stopped in Bendigo for petrol and then headed for Heathcote. I was following the GPS directions, but next time I’m sure I can find a better way.

 

It took me to the Hume Freeway at Seymour and then I had 200 kms of very dull highway riding. At least it was quick.

 

Got to Beechworth about 2.30pm and the weather was back down to 6c, where I started the day. Very glad to get into a room with air conditioning.

 

A lovely dinner at the empire Hotel and an early night. One day to go.

 

Beechworth by night

Friday 21 June, 2019

 

Beechworth – Holbrook – Yass – Goulburn – Oyster Bay

 

565 Km

Day 7

Iced bike

 

In the morning the weather ap told me it was -1c. I decided to skip going out for breakfast, stay in bed a bit longer and then hit the road, hoping it had warmed up a bit.

 

When I got out to load the bike I found it covered in ice. The seat, the panniers, the tank. I have never had that happen before. It was still 0c, but I didn’t want to wait any longer to get on the road. Long way to go to get home.

 

After wiping down the seat with a face washer soaked in very hot water, I climbed aboard and set off very wary of ice on the road. To make things worse, about 10kms out of town I struck a thick fog that wasn’t going anywhere. Finally got to Wodonga and found the Hume Freeway, which I don’t normally like, but under these conditions I felt a bit safer.

 

I decided I would stop for breakfast at Holbrook which was about 140 kms. The temperature struggled up to 3c and stopped there. My gear had been very effective at 6c and above, but at 3c I was really feeling the cold. Despite 2 layers of gloves and heated handgrips, my fingers were really feeling the cold. Probably the worst I have experienced.

 

Finally got into Holbrook. Still 3c. Still thick fog. I had a steak sandwich and coffee before venturing back out. Still 3c. Still thick fog. There was nothing for it, but to get on the bike and start riding. Finally as I approached Gundagai the fog lifted and the temperature almost immediately rose to 5c. Much better.

 

I stopped at Yass for petrol and a hot chocolate. It was 6c by then and a clear blue sky. The rest of the trip was gritting my teeth and getting on with it. After Goulburn the temperature struggled up to 13c which felt quite toasty after the morning experience.

 

Got home about 3.30pm ready to put the bike away for a while.

 

3,170 kms all up and apart from a couple of cold bits, a wonderful trip.

 

From my GPS Spot tracker

The full trip

 

High country again again. March 2019

     

Time for an autumn bash. I couldn't go past another trip to the Snowy and Victorian alps before the weather gets too cold and snow starts to fall. I have a rough outline of what I would like to do including some dirt. Fate may have other things in store.

Saturday 16th Mach, 2019

Oyster Bay – Nowra – Nerriga – Braidwood – Cooma

400Kms
 

Day 1

 There was a prediction for rain and it was drizzling when I left town at a bout 8.30am. It stopped raining after about 20 minutes and things were looking up. New bike, new luggage. Lots of things to check out on this trip.

Packed and ready to go

The trip to Nowra was boring as usual and it being a Saturday morning meant there was some traffic about. Grin and bare it to Nowra. After that I was off on Braidwood road and enjoying the country side. It became more overcast as I got near Nerriga and the first section of unsealed road. I was in two minds about changing route and sticking to the bitumen. I didn't. The dirt section was dampish but no problem at all. In fact it was probably better than completely dry and loose.

Got to Braidwood and stopped for petrol and coffee and lunch. Great cafe where I found Hummus eggs which was an absolute treat. Decision time again. It looked like it was about to pour and I was heading for Cooma Rd which is mostly unsealed. I really couldn't face Queanbeyan and the Monaro Highway so it was an easy decision. Cooma road was damp but again, no problem. I really enjoy this road to Cooma. No traffic and only countryside to see in all directions. I made good time and got to Cooma about 2.30. The usual drill. Chinese for dinner.

Hummus Eggs

Sunday 17th March, 2019

Cooma – Jindabyne – Thredbo – Khancoban – Towong – Jingellic – Lake Hume – Beechworth

400 Kms

Day 2

 Breakfast and on the road by 9am. Heading for Beechworth. Straight to Jindabyne then through the National park to Khancoban where I stopped for fuel and coffee. Once across the Murray I took Murray River road rather than the usual way through Corryong.

Leather Barrel Camp area - Snowy Mountains

Again, less traffic and great scenery. I stopped at Jingellic for lunch. Found the Bridge Hotel which is where the old bridge used to be, but a bit removed from the new bridge. But well worth the effort. A great little country pub with a nice dinning room and a large out door area which looks over a small caravan park and then straight on to the river. You could really settle in here for a while. They do a good hamburger as well.

Bridge hotel Jingellic

From the pub, camp ground and then the Murray River

Pub dinning area

the bar

The front door

Back on Murray River Road which follows the river all the way to Hume Dam. Most of the way there is a large, green flood plan on your right with the river in the middle of it. A beautiful winding road just made for motorbikes. Eventually you get to Hume dam, which is not far from Albury. The GPS then weaves its magic and takes me on some small back roads for the last 50 km into Beechworth.

On a recommendation, I had dinner at the Ox and Hound Bistro which supplied me with a very fine prawn and chilli pasta with a couple of glasses of red to wash it down.

Monday 18th March, 2019

Beechworth – Myrtleford – Bright – Harrietville – Mt Hotham – Omeo – Swift Creek – Ensay – Bruthen – Lakes Entrance

230 Kms

Day 3

The plan for today was to go down Dargo high Plains road to Dargo on my way to Lakes Entrance. a predominately dirt road. The weather forecast said smoke and when I investigated that I found that there was a large fire burning near Dargo and the road was closed. Plan B.

Great alpine road through Myrtleford, Bright and Harrietville and then the climb to Mt Hotham. In the past I have struck severe fog on this road and today looked like it was going to be clear. I reached the turn off to Dargo High plains Road and a very large gate made sure it really was closed. By this time I could see a thin fog swirling about. By the time I was 10 Kms from Mt Hotham I couldn't see 5 meters ahead. Very slow, high beam, hazard lights, second gear, follow the yellow line on the side of the road, hope for the best. then some severe winds started blowing me from side to side. Not fun. Passed a few cars pulled off the road to wait. Didn't fancy doing that.

On the way up. didn't look too bad.

 Finally made it into Mt Hotham and the fog was still so thick I could hardly see the buildings on the side of the road and had trouble finding the pub. I found it. Couldn't see the police station across the road. Went into the pub for a coffee and to pass some time hoping the fog would start to lift. I met a guy who had a Harley parked out the front. He was hoping the fog would clear as well. He had been traveling on the bike for nine months and had done over 30,000 Kms. He had to be back in Townsville to go back to work in April.

From Mt Hotham Pub. Nothing to see.

After an hour or so the fog wasn't lifting so I decided to get back on the road. fortunately, after a bout 5 Kms it lifted enough to be able to see well ahead. on to Omeo, Swifts Creek, Ensay and Bruthen where I stopped for a pie. Still some drizzling rain but My gear was working excellently. reminded me of the saying “there's no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear”. To a certain extent.

Front of Mt Hotham Pub - Apparently there's a police station across the road.

Got into Lakes Entrance about 3pm. Straight over the road from my Motel is the floating Ferrymans Cafe seafood restaurant. Last time I tried to go there it was full. This time I got in and had one of the specials, delicious Ocean fish fillets. No indication of what sort of fish. Probably shark, but incredibly fresh and extremely tasty.

Tuesday 19th March, 2019

Lakes Entrance – Orbost – Cann River – Bombala – Dalgety – Jindabyne

330 Kms

Day 4

The original plan for today was to take the unsealed Barry way from Bruthen to Jindabyne. But it had been raining up there for 2 days. It's hard enough climbing dirt roads up mountains when they are dry, but wet was a problem I wasn't prepared to deal with. Plan B was the Bonang Highway, but this had about 10 Kms unsealed as well so I went straight to plan C.

Morning in Lakes Entrance. More fog.

Princes Highway to Orbost and Cann River and then Monaro Highway to Bombala. I'd forgotten what a delightful road this was and I had a very enjoyable trip. Stopped at Bombala for hot beverage and then on to Jindabyne along Snowy River Way. Another delightful road through wide open treeless country where some considerable speeds can be achieved as long as you know when the few tricky turns are approaching. A bit of drizzle on and off throughout. I find as long as you are confident you are not going to get soaked, riding in the rain can be very pleasant. Got to Jindabyne about 2.30pm and checked in for 2 nights.

Wednesday 20th March, 2019

Jindabyne – Bemboka – Bega – Tathra – Merimbula – Pambula – Wyndham – Bombala – Dalgety – Jindabyne

420 Kms

Day 5

The best part of staying 2 nights is that you can have a nice slow morning with no packing and no rush to be out of your room. After a slow breakfast I was on the bike and headed back down the wonderful snowy river Way towards for Bega. I went down Brown Mountain and this brings you first to Bemboka. Riding into this town is just beautiful. It's a lovely village set in a beautiful green valley of rolling hills and dairy farms. I don't know if they have had recent rain, but today it looked greener than ever. Just stunning.

Snowy river Way

Snowy river Way

I kept straight on to Bega where I stopped for petrol and then headed for Tathra. stopped for lunch at the wonderful, historic Tathra wharf cafe. Always pleasant. A few other diners and the usual group of people fishing or just enjoying the view from the wharf.

Tathra wharf Cafe

Tathra Wharf

Tathra wharf

After lunch I headed south down the Sapphire Coast Drive to Merimbula and then to Pambula. I was planning to stop for more coffee here, but it had just started to rain so I pushed on. At south Pambula I turned right onto Mt Darragh Rd and headed up the mountain. More beautiful green country side. More dairy farms. More cows watching my progress. through the small village of Wyndham with its collection of small weatherboard cottages.

Then up the mountain to emerge on the flat and continue into Cathcart and then on to Bombala. Another coffee before the push back to Jindabyne.

Back on The Snow River Way. This is third time in 2 days and I enjoy it more every time. You really can move on this road and I did make the most of it.

Back in Jindabyne just after 3pm. 400kms of very enjoyable riding. Fills in your day.

Jindabyne

Thursday 21st March, 2019

Jindabyne – Thredbo – Khancoban – Tumbarumba – Adaminaby – Cooma

280 Kms

Day 6

The best weather so far as I left Jindabyne. A bright blue sky and about 20c. Perfect riding weather. The second time I had done this track to Khancoban this week, and the familiarity let me relax a little more than usual and enjoy the ride. A few other bikes on the road, some of them coming in the opposite direction pushing their luck a bit and getting a fright finding me half way round a blind corner.

After Khancoban I took Tooma road towards Tumbarumba. Much more open country here out of the National park. Still great motorcycle country and the time and kilometers flew buy and I was in Tumbarumba before I knew it. Coffee and a muffin. Fuel and time to go.

Tooma Road, Snowy Mountains

Back in to the National park along Elliott way heading towards Cabramurra. Not far along into the park I passed a foal standing very close to the side of the road. I didn't see it until I was very close. Fortunately he stood completely still and watched me go past. There were a couple of farm houses in the area and I thought he must have wandered out of one of those. But a minute or so later I passed a herd of Brumbys wandering up a green creek bed close to the road. They took no interest in me.

Elliott Way takes you down to a O'Hares camping spot on the Tumut River where there always seems to be some campers about. I had a quick stop to use the public toilets. A very pretty spot.

From here you follow the River for a while before passing the entrance to the Tumut 2 underground power station and then climbing steeply up towards Cabramurra. From here on the road is called Goats Ridge Road and it is well named. At the top it becomes The Link Road which takes you passed the turn off to Mt Selwyn Ski Resort and on to the Snowy Mountains Highway. Turn Right here and off to Adaminaby. By this stage the sky had turned a very dark gray and it looked like I was in for a storm. Before long I could see lightning in the distance in front of me and hear the rumble of thunder. About this point I saw a group of moter bike riders pulled over, pulling on their wet weather gear over their jeans and leather jackets. I gave thanks to the god of expensive, waterproof motorcycle touring gear, smiled, and went a little faster. Before long the rain started. It was reasonably heavy, but only for about 10 minutes. After the the sky began to clear again and I got no more rain. Through Adaminaby. I didn't stop as it was not much further to my destination, Cooma.

Half way up Goat ridge road.

Into Cooma about 3pm for my last night on the road. Dinner at the Alpine Hotel. Crumbed Lamb Cutlets. A Cooma favourite.

Friday 22nd March. 2019

Cooma – Braidwood – Nerriga – Nowra – Oyster Bay

400 Km s

Day 7

Breakfast at The Lott Foodstore, my favorite and back on the road heading for home by 8.30am. I was again tossing up using Cooma Road because it had been raining for some days and it looked like it could rain again any minute. I chose the dirt. Couldn't bring myself to go on the busy highway. Cooma Road, once I reached the dirt section, was soggy, but no problem. I did take it a bit slower than usual, but it was quite good. Saw a number of Wallabies out on the road. The only one that could have been a problem I didn't see until I was beside him and then he came straight towards the bike at a fast hop. I was going quite slowly because of the road. But I still braced for impact. I wasn't sure he was big enough to knock me off the bike, but I was ready. Within a meter and half of reaching the bike, he did a U-turn without seeming to slow down at all and then hopped off in to the bush. I didn't know they could do that. And now that I do know I'm wondering why they don't do it more often. Unlike the wallaby I saw a short time later hop straight in front of a 4wd that was going quite quickly, didn't slow down at all, and made short work of the wallaby. There needs to be a U-turn education campaign amongst the macropod community.

Apart from that it was an uneventful trip. Great riding through Braidwood and Nerriga to Nowra. After Nowra it was highway hell all the way to Oyster Bay.

I was home by 2pm. 2,600 Kms all up. Another wonderful week of Motorcycle adventure. The new bike and equipment a resounding success.

Full trip - from GPS locator.